With the 351M low RPM torque I used the NP435 in Rusty like a 2-speed. Yes, I started in 2nd, usually, but once rolling it was either 3rd or 4th. No need to go to 2nd unless stopped. And that's with 3.50's. But, with 2.75's it might work more like a true 3-speed.

 

I have been told the gas ZF is actually a pretty good match for the Cummins power band. Can't answer on the 2nd take off, as the 92 is about 8000 pounds and typically is hooked up. It has a 3.54 in it now, when it had the 4.10's it needed both the overdrive of the trans AND the GV unit. The GV unit needs some work, so now it is just the trans and the 3.54, but it does well at that combo.

 

looking at the specs listed in that chart, I can believe it. Very similar to the NV4500 the engine was paired with.


As for the rear axle ratio, I have 2.75 installed, and have 3.00 & 3.25 geared pumpkins that can be easily swapped in. It will be much easier to calibrate the speedo with the latter 2, as I don't think there is a gear with few enough teeth to match the 2.75....... At least, not from dodge. Dunno if the Ford speedo adapter will fit and/or work in the NV trans......

 

I tore into the NV4500 today. No chance of the ford speedo drive pieces working. Not a problem, I know where I can get the dodge stuff to make it work.

The 5th gear nut was a MAJOR PITA to get off. It looked as if someone had used a whole tube of red locktite on it, plus peened it into place, after torquing it to the ~300 LB/FT (and then some) that it is supposed to be tightened to. From the looks of it, they used an air hammer and chisle to tighten it, as there were notches cut into it. This precluded using the special tool for that nut, since the notches it hooks into were rather mangled. Bummer......
I used an air hammer and chisle to loosen it, then had to resort to the old fashioned hammer/chisle method to get it backed off far enough (~2.5 rounds) to grasp with large channel locks and finish spinning it off.
That told me what I really wanted to know, doubtful the updated output shaft had been installed. Confirmed when I popped the gear off.
I stopped at that point, since I was rather tired from having spent 2 hours just getting that nut off. Plus, no chance of getting parts for a couple days, so why scatter it any further.
Will be pricing bearing kits, with and without syncros, as well as the updated input/output shafts. I honestly don't know that I really *need* the updated shafts, or the syncros, but by doing it all now, I know there shouldn't be anything else to worry about for a long time.
Input shaft really should be replaced, since it's a bit rough where the pilot bearing rides, and the 5th gear nut is JUNK. That nut is supposed to be tossed everytime it's removed anyways.
Honestly, I am impressed with how it all looks, considering the truck it came out of was said to have 357K miles on it. I know someone had been into the trans before, but as the boss said when he looked inside it, it's seen a "crap-ton" of miles since then. I guess the re-birth of New Process gear as New Venture shows they already knew how to build em to last........

 

Glad it looks good. It is a real bummer when you buy a pig in a poke and find out its bad.

 

I knew there wasn't any major bearing or gear issues, as I spent quite a bit of time shifting it thru the gears and spinning the input shaft. I have no idea what the syncros are like though, as there's no way to really feel them out without the trans installed and driving.
That's partly why I am tearing it apart. Much easier to do now, rather than once it's installed. Especially since the gear oil for these is nearly $100. Don't wanna buy that twice...... That alone would almost cover the cost of a bearing/syncro kit.

BTW Gary, I was in Tulsa today, and thought about calling to see if you were at home. But, my silly phone decided to shutoff and wouldn't turn back on. Funny how they do that when you forget to charge the battery.... I had left the car charger in another vehicle. Can't remember which one, though........

 

I was home from about 1:30 on. Rusty and I took a trailer and 2 other guys and disassembled and hauled off a huge wood playground unit. Nice to have a work truck.

 

Dern phone. It was about 1 PM when I thought about giving you a ring.
I made a quick run to Tulsa, since a guy offered me a set of 15" wheels, in the uber-rare 4 x 110 bolt pattern that fits an early Mazda, free. Already have 2 sets of those rare critters, but it never hurts to have an extra set, particularly at that price.......

 

I'm sure the tires will help with racing the RX7. Good score.

 

The tires that are on them were pretty good in their day, but they are now 10 years old. Might give them a try anyways, since they still have tread left. Just don't wanna be driving around on them a bunch.......


Haven't been able to contact my usual trans/diff parts suppliers, but looking around on the web at various places, including e-bay and amazon, I've found the NV4500 updated output shaft for around $200, the bearing and syncro kit for around $225, and the updated input shaft for around $90.
I've seen a couple bearing/syncro kits for less, but have to question the quality. The $200 range kits *claim* to have KOYO or Timkin bearings/seals, while the cheaper ones do not specify. I'd rather pay a bit more for parts that are "Made in USA", and know that I have high quality parts, and helped an American workforce have a place of employment.
I guess I'm just that kind of guy.......

 

Timken IS pretty much China now...

They closed down Torrington Bearing's plants here too when they bought them up.

I usually go with *** or NSK if I don't see 'Made in USA' on the bearing itself.

 

And, there are different qualities go bearings. I rebuilt an alternator once with a new, American made bearing from a lawnmower shop. Within 1000 miles the bearing let go and wiped out the alternator. Turns out alternators need a special high-temp bearing. But, many rebuild kits for the 3G on eBay and Amazon don't say they have the high-temp bearing, and their prices are lower than those who do. You get what you pay for.

 

There are different clearances for bearings.

I'd imagine a continuous duty high speed bearing running dry (not bathed in oil or other liquid to carry heat away) would need to start 'loose', in order to have proper clearance at operating temperature.

Internal clearance

 

That makes sense. Thanks. And a tight bearing would grow until the clearance got too tight and then grow even more, and more, until galling started and it all came apart.

So, maybe the alternator I have that rattles when cold doesn't have a bad bearing but one that is just a bit loose?

 

I've never had an alternator last long if it rattled.
Would assume the bearings are worn beyond service limits.

But this is a discussion for the alternator thread..