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we put a 4" icon kit on my old bosses 02 F350, and the icon drop pitman arm just rubbed the icon springs... I have a 4" drop BDS pitman arm and 4" lift springs, and mine doesnt rub at all
Might just be a variation in manufacturing then? I have a BDS 4" drop pitman arm only difference is i dont have 4" springs i just have the leveling pack. I'm getting 4" springs either way once the motor and everything is in and i see where she sits loaded. I got a free 2" lift once i pulled the 5.4l lol.
Maybe. I know it cant be how the arm gets installed, as it is master splined 4x so if you mis-align it, you will have way more problems lol. I wonder if like said earlier, something in the box internally is messed up
I got a boat load done today, I pulled back and rerouted most of the wiring in the engine bay, zipe tie fixed teh wire channel near the cowl removed all fuel lines, removed front to rear brake lines and test fit new prebent lines and lastly I made an attempt to test fit the cummins but soon found i need to use a leveler to get the motor in lol.
Pics!
Cummins motor mounts, these are very nice mounts and ony require drilling one hole on th drives side. I will have to test fit the motor tighten them and drill the one hole.
Does anyone know what this piece does? it mounted next to the throttle cable so my initial thought was its the TPS sensor?
Also crious about this piece and if it is needed, it had two hoses that went to the throttle body
these are the heater core hoses that i will trim to fit directly on to my metal cummins coolant hoses to get head in the cab.
The 5.4l throttle cable
Forgot to mention that i removed the passenger battery tray (not in this picture) i rerouted the amplifier cables to the drivers side to go off the batteries diectly.
Wiring clean up
before:
After:
I am thinking about taking the old hood light and wiring an inline switch with some LEDs on the cowl (where im pointing, thoughts?
this is the old hub vac line and i am assuming this needs to be run to the canister to have the vents properly so ill be fooling with this and the cummins vacuum pump at some point.
Battery tray removed
I think the "Prebent lines" need some more bending lol.
Pull the valve covers off and hook the chain up short or the chain will hit the cowl before the engine is all the way back. To keep the head from hitting the cowl I bolted the frame brackets to the engine mounts then installed the engine, you don't have to lift it was high with the brackets on the engine. As soon as the oil pan sump clears the cross member you'll need to start letting the engine down to clear the cowl, the brackets mounted to the frame makes this difficult.
What transmission are you planning the connect to the sae clutch housing.
You'll have two move the vented valve covers forward to the four middle cylinders, the inj lines go between cyl one and two and between cyl three and four, the dual vented covers wont fit over the inj line (been there tried that). The inj over flow line goes through between cyl 5 and 6
Pull the valve covers off and hook the chain up short or the chain will hit the cowl before the engine is all the way back. To keep the head from hitting the cowl I bolted the frame brackets to the engine mounts then installed the engine, you don't have to lift it was high with the brackets on the engine. As soon as the oil pan sump clears the cross member you'll need to start letting the engine down to clear the cowl, the brackets mounted to the frame makes this difficult.
What transmission are you planning the connect to the sae clutch housing.
You'll have two move the vented valve covers forward to the four middle cylinders, the inj lines go between cyl one and two and between cyl five and six, the dual vented covers wont fit over the inj line (been there tried that). The inj over flow line will fit through the gap in vented covers but needs to be installed first because the hold down tab wont go through after the covers are installed (tried that too).
Thanks for the info on the valve covers! I installed them after i pulled the injection pump and lines.
I'll have to try that i got the sump past the cross member and ended up connecting the frame mounts to the engine but the chain was hitting the cowl. I noticed once i put the mounts on the motor i had a ton more room, ill shorten the chains and put the hoist on a higher weight setting to allow me more freedom to install.
I am mounting an 01 Allison 5 speed up to the motor with the SAE pattern. currently the Allison has the standard chevy bellhousing. the cummins had no trans adapter plate and i found the SAE one for $100 so i figured I'd take my chances since it was $100 or over 1k for the flywheel and trans adapter form a conversion company. My concern is Firewall clearance and everywhere ive read says that they contact the firewall once the trans is in place. I wanted to get the motor in measure and see where i was at.
Also crious about this piece and if it is needed, it had two hoses that went to the throttle body
Looks great! Nice progress. Just from looking at this, it looks like a solenoid that controls vacuum. Looks very similar the solenoid that operates the EGR in my Ranger. If it has 2 hoses that go to the throttle body, and these trucks are not drive by wire, my guess is it is related to the cruise control. Someone may know for certain, but that is my best guess
Looks great! Nice progress. Just from looking at this, it looks like a solenoid that controls vacuum. Looks very similar the solenoid that operates the EGR in my Ranger. If it has 2 hoses that go to the throttle body, and these trucks are not drive by wire, my guess is it is related to the cruise control. Someone may know for certain, but that is my best guess
That disk thing is an EVAP control solenoid. I'm pretty sure you won't need that with your diesel set up. I think that other cable that went to your throttle body is the cruise control cable but I couldn't tell for sure. Looking like lots of progress!
