Monte's 04 Build Thread
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
If the engine isn't set back for a mechanical fan no notch is needed.
I also lowered the engine to center the fan in a stock shroud and lower the trans in the tunnel, we also gained extra hood clearance for the intake piping. Before lowering the engine the trans was up against the tunnel insullation.
This moved the ac pump manifold against the cross member, the 1 1/2 inch notch gives plenty of room to install and remove the manifold without taking the ac pump loose.
The bottom of the trans clearance pic shows the steel plate we made to raise the mount thus lowering the engine.
I also lowered the engine to center the fan in a stock shroud and lower the trans in the tunnel, we also gained extra hood clearance for the intake piping. Before lowering the engine the trans was up against the tunnel insullation.
This moved the ac pump manifold against the cross member, the 1 1/2 inch notch gives plenty of room to install and remove the manifold without taking the ac pump loose.
The bottom of the trans clearance pic shows the steel plate we made to raise the mount thus lowering the engine.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Ha that's an awesome idea lol
I made a lot of progress again today.
I removed the passenger wheel liner, the remaining brake lines, the abs module, all remaining wires are pulled out of the engine bay, steering box and the washer fluid tank. It's basically almost completely stripped except for the front body mounts and drivers side wheel liners.
Pics!: (sorry from my phone directly)
I made a lot of progress again today.
I removed the passenger wheel liner, the remaining brake lines, the abs module, all remaining wires are pulled out of the engine bay, steering box and the washer fluid tank. It's basically almost completely stripped except for the front body mounts and drivers side wheel liners.
Pics!: (sorry from my phone directly)
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
I was working on mine tonight and realized I had told you wrong about where the inj lines go.
Front set goes between cyl 1 and 2, back set goes between cyl 3 and 4, inj return line goes between cyl 5 and six
Got more done tonight.
Can someone tell me how to put the wording on top of the pics
Every time I insert the pics it moves my messages to the bottom of the post
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 10,080
Likes: 5
From: Backwoods of Snowflake AZ
I got a boat load done today, I pulled back and rerouted most of the wiring in the engine bay, zipe tie fixed teh wire channel near the cowl removed all fuel lines, removed front to rear brake lines and test fit new prebent lines and lastly I made an attempt to test fit the cummins but soon found i need to use a leveler to get the motor in lol.
Pics!
Cummins motor mounts, these are very nice mounts and ony require drilling one hole on th drives side. I will have to test fit the motor tighten them and drill the one hole.
Does anyone know what this piece does? it mounted next to the throttle cable so my initial thought was its the TPS sensor?
Also crious about this piece and if it is needed, it had two hoses that went to the throttle body
Pics!
Cummins motor mounts, these are very nice mounts and ony require drilling one hole on th drives side. I will have to test fit the motor tighten them and drill the one hole.
Does anyone know what this piece does? it mounted next to the throttle cable so my initial thought was its the TPS sensor?
Also crious about this piece and if it is needed, it had two hoses that went to the throttle body
The sensor looks like the EVS egr vacuum solenoid. It has the computer tell it to open so that there is vacuum to the EGR valve itself.
Trav
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Just realized not all my pictures posted form my phone... I'll try and get them up but in the mean time i am in el Paso for this week and Next so i may not get much if any work done on the truck this weekend so here's my goal.
I want to get the Cummins mounted and in by November 20th I am traveling 4 of those weeks and it cuts into the weekends so I think that is realistic versus saying 3 weeks and having all 3 be one day weekends between my travel. This includes PORing everything except the front axle which i plan to remove once i get proper jack stands to suspend the weight of the front if anyone has any suggestions for some i can order online (mainly because of my limited time at home) I'm all ears. I was thinking 12 ton stands for height.
Also on another note, anyone have any advise for removing the front body mounts? i got the nuts off but they are still wedged in there.
I want to get the Cummins mounted and in by November 20th I am traveling 4 of those weeks and it cuts into the weekends so I think that is realistic versus saying 3 weeks and having all 3 be one day weekends between my travel. This includes PORing everything except the front axle which i plan to remove once i get proper jack stands to suspend the weight of the front if anyone has any suggestions for some i can order online (mainly because of my limited time at home) I'm all ears. I was thinking 12 ton stands for height.
Also on another note, anyone have any advise for removing the front body mounts? i got the nuts off but they are still wedged in there.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
The body mount bolt threads into the upper half of the body mount. Taking the nut loose from the top side loosens the body from the frame but the bolt is still threaded into the upper bushing. You'll need to take the bolt out in order to remove the two halves of the bushing that also lock together internally making them a real PIA to get apart.
We destroyed the upper half of one bushing taking the bolt out because the bolt was stuck in the threads, luckily we had spares from the other frame, spray some penetrating oil into the top of the bushing and let it soak.
Why are you taking the front mounts loose?
We destroyed the upper half of one bushing taking the bolt out because the bolt was stuck in the threads, luckily we had spares from the other frame, spray some penetrating oil into the top of the bushing and let it soak.
Why are you taking the front mounts loose?
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
roger thanks! I got some poly ones a while back and i am going to POR where the bushings are. The core support side is rusting bad and I'm hoping the POR will stop some of that rust so i dont have to replace it down the road or at least as quick.
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
I thought that might be the issue, you might need to loosen the front cab mounts in order to raise the front core support enough to get the bushings out, they stick down in the frame rails about 1/2".
When you install the new ones tighten them down until there's clearance between them and the body, then loosen them until they fully contact the body. That's how they adjust them instead of using shims.
When you install the new ones tighten them down until there's clearance between them and the body, then loosen them until they fully contact the body. That's how they adjust them instead of using shims.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
awesome thanks for the info! ill get those front cab bushing loosened then so it doesnt become an issue, how to you loosen that bolt by the core support? Is there a hole in the hanger
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
We dropped the axle and springs out first thing
No holes in my F-450 hangers.
The bolts sticking down in the front of the sub is where the spring hangers bolt on, so yes the hangers will have to come off.
You may be able to pull the axle back on the shackles enough for the front spring eyes to clear the access hole in the frame.
Notice the rubber gone from the right bushing in order to get a pipe wrench on the steel part of the bushing to keep it from turning in order to get the bolt out.
Just a pic of the coil spring front and sub frame we put back under the truck.
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Logistics Pro
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 4,654
Likes: 20
From: Tewksbury, MA
Hey guys, got back from El Paso this weekend and I didn't have much time to do anything but i got a new Expedition shifter to try instead of the mustang one because its a direct fit for the console and to my surprise its a direct fit for my transmision cable as well fits perfectly!
Cargo Master
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 2,543
Likes: 322
From: Harned, Ky
Looks nice.
Was planning to start mine today but my old radiator decided to start leaking, I'll have to order a new on tomorrow along with some new batteries to replace the 5 1/2 year old ones that no longer want to crank the engine more than 8-10 turn before slowing down.
Was planning to start mine today but my old radiator decided to start leaking, I'll have to order a new on tomorrow along with some new batteries to replace the 5 1/2 year old ones that no longer want to crank the engine more than 8-10 turn before slowing down.