But I think I know where an IDI truck is. So, wouldn't that be the best starting point of all the options?

 

Are you looking to do a Cummins swap too Gary?

 

This kind of swap is never cheap, but finding the right donor truck can help reduce the total cost.
Researching stuff ahead of time can go a long way in preventing unneeded expense later on. I spent many months doing research prior to spending a single penny.

I can sort of justify the cost for the conversion, since my engine was about to lay down. A good rebuild would run upwards of $2K, plus I wanted to convert from C6 to 5 speed. On top of that, stuff like the radiator and battery needed replaced anyways, as they were both well past their prime. The diesel rated pieces will be a bit more than I would have had to spend on the same kind of stuff for the gasser, but I would have had to pay regardless.

I didn't go the donor truck route, simply because the engine/trans combo I wanted was never offered together from the factory, plus I scored pretty good deals on most everything I have purchased thus far.


Trying to save money on fuel is not a good reason to attempt this kind of swap. It will take many miles/years to save enough fuel to break even on the cost of the swap.
I know I have said many times that I expect to see MPG numbers in the mid 20's when I am done, but that is not the sole reason I am doing this.
The primary reason I am doing it, is simply because I want to do it, and to prove to myself that I can. The MPG numbers are simply a goal at the end.
It's not my primary vehicle anymore, so I'm not in a rush to do it. On average, it can take 3-4 months to complete a swap like this, since it's almost impossible to have everything needed ahead of time. Some stuff even requires having the swap underway, in order to know exactly what you are going to need and/or insure that it fits as intended.

 

Yes, far and away the best truck to start with. Much less stuff to modify on the truck, in order to become an oil burner, since it was already set up for the fuel.

Curious about this as well.......

 

RW,
I know there is no ignition to deal with but how do you handle the engine harness/cab harness interface?

Are there temperature and pressure sensors available to properly control the stock cluster, or do you have to adapt the Ford sensors to the Cummins engine?

 

Modify the "ignition" wiring to power the fuel shutoff solenoid, rather than the coil. Both need 12V when running, and dropping the 12V will shut them down. Best route is to have the ignition hot wire trigger a relay, which then feeds the FSS.
Rotary VE pump engines also have a manual shutdown lever that can be hooked up to a cable, preferably a locking style cable.

You have to adapt ford temp/OP senders to fit the Cummins block. Cummins temp sender id typically in a larger hole, so a bushing is needed. The OP sender is typically a smaller thread, so a short nipple and reducer type coupler will do the trick.
There are even ways to make a factory tach work.


As for starting with an IDI powered truck. I wouldn't pull out a perfectly good running IDI in order to do a Cummins conversion. Take away the "perfectly good" part, and it's a different story........





Any further questions will be answered, but after a minor delay. Work kinda gets in the way........

 

No, I don't need another project as I have the Bee and probably a '50 Chevy waiting in the wings. But, I was just saying that if someone does want to do the swap then I might know where one is.

 

An IDI truck would be a great starting place for a Cummins swap. The radiator is obviously large enough to handle the job, the fuel system is already in place, and the suspension is ready to handle the wieght since the IDI and Cummins 6BT are on pretty equal terms in the weight dept. IDI trucks are already equipped with dual batteries, so even that aspect is covered.
One downside, the fuel supply line is on the wrong side of the engine bay, but can easily be changed. Heck, the IDI trucks even had a water separator that could still be utilized, as long as it was still good.

I still stand by the statement that I wouldn't pull out a good running IDI to swap in a Cummins. The IDI is a great engine, when taken care of properly. Sure, they have their own drawbacks, such as the pump and injectors typically need changed every 100-150K, and they are very reliant on the glow plugs in order to start in all but the hottest weather.

Overall, they are quite a good engine. I just think the Cummins is even better.

I almost went with an IDI/ZF5 swap a couple years back, as I had found a complete donor truck, with a bent frame and banged up body (road turned, they didn't)..... I just couldn't swing the funding to do it right, so there was no point in pursuing it any further.
I will admit, at that time, I knew almost nothing about the Cummins. Knowing what I know now, I'm kinda glad I passed on the IDI.

