Dang, that thing just split the block in half and chunked it out the cowling!

 

Ha, he means business

I'd watch my fingers around him, those teeth look a bit threatening

 

Ian's my buddy. He and I've watched Cars 15 times by actual count. He's not talking much yet, but seemingly the first sentence he said was "Ian drive truck". So, I'm thinking I may have a truck for him to drive one day.

 

Here's the result of a bit of work on my part. First, I transcribed the text that was in a small jpg of an article from Super Ford Magazine re Cleveland Oiling. As that magazine is no longer in publication I'll attach the Word doc containing the transcription.

And there's a diagram in that article that helped me get my head around the oiling system. Again, all I've found is a tiny picture of the article and the diagram was a very small piece of that. So much so that even blowing it up in Photoshop was worthless. So I redrew it:


And, along the way I found this, although it is incorrect as the crossover is off the #5 main and not the #4 as shown. In any event it helps due to its 3D view.


But neither of those tell anything about the size of the passages, and I know Brute is going to ask, so will this help?


So, now that I have a slightly better understanding of what's going on I think I buy into Tim's mods. He specifically said they've seen the #1 main shedding a huge amount of oil as there is way too much going to it. I can now see that with the mod the 1 - 4 mains have a .313" feed and #5 has a .344" feed. That seems much more reasonable, although #5 still seems to be somewhat deprived since that passage also has to feed the driver's side lifter gallery.

Also, note that the outlet of the oil filter is smaller than the main passages beyond it. I wish I knew how to make that better. But, there is one thing that I've read that can really help - the intersection of the passage from the oil filter to the .585" one that runs horizontally. That is a very rough joint and some have used a ball hone to clean things up in there, with good results. So I'm looking into some of those tricks.

Thoughts? Questions? Suggestions?

Oh, and if any of you have a good suggestion of how to get my snap gauge out of the oil filter feed I'm all eyes - today. Tomorrow I'll be all eye. Unfortunately as I was measuring the bore of that passage the snap gauge slide back too far and opened up.

 

My suggestion on that would be either a scribe (full length 9" machinists scribe) or a cabinet screw driver (12" blade, 13/64 flat tip) to try to get in there and depress the extension side. If the whole thing got sucked in, extra long nose pliers to bring the handle back to you.

 

I would probably try to feed a piece of shim stock (or even a sliver of soda can) past it.

 

RL - Don't think I can get anything that big in there. But I can still get to the handle and tighten or loosen the set screw.

Jim - Hadn't thought of a soda can. That's probably the best idea as I need a ramp of some kind to get the tips to come up and also go in at the same time. I have plenty of cans so that'll be easy.

Thanks, guys. I played with it just a bit but decided I was going to wait for some better ideas since mine obviously weren't working. I'll give it another go in a day or two. Hey, maybe I'll be able to even see it!

 

Gary- makes me wonder how big your spring gauges are. Sorry the ideas couldn't help. And please call me Critter. I'm pretty sure I have it in my signature. I'll check when I get off duty at 9am tomorrow.

 

Best of luck with your surgery tomorrow Gary.

 

Critter - Don't see it in the sig, but if you put it there later it'll help remind me. The gauges are .50" up and they JUST fit in the .500" filter outlet. So getting them back compressed is gonna be a bear.

Jim - Thanks.

 

Top work Gary, that really explains the system.

From a fluid power perspective it is a shocking design for a fluid distribution manifold.
The attachment detailed an excellent idea for an external balance pipe, I'll keep that in mind for my Cleveland

Tim's mods make perfect and sound sense once you understand that critical flaw in the design. It also answers why high pressure or higher flow oil pumps aren't needed if the system is rectified.

For the oil passages, you can use abrasive media blasting to clean them up.
There is a guy here in Aus "Specialised Power Porting" who has developed the use of air driven media for porting and extrusion, it's very effective in cleaning up the surfaces and optimising the fluid flow. It's an easier version of the extrude honing process you guys have.

 

There used to be a place here in the States called ExtrudeHone.

They did a lot of two stroke porting by forcing abrasive pastes through the passages.
Imagine something like SillyPutty loaded with silicon carbide grit.


Edit: They're still out there.
http://www.extrudehoneafm.com/

 

Brad - Thanks. It actually took quite a bit of time to transcribe that article as well as to draw it up. But, it was worth it as it got my head around the design as well as Tim's mods. And, I agree with you - they make sense now.

Yes, the external pipe looks like the fix. But it would be slick if you could get to the port on the back of the block where the driver's side (US) gallery is accessible. That would be perfect as you'd come out of the drilled port above the oil filter and take it right into the lowest-pressure point in the system, giving good balance overall.

I'd thought about extrude hone, but I don't think it is worth it. But I am really thinking there must be something that can be done in the first part of the system between the oil filter and the passage that goes across horizontally. There are some really bad turns in there. Maybe if I can get the oil filter adaptor off - does anyone know how it comes off?

 

On my engine it needs a socket with the chamfer ground off.
Some adapters have a large inhex.

 

Gary, I wanted to Rep you for all the effort you put into detailing your discoveries.


But alas.