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It's a real bummer but sometimes life gets in the way of having fun.
I'm sure we've all been there at one time or the other.
Got my truck going but that's more of a work project, haven't driven my Fairlane in over a year and I've been collecting parts for the engine swap for over ten years.
It's a real bummer but sometimes life gets in the way of having fun.
I'm sure we've all been there at one time or the other.
Got my truck going but that's more of a work project, haven't driven my Fairlane in over a year and I've been collecting parts for the engine swap for over ten years.
Indeed it is, but I'm not too worried since i have always have a backup plan for things like this that may or may not happen. Just annoyed i cant keep buying car parts lol after all my new UPS guy doesn't know me as well as my parents guy does yet.
Well I started my week off with the highest of intentions and got the Cummings stripped down to get a new head gasket and studs. This is what I found about 20 minutes ago after wrenching for two hours. I'll post all my pics and the process in the morning but for now I'm going to bed to sleep on the next step lol.
I'm no engine expert or even diesel novice, but I'd say the 3 of those cylinders where not doing what they were suppose to.... is this perhaps why the engine was "such a good price?"
Maybe, I think the coolant was leaking after it was sitting because I can still see the factory cross hatching under the surface rust. I'm setting up my new shop vac this morning and going to suck the crud out. Is it kosher to clean the cylinder walls with a scotch bright pad?
I don't see why it would hurt (please refer back to me not being an engine expert). The other thing to use would be one of those honing tools that you attach to a drill.
You can use a scotch bright pad but with the amount of rust you have I'd use something a little more aggressive like a scrubbing pad for pots and pans with plenty of WD40 or PB Blaster.
Unfortunately it looks like your in for a complete overhaul, aside from the rust I see a fair amount of clearance between the pistons and cylinders on the non rusted cylinders indicating a considerable amount of wear. Most likely will need a .020 overbore to clean the cylinders up along with new pistons and rings. The head will also need a full rework along with having the block and head deck surfaces checked for flatness and possibly needing milled.
Good thing you pulled the head rather than instilling the engine and then finding you had problems.
Yes lots of places carry parts for Cummins engines but some are not good quality.
I'd stay away from anything Interstate McBee.
Mahle is OEM supplier for Cummins pistons, enough said
Cummins or Federal Mogul bearings are my choice
Cummins, Hasting, Perfect Circle are all good rings but, DO NOT USE CHROME RINGS !!!!
Lots of arguments on gaskets, Cummins, Fel Pro, Victor. If the block is decked use only Cummins oversized head gasket IMO.
I'll scuff it all tomorrow I sidelines the motor for now to get my compressor wired up and to start repainting out bathroom lol. From looking at it closely I can see all the cross hatches on the walls still, my thought was this meant there wasn't much wear. Like Jeremy though I'm not a motor guy just willing to learn.
Thinking about waiting until the truck is done and waiting for the motor to do motor work.
I've been thinking a lot today about using the VE in the F150 or charger at a later date and aiming for a common rail for the F250. After the overhaul and parts i want to put into the 1st gen I'm sitting right at the cost for a 03-04 or 04.5-07 commonrail motor wig low miles and already has the power output of a 1st gen and most importantly...it's legal to swap.
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