 

Talked to the guy at the diesel injection service shop today. The old injectors were toast. He is going to build me a set from cores they have, and new nozzles. I'm looking at around $300-400 for the set, with all the needed install hardware. He did mention that they have new "performance" injectors that would give 30-40 HP gain, but tend to be a bit smokey/hazy in the low RPM range. Cost would be about 50% higher.
We talked about my goal with the swap, and both came to the conclusion that I'd probably not like the performance injectors.


In other news, a guy came into the shop yesterday looking to buy a car the boss has, and he asked about a couple others that were there, including the 02 Focus I recently purchased and repaired. I planned to sell it once the truck was back together anyways, so I shot him a price that amounts to double what I have in it, $2400.
He just called to tell me he is likely going to go ahead and buy it.....
I was actually looking at a set of tires for it last night, as I don't really like the mismatched set that came with it, plus the tag is due this month....... Might just avoid having to pay out on either of those.

Yes, this means there will be even more funds available for swap parts!
On the other hand, I'll either have to start driving the RX7 or dad's truck on that super long (under 1 mile) daily commute, since my son uses the B2300 for his 10 mile (one way) commute......

 

Sounds like things are working out. Maybe you will make Sept 13th after all.

 

I'll make the date, just not sure I'll have this truck back to full road-ready status by then.
The extra funds will help, but there's still quite a bit of work to be done.

Ironic, but the car is actually worth ~$35 more today than it was yesterday, since I filled up the tank last night, with non-ethanol fuel........

I bought it to have a cheap driver while doing this swap. I had planned to sell it later, but the chance to make double my investment in it is just too much to pass up......
Had the car not been crashed previously, resulting in having an insurance loss date listed on the title, it would be worth about $1000 more.

 

Anxious to hear about the progress you are making.

 

I just saw this on craigslist and thought of you. Unless it's just the angle of the picture, the engine looks crooked.

1986 f350 4x4 ford cummins fummins

 

Some things on that one I want to point out... It is sitting about right, otherwise the turbo would be in the a/c box... (i know as I have had to keep a close eye on that... ) The radiator is the Dodge unit I think, at least that is how they sit, but it could be the Ford, with the aluminum top. Factory Dodge is brass. I did the air cleaner a bit different in that I moved the battery to the driver side, since that is where the starter is, used a bolt on the power eyelets for the starter solenoid from the Ford, then mounted the Dodge air box where the battery was. I also shortened the air intake hose so it would go straight to the turbo from the air box. Just some tips that I thought of when looking at that ad.

Hate to refer to a pic that will sooner or later disappear, half way tempting to snag the pic and link it from somewhere a bit more permanent.

 

Yep, looks like it could be a factory 94+ dodge truck radiator. Those are alum core/plastic tanks, and much wider than used in the fords. Could also be from something totally different.
91.5-93 intercooled dodge radiator fits much better..... That's what I plan to use. This way, I can also run stock 91.5-93 upper/lower rad hoses......

Not 100% sure what I am going to do on the battery yet. Would like to go with dual batteries, run a 10ga wire from hot to ford solenoid, and another from there to the starter mounted solenoid. Have heavy cable running across the front to tie both batteries together, and have the starter cable drop from the driver side battery.
Would be simpler to go with a large single, on the driver side, and run a 10ga wire across for the alt feed. Moving the ford solenoid over to the other side would make it easier for the starter wiring, but the main truck feed also comes off it.
A large single battery, in the stock location, would be the easiest, aside from having to run a long cable to driver side mounted starter.......

Of the 3 options, my 1st choice is the dual battery route, and build my own battery boxes and cables.

I shouldn't run into A/C box clearance issues, since the A/C box is inside the dash. Under the hood, there's just the non-A/C heater box. Much more room around it.

Not sure on the air cleaner yet either. My engine has a small turbo (H1C), the inlet and outlet are both 3". I could build an intake tube, and use a decent sized cone-type filter. I am kinda thinking about getting an air cleaner for a 95-97 Ranger, and open up the fresh air inlet to a bit larger size. Outlet is right at the same size as the turbo inlet. Might have to modify the connecting tube a bit though. Then I could drop the K&N from the B2300 into it..... Or just buy one like it.