The GLK has no instrumentation whatsoever on the turbos. And, since they are computer-controlled there's little way to bring them in and then back out as the 'puter will bring them back in should conditions require them.

 

If you already have a good axle with 2.75 gears, I'm with Gary. What's more, I'd say it's a no-brainer. What do you have to lose trying the 2.75s first? If you decide you don't like them you can always change it later, and it's not significantly more difficult than doing it now. On the other hand if you do like the 2.75s you've saved yourself a bunch of money.

By the way, you don't need to bother with calibrating the speedo right away either. Just figure out how much it's off and you can guess your real speed pretty well from looking at the uncalibrated speedo. If you decide to keep the 2.75s you can calibrate it later, and if not you won't have wasted that effort.

 

Right now, the trans has a VSS for an electronic speedo, so I am going to have to acquire a speedo drive unit and gear before I can even make the speedo work, accurate or not.

 

The plot thickens on the "free" flywheel/clutch. The 6 speed uses a spacer on the starter. I assume this means the starter ring gear on the flywheel is closer to the back of the engine. This spacer can be bought from a few sources, so it's not too big of a deal, if it's needed....
The wierd thing is, the flywheel is drilled for either the 12.25" or 13" clutch. This is common for the 5 speed flywheels, but since all 6 speeds used the 13" clutch, and the flywheel is claimed to be unique, it seems odd that this one is dual drilled.

Not sure how to pinpoint whether this is a "true" 6 speed flywheel, which would require the spacer, or a dual drilled 5 speed flywheel.

The cost of the spacer, added to the larger input shaft kit, brings the cost of using this "free" clutch/flywheel within a few dollars of buying a new "stock" 5 speed clutch/flywheel.
Yes, I still *should* replace the input shaft. But, I have a good used stock input shaft sitting on my toolbox......

 

Hmmmm. That is a puzzle. Which way gives the best/strongest clutch? (Not that you'll need that in a 1/2 ton truck.)

 

Well, I would have to guess that the 13" clutch and 1-3/8" input shaft would be the strongest. The 12.25" clutch and 1-1/4" input shaft aren't weak, except in comparison to the bigger stuff.

Want to talk about strong, they make dual and triple disc 13" clutch setups for these. THAT would be overkill..........

Cost on those starts in the $1200 range, and goes up quickly. I am not even going to consider that route.......

 

There is a balance between strong and rapid engagement. Larger clutches and those with multiple disks have more surface area. Too much surface area and there is little to no slip when engaging. So starting from a stop is a problem.

 

Yeah, I have thought about that. Of course, with a 5.61 ratio 1st gear, there's not much need for slip during engagement. Would be nice to not have to use that gear every time though.......

Finally got in touch with the guy that the boss figured would have the engine mounting plate/adapter I need, and he says he has an extra one. Supposed to bring it by the shop next time he comes this way. Very reasonable price too. About 1/4th of the usual asking price.......

This will allow me to test fit the flywheel, and see if it needs that spacer or not. I am leaning towards foregoing the 13" clutch, since the bigger input shaft kit is nearly the same cost as a new clutch in stock size.
If the spacer is needed, it's cost is also the same as the difference in price between the clutch kit alone, and one that includes a new flywheel.
I have a good stock input shaft I can swap in. I think I'll try to keep my clutch costs down, so I can get it together quicker. There's still other stuff I'll have to buy along the way......

The current flywheel is drilled for either size clutch, so it will be used if the spacer isn't needed.

 

I think you are making the right decision on the clutch. And the adaptor plate deal sounds sweet.

 

Yeah, it just doesn't make sense to spend ~$350 for pieces to make the 13" clutch work, and still have a used clutch, when a new clutch/flywheel kit can be had for the same cost, with a warrentty.
That doesn't mean I'm going to toss all that stuff. There could be a time when I actually need to put it to use.....

 

Made a little progress today. Went to the shop to do this:





I popped the balancer and front cover off to deal with the KDP (killer dowel pin). The KDP had worked it's way out about 1/4". Not as bad as some, but still not good.
I punched it back into place, then set about making a retainer plate to keep it from ever coming out unexpectedly. (sorry, no pics of that. I forgot I have this fancy new phone that can do that kinda thing, until I was ready to come home)
Put the retainer in place, and used red locktite on the bolt that holds it in. Pretty sure it's not gonna escape.......
Put the front cover and balancer back on, even though they may need to come back off, for a new front crank seal.

Then I set about cleaning the injector bores. They were NASTY. Someone has had the injectors out of this engine before, and didn't use the copper sealing washers under them. The injectors were already pulled out when I got the engine, but they were included. Likely going to just buy new 40HP injectors, since they cost right at the same as having the current injectors rebuilt, and they have a better spray pattern than the original "large tip" ones that fit my engine. The better spray pattern came along at the same time as the tip was reduced from 9mm to 7mm. They make copper sleeves with the sealing washer integrated for just such applications.

Gratuitous pic of the trans, partly torn apart. You can see the 13" clutch and flywheel in the background.


A close up view of the air intake tube. The top row of lettering will be removed.......


And, a straighter shot at the front.

 

Before anyone asks, yes the oil filler tube is leaning over. I didn't tighten it down all the way, since it has to come back off to install the injection pump.
No, I didn't clean the outside of the front cover. I will be power washing the entire engine once I have all the holes filled with their proper items. The injectors and injection pump aren't in it, and that leaves 6 holes leading directly into the cyls, and a big one that will let water into the crankcase.

 

Progress is good, Paul!

Keep chipping away at it.

 

I should have got a pic of it when I had it hanging in the air. I swung one arm of that big lift around, and picked it up. In order to get it come out of the back of the truck, I had to deflate the rear tires, and drive out from under it. Figured that was easier than trying to use the forklift to pick up the pallet it was on, even though that was how it got loaded into the truck.

 

Yes, progress is good. And, I like the ingenuity of deflating the tires to get out from under it.

As for the air inlet's lettering, is the tube flat-sided or rounded? It looks rounded but if flat we could mill the letters off.

And, I just sent you a PM that might should'a been posted here. And, I can do that if you want as we might want more input than just the two of us.