That disk thing is an EVAP control solenoid. I'm pretty sure you won't need that with your diesel set up. I think that other cable that went to your throttle body is the cruise control cable but I couldn't tell for sure. Looking like lots of progress!
Awesome thank you so much! that would make sens that its cruise control because it goes to a control box by the heater core and was mounted directly to the throttle cable. I am going to see if i can reuse my stock throttle cable vs buying a conversion one.
I will remove the plate and maybe make another mounting point for something, the potential cruise control module wont reach the drivers side of the cummins block so i can mount it in place of the EVAP control and extend wiring if needed.
Looking good man just note you should really cap that evaporator for the ac if you get any dirt or junk in there it will not be fun.
this is the old hub vac line and i am assuming this needs to be run to the canister to have the vents properly so ill be fooling with this and the cummins vacuum pump at some point.
On my setup with the engine set back to run a mechanical fan for towing the 6.0 bell housing clears the firewall by about a inch and only then because I modified the mounting brackets lowering the engine one inch at the mounts, If your going set the engine forward and run electric fans it'll be close.
Does your trans a provision for a rear mount so you don't have to use the midmount setup on the sae housing. If the sae housing fits and the trans has a mounting pad you can cut the mounting tabs off the sae housing to make more room.
On a hydra boost truck I'd get a diesel electric vacuum pump and not mess with the dodge pump on the engine.
A 94-97 Dodge Cummins throttle cable is a good fit only requiring the fire wall hole to be filed square for the Dodge cable to fit. It connects to the 5.4 pedal with not modifications.
I got mine from Geno's Garage for about $45
Looking good man just note you should really cap that evaporator for the ac if you get any dirt or junk in there it will not be fun.
Thanks, Yeah i left the hose capping that until I pulled the motor. Thanks for reminding me i would have completely forgotten about that lol.
Originally Posted by Destroked 450
On my setup with the engine set back to run a mechanical fan for towing the 6.0 bell housing clears the firewall by about a inch and only then because I modified the mounting brackets lowering the engine one inch at the mounts, If your going set the engine forward and run electric fans it'll be close.
Does your trans a provision for a rear mount so you don't have to use the midmount setup on the sae housing. If the sae housing fits and the trans has a mounting pad you can cut the mounting tabs off the sae housing to make more room.
On a hydra boost truck I'd get a diesel electric vacuum pump and not mess with the dodge pump on the engine.
A 94-97 Dodge Cummins throttle cable is a good fit only requiring the fire wall hole to be filed square for the Dodge cable to fit. It connects to the 5.4 pedal with not modifications.
I got mine from Geno's Garage for about $45
My trans does have the provision for the rear mount so i can reuse the stock crossmember however i will have to drill a few holes which wont be an issue.
Are you referring to the 6.0l electric pump? my initial thought was to get one of those until i found out my 92 motor had the vac and power steering pump in one unit. does the cummins pump pull too much?
That's good to know about ht throttle cable, i have the cable that came with my 92 so maybe ill just reuse that one? not sure of the differences but if they are different does the 94-97 cable mount up the same to the VE pump as the P-Pump?
Engine and front subframe out, ready to install the 07 coil spring front sub and then the Cummins
07 sub installed, the notch in the right side of the sub is for AC compressor clearance, after cutting out the notch we welded in a piece of angle iron
Engine installed and bolted down for the final time
Pic of trans to tunnel clearance
My valve cover vent setup Ran out of paint and got some Dupli Color at a local parts store. It didn't match, ordered some more Seymour 1447 Cummins Beige.
Not sure about the cable fitting a ve pump linkage but look at the 92 Dodge cable, it may fit just as easy as mine did. Some of the Dodge vacuum pumps leaked oil and had to be resealed, I used a MD truck ps pump and did away with the Dodge setup, I also have a engine mounted air compressor I'm plumbing in for future use.
Nice! I was just looking into the electric pump and found that a 4bt Ps pump can be swapped on without a tank so I could relocate my PS fluid tank and cut down on clutter around the engine. I like that vent set up you have there I think I may do that in mine, do you have them routes to a catch can?
Quick question regarding your AC compressor, from everywhere I've ready the cross member has never been notched did youbdonit as a precaution or was it a different compressor?
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