I have the original dodge pressure hose. As such, it should be pretty simple to match it with a ford hose that fits the gearbox. If all else fails, I'll cut the end off both, and have new hose crimped on to make my own.

I can imagine the block heater makes a bit of difference in sub zero starts. Probably even helps when the temp is around freezing too....
It won't be easy for me to use it where I live right now, due to no outside power outlet, and the small driveway that doesn't work real well with a full size truck. I'm kinda hoping to move in the next few months, and those are 2 items I plan to pay close attention to....

 

I forgot to mention that I went back to the shop yesterday for a short time. I put the flywheel on the engine, simply because there's no better way to keep it and the bolts from getting misplaced. It will have to come back off to change the rear "flywheel housing" as Cummins call it, and while that is also off, I am going to put in a new rear main seal.
Then I moved the engine out of the middle of the bay, so I can have a place to make money during the week. Now that the engine is sitting beside my toolbox, I can tinker with it during down time at the shop thru the week. Wasn't the case, when it was in the back of the truck, under a tarp.....

 

That's a good plan, Stan. That way you'll be able to look it over to answer question that arise in your mind.

 

Rear engine plate/flywheel housing arrived today. I was happy to pay $75 for it. Aside from being a little dirty/oily, it looks good as new where it matters, the bolt holes.

Gary, that intake tube is almost square where the bad words are. Should be pretty easy to mill off most of it, and finish with a grinder, if needed.

I didn't take a picture of it yet, but there's a plate riveted to the engine that clearly states it meets US and Commifornia emmission standards for 1989 diesel engines. Needless to say, that plate is staying put.......

 

Think I am going to attempt upgrading the pilot bearing. Stock is ~1" OD with exposed needles that ride directly on the end of the input shaft.
That dual disc clutch we installed for a customer uses a 1.75" OD sealed ball bearing pilot bearing, and I happened to discover the part number for the bearing, as well as a cheap source for a USA bearing. All I will have to do is get the center hole for the pilot bearing milled out to 1.75 ID, with a depth of .5" to use this bearing.
Sure, I could buy a flywheel that has already been modified and includes a bearing installed, but they want way too much for it.

I like the idea of a sealed ball bearing in there much better than having needle bearings that ride directly on the input shaft. Have seen way too many input shafts get chewed up from those small needles getting a bit too dry and/or contaminated with grit. Kinda like my preference for the sealed ball bearing or tapered roller bearings used on the axles of a 9", rather than the rollers that ride directly on the axle shaft of an 8.8"........

Should be picking up the needed clutch/brake pedal assembly today. Things got a bit hectic at the shop this past week, so there's not much room to get the truck down there this weekend. I have a 5.4L out of an 03 F150, and the heads are at the machine shop (STK, for the locals) for resurfacing. Between that engine, and the truck sitting in my bay, I couldn't get much done on my truck anyways.

Pretty sure I have nailed down the injectors I am going to use. Probably going to order them early next week.

 

Got pedals. The pin where the clutch master rides is a bit worn, but that's easy to deal with.

 

I put an Oilite Bronze bushing on there with steel filled epoxy.

 

I was thinking of braizing it up, smoothing it out, and adding a bronze bushing (like a GM door hinge repair bushing) to it.
That, or getting a small hiem joint to replace the end of the rod, and cut/drill off the pin to replace with a grade 8 bolt/nut, tacked into place.......

 

RW - I'll look tomorrow to see that I do have the boring head and bar to use on the mill. The hardest part is to get the flywheel setup on the mill to be exactly centered under the spindle, but the dial indicator will let us do that fairly easily.

On the pin, I ground the weld off of mine and pressed the pin out. Made a new one out of a G8 bolt, pressed it in, and tacked it. But, then I put Oilite bushings on every wear point. In fact, I may still have some.

 

Hmmmm, I foresee a trip to the garagemahal coming soon...... For a lot of things.

I hope the mill will set the flywheel horizontal, cause at ~75 lbs, it's a bugger to hold upright for very long.......

 

Yep. We will lay it on the table horizontally. Hopefully it is flat on that side so securing it won't be a problem.

 

Fairly flat on the backside. It does have a recess that fits over the end of the crankshaft. Otherwise, it would be mandatory to have 2 people when trying to install the dern thing......

Probably going to be a brand new unit. The truck that the 13" clutch setup came from is back in the shop, and it appears to have the starter spacer. The reman trans we put in, has issues, so we are swapping in a replacement.
That's how I discovered the part number and source for the larger pilot bearing. That bad trans had a burr on the input shaft. It went into the bearing easy, but would not come out. I destroyed the bearing getting it off the shaft, after having cut a hole in the bell housing to remove the pressure plate bolts, so the engine and trans would separate. Had to do whatever was needed to get it apart, and get that new $1200 clutch off the front of the trans.......
The bearing will slide right on the "new" input shaft, but not the old one........ In other words, you could tell it was friday the 13th, even without looking at the calander.......

 

I do have the boring head and a boring bar to fit it. Should be good to go.

And, by the way, Quesey doesn't have any serp brackets from a van. But thanks for the lead anyway.

 

Cool.

Well, I tried.....

He does have a 2wd ZF floor plate and manual trans column though..... Guess I'll be making another trip down that way soon.

 

I bought the new 5th gear nut for the trans, and ordered a new clutch kit with flywheel. I decided to go with a new stock replacement clutch, rather than spend the extra funds to make the used 13" clutch & flywheel work.