Cummins swap/frame question
That's good MPG. You'll be glad you kept it.
And getting the drugs was a good idea. You'll bounce back more quickly.
I hope to able to have the engine/trans in place this weekend. May not be there for the last time, but would be nice to at least have the mounts finalized.
That's assuming I can recover from the mild pneumonia in time...... Takes a lot outta ya.
Depending on when the rain hits, I may try to load the old engine/trans in the 74 tomorrow, and get them out of the shop. I still have that big tarp that the Cummins was under, in order to keep them dry until I can off load them. Planned to do that already, just haven't had the chance.
And, since we finally got rid of a couple trucks that were becoming scenery around the shop (long delays getting parts, 2 weeks occuppying a bay), I can finally get my truck back inside to get some more progress on it.
A guy I worked for (way too many) years ago stopped by the shop today, driving his recently acquired 93 D350 Cummins/5 speed, so I had to go do some snooping around under the hood. They are rather rare, particularly one this unmolested, so I got to see how a lot of stuff is *supposed* to be installed. I showed the boss how the factory engine mounts were made, and he finally understood what I have been trying to tell him for months. He then agreed that my planned route was going to be more than plenty, and even simpler than what he had been trying to get me to do...... I hope to have these made and installed this weekend. Gotta reseal the oil pan first, and that will require the cherry picker, which still has a certain 300 hanging from it.........
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Another note, I was just crawling under my truck today and noticed that the fuel pump on the side of the block appeared to be leaking. Whether this is from the gasket itself allowing engine oil out, or diesel, I decided to order a new pump (Delphi HFP274). That's better than taking the chance of filling the crankcase up with fuel. Some people upgrade to a low pressure piston style pump for more fuel/better reliability, but I wasn't looking to pay $280 to make the switch. The pump went bad in my 302 after sitting a while too, so if your 6BT has been sitting it might be something to look into.
That stuff is also known as "rigid high torque". It's designed to allow for more torque to be applied, without it squishing out, once it has started to "set up".
I do plan to change the lift pump before the engine sees much more than a few minutes of run time. Pretty sure it's the original, from 1989. That's just over 25 years (engine build date is 7-21-89), so it's due to leak at any time...... May have only seen 120K miles in those 25 years, but the rubber is still old.
The lift pump is a bit down the priority list though, since I don't have the injectors back yet. Can't start it without those.......
If I can get the engine/trans mounts mocked up and finalized, the engine and trans may stay in place for now, but they will still need to come back out to allow a few other things to be done.
Heck, the trans isn't actually ready to install, but it's close enough for what I need to do. The tail shaft housing will need to come back off. The 5th gear nut isn't on it, much less torqued down. Of course, that can be done in the truck, if need be.
Ordered a rear main seal and front cover gasket set today, and was told they would be in this afternoon. The kid behind the counter forgot it was saturday..... They won't be in till tomorrow.
I did get the pan off, and cleaned up. Doesn't look like it was leaking, nor was in danger of doing so anytime soon, but what the heck. I know it's good now. I also know there's nothing roaming around loose inside the pan that doesn't belong there. Inside, it's clean as a whistle.
Appears to have had a rear main seal replaced at some point, as there is blue silicone on the seal housing. Still gonna replace it, just cause I'm there.
I got the older style lower hose fitting/AC bracket off, ready to install the later style. Couldn't swap out the upper hose outlet, since it was hanging from the cherry picker, and the front lifting hook is sandwiched between the head and t-stat housing.
Got a later start than I wanted. Took a lot longer to load the 300 and C6 than I was expecting, since I had to work on the tailgate of the 74 in order to get it open.
By the time I got that done, and the front cover cleaned up good, I was feeling the effects of having worked all week while not at 100%.
Instead of changing the front seal, I just put the cover back in place and loosely installed the bolts. Shoved the engine back in the hole I have had it sitting for a while, and came home. I did make sure to leave the front accessible, so I can get the front cover back off and change that seal when I have some free time thru the week.
While I had the cover off, I snapped a couple pics. 1 showing the metal retainer I made to keep the "killer dowel pin" from ever getting loose, and a wider angle pic showing the entire gear train under the cover. These pics also show what I mean about the engine being clean internally....
Killer dowel pin solution:

Full gear train under the cover:

I have debated putting in a new oil pump, since it is just 4 bolts, and sits right there on the far left, next to the idler gear that runs off the crank. But, with the low miles, it's hard to believe there could possibly be a valid reason for changing it. They aren't known for having problems.






