I think the issue is the lifters pumping up. I would bet it had a very uneven crank on the first couple cranks. I have mark making me a turbo feed tube block off soI can prime the system on the stand with no glow plugs in. But I just got my lift,, and I've been happy not pulling cabs to pull engines.

 

Still waiting for report

 

hahaha

I could actually hear a thump threw the intake for awhile when the lifters were dry. The sound actually went away when the lifters pumped up on the third crank attempt. As for priming the system I would make a fitting and pump for pumping oil into the IPR journal. Then pull the two plugs on the tops of the oil rails and watch for the oil. I primed my LPOP threw the bypass/oil pressure regulator. That part worked good, within seconds of cranking oil was pumping into the filter reservoir.

Today! Today is the day the 6.0 will run! LOL

The 9th attempt last night was fruitless. With good charged up batteries I am expecting a very early start this morning. I am pretty much expecting it to fire on the first attempt today.

At least nothing is pouring out onto the floor yet!

 

You will get it, and that's a good idea with the pump through the ICP.I have a couple of marine preoilers for the HP supercharged motors.I'll make a hose fitting set up and try it out on the next job

 

You might want to pull the ICP sensor from the oil rail to see if it's getting oil there. I prefilled my reservoir and oil rails and the engine fired in 15 seconds from dry.

 

IPR

I am not sure exactly how the stand pipes work but I do know there is a valve in them. I would only want to push oil into the rails from the branch tube rather than from the passenger side rail tot he drivers side.

 

I am pretty darn certain oil is being pumped into the rails. At the 4th or so attempt the injector chatter sound changed to a more "lubed" sound.

I am curious though with the oil rails. With that huge chamber on the top side of the oil rail, does the air ever get out of the upper portion down threw the injectors and out of the rails?

Another reason I think it would be a good idea to prime in threw the IPR and fill the rails up to the plugs to get ALL the air out.

 

Yes, the air will work it's way out. That's the reason for taking the truck for 2 or 3 medium to hard throttle runs after it's all lined out. It helps with starts after you shut the truck off. If you have long cranks after replacing an injector, etc. it's because of air in the rails. The standpipes have a one way check valve to prevent drain back. I filled my oil rails through the ICP sensor hole which is the same on both rails except one is plugged. I was very surprised at how fast it cranked. Typically it's a 30 second crank after an injector if you don't prefill the rail. I have noticed that some trucks take longer and I do have the advantage of a faster starter. Keep plugging, she'll fire directly...

Oh.....my reasoning for pulling the ICP sensor was also to help relieve air that might be trapped in that end of the rail. A twofold purpose.

 

I'm gonna drive my 6.0 for the first time ever today!

I checked the ball joints, u-joints, tie rods, and fixed the passenger side locker. She is all ready to roll!

I have faith it will start, not worried yet. lol

I know many talk about purging air in the fuel lines after doing injectors on the 7.3. I made up a FRx which purged all the air out of the lines before I even turned the key to start. My 7.3 fired right up after all the oring work just like it was running yesterday. That was nice!

 

It runs! First attempt about 20 seconds in she came to life.

Topped off the fluids and drove around. Put about 20 miles on it so far and she is running like a top! No leaks, no missing, no check engine light!

But while out driving around about when everything was getting close to operating temp the trans started to act funny, then the check gauge light came on, the trans temp gauge fell to C, and the tow/haul light starts blinking. I drive it back to the shop, seems to not want to shift but makes it ok. I check connections, plug in my cheap scan tool which shows nothing. Top of the trans fluid which only took one quart and start the truck again. Trans temp was on C and CG light was on and T/H light was blinking, then they went out for a second, then came back on for a couple seconds and then went off a final time and stayed off and trans temp gauge started to go up slow.

So I drive a bit more, go about 3 miles and same stuff happens. I come back and giggle more wires and check more connections one at a time while truck is running and watching for the lights to go out but no dice.

That computer next to the drivers side battery, I assume that is the trans computer? Should I clean the two plugs I had off that and reinstall and try again? Are those the only plugs from the transmission to body that would have been unhooked? What else to look at?

 

I found this thread that explains the trans temp sensor might be bad?

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/8...-problems.html

I would like to make sure my wire connections I had apart are clean and good though before I dig into the trans temp sensor.

 

I would check and clean the PCM/TCM connections right where you're thinking. Electrical cleaner is your best friend

-I would also check the VSS as it affects shifting as well. Mine shifted funny, but warning lights never came on, instead it left a soft code that I found with my AE.

-You may also check the trans temp sensor, it's easily accessible once you drain and drop the pan. (it's 7.5 quarts to refill)

-Seeing that you reconnected the batteries, I'd also do the torqshift relearn strategy. I went from D to R 3 times pausing 5 seconds in between, following with R-D, N-D, N-R....after doing this and driving a few miles the trans relearns faster and shifts much smoother.

-Once you get the truck up to temp, you should also consider running the VGT relearn: Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums - View Single Post - Diablosport Predator Update for 04 Truck

I do this after I switch between tunes and my engine runs much better post flash.

 

The temp sensor can be an issue with the TorqShift. See what the TFT is reading when it acts up. You may have to replace that sensor.

 

Different part number but says it crosses over to the right one for our truck, this one ok? Good price for OEM!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/OEM-NEW-Ford-Transmission-Fluid-Temperature-Sensor-Trans-Temp-BC3Z-7H141-A-/261234151426?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cd2c4d002

 

Thanks for all the info! Everything felt great until the lights came on. I will pull off and check those connections to make sure. From reading around it does sound exactly like everyones symptoms for a bad temp sensor though.

I have no way to read the temps right now besides what the gauge on the dash shows me. That gauge on that dash says the sensor is bad lol.

Just to make sure AE can read and watch the transmission?