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Alternator taking a crap, time to replace!

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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 11:53 PM
  #121  
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From: Spanaway
Off topic but Benny your right. I recall that thread. He needed a vent to blow some cool
air into and how air out of the box.
You know it would not be that hard to plumb some cooling air into places in the engine
compartment both the FICK and Alternator could use cool air. Maybe a fan even.


Sean
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:19 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by the_auto_tech
Unless you have a serpentine belt tool it's a very tight fit to get a ratchet down into there unless it's a really long one.

I have no problem putting a Snap On 1/2" ratchet on the tensioner.

You saw how much room there is under there now. All the more reason to do away with the silly stator.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:53 AM
  #123  
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Originally Posted by Yahiko
Here is a photo
110 on left and 140 on right

If you look at the back side shell it deeper on the 140.

Sean
Thanks for those picts, Sean. The 110 is smaller in diameter is most noticable to me... Look at the mounting points, which are a fixed point of reference where any of these alts needs to mate up (bolt to) the truck. On mine there's even less room between the case and the mounting points than the new 140A one you just bought (go take a look at my post on page 5)... My case appears even bigger, go figure...

On edit: tho your picts are of the alts upside down, so maybe looks different topside...
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 02:29 AM
  #124  
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From: Spanaway
When I get some daylight I'll go take a new photo.
This time I'll try to include a measurement tape.

Sean
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 07:10 AM
  #125  
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Yea, you can easily tell the difference between the small case 6G and the large case 6G easily. I'm curious how much difference the overdrive pulley will make on it.

I actually had thoughts of putting a CPU fan on the FICM...
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 12:54 PM
  #126  
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Alternator need replacement ?

All this talk about alternators has got me wondering if I need one too !

Recently I've been monitoring electrical system voltage on my Scan Gauge II, and noticed something strange (to me at least).

First thing in the morning, cold truck, key on, engine off..... system voltage reads 12.4.
Key on glow plugs heating, system voltage reads 11.3.
Engine starts, ideling in park........voltage reads 11.5.
Voltage hangs around 11.5 -11.8 for several minutes and then SLOWLY climbs, and after about 5 minutes running time, finally reads 13.2.
Fully warmed up running down the interstate at 1,800RPM, system voltage fluctuates between 13.2- 13.5.

Batteries always crank fast, and truck starts within 3-5 seconds of cranking. Never had a problem with starting or running.

SO - - Do I need a new alternator ? ? ?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 01:00 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by GSlahor
All this talk about alternators has got me wondering if I need one too !

Recently I've been monitoring electrical system voltage on my Scan Gauge II, and noticed something strange (to me at least).

First thing in the morning, cold truck, key on, engine off..... system voltage reads 12.4.
Key on glow plugs heating, system voltage reads 11.3.
Engine starts, ideling in park........voltage reads 11.5.
Voltage hangs around 11.5 -11.8 for several minutes and then SLOWLY climbs, and after about 5 minutes running time, finally reads 13.2.
Fully warmed up running down the interstate at 1,800RPM, system voltage fluctuates between 13.2- 13.5.

Batteries always crank fast, and truck starts within 3-5 seconds of cranking. Never had a problem with starting or running.

SO - - Do I need a new alternator ? ? ?
The low voltage with the cold start would drive me nuts.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 01:16 PM
  #128  
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Is the low voltasge on cold start normal, or typical ?

And does it hurt anything ?
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 01:21 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by GSlahor
Is the low voltasge on cold start normal, or typical ?

And does it hurt anything ?
It's normal for a stock alternator.

Is it ok? That's the big question. Many many trucks running stock alternators and are doing just fine, so to speak.

But having the upgraded alternator should bring some peace of mind when it comes to FICM health, etc.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:14 PM
  #130  
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Honestly, for the 150 dollars for the 140 amp alt + 20 dollars for the overdrive pulley I think it's a very cheap peace of mind, especially considering you now have a lifetime alternator that can easily be replaced locally at any time. I'm glad mine was starting to die in the summer rather than this winter. It's nice to know that I'm back up to 100% on my batteries, alternator, and FICM now.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:21 PM
  #131  
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by GSlahor
All this talk about alternators has got me wondering if I need one too !

