I was thinking the motor plates at minimum. I do have a pedal set loose, although they seem to be for the old direct linkage. I could also get a the trans tunnel cover that way as well.

 

Mount plates would be a good start.

 

A good customer (1M+ 24V guy) called today, asking if I would be interested in a complete, running 97 Dodge 4500 2wd (solid front axle) with 12V and auto trans. Price is decent. He said he thought about buying it, but he just dropped $14K for a new 24V engine in his truck.
I am tempted, that's for sure. I certainly don't NEED a truck that heavy duty, but you never know. It would make a good hotshot rig, and I've considered getting into doing some of that type work.
I took the guy's name and number.......

 

Another project!

 

The guy I bought the engine from came in a few days ago, and says he has a line on a NV4500, complete with new flywheel and clutch. It's a 4wd trans though. If the price is right, and it comes with the transfer case, I might just jump on it. I can always swap in a front drive axle later.
The trans is still in a truck that got crashed, he's trying to get the engine/trans, as they only have ~98K total miles.

I would hate having to break open a trans with that low miles on it to convert to 2wd, but if it comes down to it, and the price is right without the TC, I would.

Of course, I could just rebuild the NV5600 we pulled out of the 1M+ 24V truck. It came in over the weekend with trans issues. We knew it was gonna happen, just not how soon. Been jumping out of 5th for over a year. He had dropped off another trans for us to rebuild, so it could be swapped in before the old one gave out. It just went faster than anyone expected. Broke the gear on the front of the countershaft, where it meets the input shaft gear. Same thing happened with the one we were rebuilding...... Might be a pattern there......

 

What transfer case does it take?

 

Not sure. Pretty sure it uses a different bolt pattern than Ford cases do.

 

I thought so as well. And probably a different spline in the input. Just curious.

 

A good option here would be to make a custom range box (doubler) and tail shaft.

I'm sure there is a version of an aluminum cased chain drive transfer case on par with the BW13-56 that bolts up to that tranny. I only know details on the 13-56 as that's what I have and have looked into but I consider it a safe assumption. Many people make range only boxes out of 13-56s, they simply remove the chain, cut the case portion off that you don't need at one of the ribs to use as a seal surface and seal it up often by welding or bolting on a plate. Other then the removal of the 4wd portion the case stays stock except you have to fill it a little higher. This is most often done to make a double transfer case for a double low range but no reason ya can't just leave the tail shaft housing on instead of adding another transfer case.

This will basically create a tail shaft for you that should have the right kind speedo drive to connect your stock speedo and give you the bonus of a low range.

Edit, did a search and found people doing that with the NV231 case.

 

Nah, I won't be modifying a transfer case to make a range selector. It would function in the same manner left alone. Since 94+ dodge uses a driver side drop case, like a Ford, I could easily swap in a TTB (or solid, with fabrication) and go 4wd. Unlike a dodge, I would have the option of low range, without having to worry about driveline binding on hard surfaces, since the front axle would still have locking hubs. I just don't understand Dodge/Ram thinking, having the front axle ALWAYS locked, even when not wanted/needed. Seems like a good way to cause excess wear in the front drive unit, and waste a little fuel at the same time.

 

Been a while since I posted anything here.
Picked up the engine, 89 5.9L non-intercooled Cummins, a couple weeks ago. Still loaded in the back of the 74, under a tarp, on a pallet.
Picked up a NV4500 from a 97 2wd 3500 today. Still loaded in the back of the B2300, on a pallet.
Getting a trans from a 94-97 2wd was always my goal, since they have a speed sensor/mechanical speedo drive in the tailhousing. This went away in early 98, when the 12V engine was replaced with the computerized 24V. Simplifies making the speedo work.
Got kinda lucky, as the salvage yard cut the reverse light wires, rather than unplug the pigtail. They also left the slave and new clutch fork on/in the bellhousing. External slave, easy to change should it fail. The clutch fork, currently installed upside down, can wear and or bend over time, causing the clutch to not fully disengage.
I didn't get the full shifter assembly, just the stub. Not important, as I can make my own shifter handle.....
Heck, they even left the trans mount on it, not that I really need it, but the plate that goes between the trans and mount was something I hoped to get.

I still have stuff to gather up, but the big stuff being here will allow me to get started on getting it in place and fastened down. I can put the engine and together even without the flywheel and clutch, to mock up and fab the mounting and do any firewall/floor mods needed to make room for them. Having a non-A/C heater, and dealer added A/C (all contained inside the dash) should give me plenty of room for the turbo and exhaust.

Starter will be on the drivers side. Will be making a dual battery setup similar to how dodge and ford both did on their diesel trucks. Run a large Ga cable from pass battery to driver battery, then down to starter. Come off the pass battery with another lead for the alt and Ford fender solenoid. From the solenoid, run a ~10ga wire to the "start" side of the cummins starter. The cummins alt is an external regulated unit, and it was originally regulated by the PCM. Simple to wire up the ford regulator.
Factory gauges will also be simple, just put the stock ford senders in the correct locations on the engine, and hook up the wires.
Radiator and core support will require some extra effort, but foregoing the intercooler (at least for now) will make it easier, though I plan to allow room for an intercooler for future upgrade.

Will need to come up with a set of pedals for hydraulic clutch, and brace the firewall for the master. Beyond that, should be pretty simple. I'm told the ZF master and line will hook into the NV4500 slave as if it was made for it, and works great.

I am short on funds again, so it will be a few weeks until I can buy any more parts. But, I can at least get the ones I do have installed, and fab what I can in the meantime.

 

You are going to be driving it long before I'll drive Dad's. Way to go!

 

Well, I do hope that I could drive it to the next fall GTG @ Gary's. Anything prior to fall, is a bit over optimistic.......

Kinda torn on something. Cummins painted these early engines black. That just won't do. Newer engines are red, and that color just looks "right" for the engine. But, the truck is red......

Red on a Cummins looks as right as blue on Ford. I just don't want to overdo it, if you know what I mean.

 

The 1st gen Dodges actually only had one battery, on the driver side. It has served us well that way too. I did end up adding a starter relay so that the solenoid would stay engaged, but as far as being able to crank it, one battery has been enough.

Stock gauges like you say aren't bad at all. The thread size of the oil sender on the Cummins is smaller than the Ford sender, so you will need to get a plumbing reducer, the good new is that both senders are NPT.

Does the Cummins have the A/C on it? If it does, it will not clear the Ford frame. To take it off is easy though, the belt re-routes and the tensioner is positioned a bit different is all.

 

Yes, it has A/C. The newer A/C mounts will work, the older ones are the issue.
I didn't get the compressor, so I'll likely try to upgrade to the newer water inlet/A/C bracket.

The boss only has 1 battery in his 05 F350 with the 12V. It'll start even in cold weather, but it doesn't crank as well as it could.....
I want to go with dual batteries for a couple reasons. One being it will crank faster, which should allow the starter to live a longer life. Another reason, it will simplify the alt and starting wiring, without having to do a bunch of mods/rerouting to the current wiring. Just replace the current starter cable on the solenoid, with a ~10ga wire going to the start terminal on the cummins starter.