Unloaded the trans at the shop, and so far, everything checks out good. The input shaft has a little wear where the pilot bearing goes, which I already knew about. I wasn't too concerned about it, since I have a good factory input shaft laying on my toolbox. Came of a trans we rebuilt for a customer, and since the truck was a 3500HD that gets worked hard, we upgraded to the new improved version, along with the updated output shaft. He had already gone thru the 5th gear issue a couple times, and the improved output shaft solves that issue.
I may go ahead and buy a new input shaft, but it's not like this trans is ever going to see the kind of hard use that would be common in a heavier duty truck. Let's face it, this trans is overkill for the truck, but happens to be the cheapest/easiest way to go manual. Heck, it's even easier/cheaper than going with an auto.....

 

Not much progress yet to report. I did get around to digging thru the crate of parts that came with the engine. The injection pump was indeed buried under the pile of wiring. Dunno why, but there was also an injection pump for a GM 6.2L diesel in there. Not sure what I am gonna do with it.....

We need to get some room in the parking lot, so I can begin the actual work on this swap. For now, the engine is still strapped down, under a tarp, in the back of the 74. First order of business, after unloading it, will be popping off the front cover to deal with the "killer dowel pin". Likely put new front and rear crankshaft seals in too, just cause they will be exposed. Same goes for the trans, new seals since it's already out, and check to see if the updated output shaft has already been installed. I suspect it has, as the truck it came out of had 350K on the clock, and it's quite obvious someone has been into it previously.

The pricey stuff that still remains to be obtained, clutch kit with flywheel, and driveshaft. The latter should be pretty easy, once I get the exact length figured out. NV4500 is rather common, and Ford 9" is even more common, as such any DS shop *should* be able to come up with the correct yokes to use off-the-shelf u-joints.

Planning to have a 3 or 4 row core mated to the current end tanks (or similar) in the largest physical size that will fit in the radiator support, modded as needed. Should be plenty of cooling capacity, since this truck won't be seeing the kind of hard work that most diesel trucks are designed for. Of course, that's down the road. During the initial build, I can get away with the current radiator, since it will not be run long enough to need much cooling help. That's the cool thing about a diesel, at idle, they don't build any heat to speak of. They can idle for hours, and never reach full operating temp. On the other hand, start working them, and the heat can build rather quick......

 

I ended up using the 1st gen Dodge radiator on the 92. It is just short enough to fit under the top of the factory gas engine core support, and it solved the issue of hose hookups. Making the mounts for it was stupid easy too. The bottom of the radiator is located by pins in a rubber bushing, so you simply drill holes, and the top was simply a matter of making a bracket to bolt to the factory location and again pin inside of rubber bushings.

 

Interesting. I'll have to look into this.
Dumb question, but was the radiator for an intercooled engine? It appears there is a difference in the radiators used on the IC vs non-IC engines.

 

Interesting, not sure what the difference would be... It is an IC motor, but when I look up the radiator, 89-93 shows the same part number. My application (1st gen) is 91.5 to 94. My donor was a 92.

 

I'm getting mixed results, but most of the non-IC listings show the outlets on the same side, while an IC app shows them on opposite sides.
Both my water outlets point the same direction, right at the pass side, which would support the same side theory. I know the t-stat housing can be changed to a later style with a 180 degree curve to it, in order to point towards the driver side. I just need to confirm the alt mounting hole is in the same location.
FWIW, the 300 radiator has the outlets setup the same as the IC Cummins, top DS, lower PS. The current one is too small (non-A/C) and in poor condition (leaky core), but it will work for testing and short light throttle driving, should it come to that...

Will likely order a clutch kit that includes new flywheel in a few days. Almost $100 cheaper than buying them separately.

 

Both my outlets are on the PS as well. The top hose goes across the top/front of the head above everything. 4BT housings work as well. The 460 radiator had the outlets on opposing sides, with the bottom hose on the DS.

 

 

Yeah, my upper outlet points at the passenger side, but the t-stat housing is easy to replace so I will likely get the later style.
Looks like a snug fit, but very doable.

 

I am considering the possibility of changing something. The recipient......


My boss has a decent condition 05 F250 SD 2wd extended cab, with a 6.0 PSD. He mentioned something about "knocking it in the head" to get the engine/trans for using in a swap project. He currently owns 3 03-05 super duty trucks, 2 that are 6.0 PSD powered, and 1 that used to be but now sports a 12V Cummins. He is talking about selling the Cummins powered truck......

Back to the point. The truck he is thinking about disassembling really doesn't have anything wrong with it, beyond the common 6.0L "ticking time bomb" issues, and an injector that is "lazy" on a cold start.
If I could get a real good deal on the rolling chassis, I might be tempted to drop the cummins/NV4500 into it instead of the 80 F150. Granted, it's a bit heavier truck, so the MPG may not quite as good, but it would allow for doing even more work than the lighter F150 could handle.
I do prefer the looks of the older trucks, and their simplicity. But, given the chance to get a killer deal on a later SD chassis/body that is "swap ready", I'd almost have to be stupid to not go for it. Even with 250K+ on the clock........

 

The 92 had 227,000 on it when I dropped the Cummins in it... It has over 350,000 on it now and those are hard worked miles. I have the trans out of it right now as the clutch disk was in pieces... The pilot bearing failed, and being how my sister and brother in law are, they didn't stop running it until it went boom. I just hope the end of the input isn't torn up too much.

 

Would the swap be easier in the newer truck? Seems like you have most details worked out for the swap into the '80, but would you have to start over?

On the other hand, you could build the 300 up in the 80. But, then you have multiple trucks. Would you ever sell the 80?

 

Yeah, those cummins engines will live a long life when worked hard. So long as the killer dowel pin doesn't pop out.....
The input shaft is relatively cheap, and quite easy to replace, so even if they did FUBAR it, it's not that bad....
Not sure about how easy the swap is on the newer chassis. Since the boss already did it, he can 'splain it to me.....
Of course, I actually gave him a few ideas on making it better, even after he had it running/driving. I think the reason he is talking about selling it, has to do with the 12V Cummins and Torq-shift 5 speed auto not being the greatest combo, and he still hasn't gotten a *working* program to run the trans *correctly*.....
I doubt that his recent purchase of an almost identical truck to what he started with, but shortbed, with barely over 100K on it has anything to do with him wanting to sell the crew cab long bed converted to dually, that won't even fit into a "drive-thru" car wash.......


I have thought about building the 300, and backing it with a 5 speed for many years.

Not sure if I will be changing recipients, just a thought that popped up after hearing him say something about knocking that truck in the head. This was late friday afternoon, and I thought about maybe trying to talk him out of the chassis yesterday, on my long drive home from a day of rallycross action in Miami OK.......

 

I took care of the KDP a while back, mine hadn't budged but I took care of it to make sure.

In some ways the newer ones are easier, in some ways they aren't. When it comes to manual pedals, it might be a bit more of a challenge.

 

I would think through the swap in detail, including going up on that board to see what they say. And, I would think about what I really want when the dust settles or why I'm doing it:

• How many trucks do I want to have? (One for show and one for work is a good number.)
• Could I sell Dad's? (Not possible.)
• Could I sell the '80? (Not likely, but maybe.)
• Could I sell the one I just swapped? (Are you crazy?)
• What do I really want to drive? A hot 390? A cool six? A diesel swapped into an 80? Or a diesel swapped into a newish truck?
• What is the drive to swap in a diesel? Coolness? Low operating cost? The thrill of doing it? The uniqueness of the finished product?