Recently I've been monitoring electrical system voltage on my Scan Gauge II, and noticed something strange (to me at least).

First thing in the morning, cold truck, key on, engine off..... system voltage reads 12.4.
Key on glow plugs heating, system voltage reads 11.3.
Engine starts, ideling in park........voltage reads 11.5.
Voltage hangs around 11.5 -11.8 for several minutes and then SLOWLY climbs, and after about 5 minutes running time, finally reads 13.2.
Fully warmed up running down the interstate at 1,800RPM, system voltage fluctuates between 13.2- 13.5.

Batteries always crank fast, and truck starts within 3-5 seconds of cranking. Never had a problem with starting or running.

SO - - Do I need a new alternator ? ? ?
Sort of looks like what mine was doing. Now after the replacement
I see 14.2 at the high end. I will have to watch it for a few days to
really tell what it's now doing for sure.

Sean
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 03:39 PM
  #132  
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On a side note, I'm getting ready for another trip to the Eastern Sierras. Load checked my batterys and one of them tested weak and the other one tested good. They are 18 months old. Took the truck to Autozone for them to check and they replaced the good and the bad battery under full warranty, no questions asked. That is why I continue to go back to them. That and the fact that almost any town across the U.S. will have one close by.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 04:32 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
On a side note, I'm getting ready for another trip to the Eastern Sierras. Load checked my batterys and one of them tested weak and the other one tested good. They are 18 months old. Took the truck to Autozone for them to check and they replaced the good and the bad battery under full warranty, no questions asked. That is why I continue to go nack to them. That and the fact that almost any town across the U.S. will have one close by.
Walmart, 3 years free replacement, no questions asked.

I have Walmart batteries over 12 years old. I should be taking them in at 3 years, but they work too good.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 04:43 PM
  #134  
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From: Middle Tn.
Originally Posted by Bullitt390
Walmart, 3 years free replacement, no questions asked.

I have Walmart batteries over 12 years old. I should be taking them in at 3 years, but they work too good.

Josh
Very few places will replace the good one too. Esp. if they have the equipment and personel to test them.Try to get Ford to replace a good one even tho they say they should be replaced in pairs. The Everstart battery I had in the mustang in my sig. made it almost 4 years. Not debating batterys just stating when some one gives me what I consider exceptional service I will let people know. Too many people only pubicize the negative stuff which is also part of the 6.0's legacy. Very few people come here to say what a wonderful truck they have.
 
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Old Aug 5, 2013 | 08:00 PM
  #135  
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In 50+ years of driving, I've replaced my share of alternators and they have been replaced with remanufactured alternators from Napa, Pep Boys, Autozone and Oreilly's. The lives of these alternators installed on various vehicles including Ford, Chevrolet, Plymouth, Cadillac and the MGB - (Lucas like Joseph Lucas, the Prince of Darkness) appears to be about 3-4 years. They have all had a lifetime guaranty so I would gather up my papers and head back to the store with alternator in hand and get a free replacement. So my expectation for a rebuilt alternator is 3-4 years. This is considerably shorter than the lives of the original alternators installed on the vehicles ( i.e. my Ford 6.0 alternator lasted for eight years.)

Some of the remanufactured alternators had a rather quick death and others tended to just gradually degrade. I've never had an argument with any vendor about free replacement. It leads me to believe that they expect returns from those of us who drive our vehicles for a long time.

Now to the point. If I needed to replace/upgrade my alternator today, I would consider a new Bosch AL7606N (with no core requirement) offered on Amazon for $151 plus state sales tax but no shipping cost. I've only owned one Bosch alternator which was on a '68 VW Fastback and it outlasted the car. Since the my truck is used mostly for towing on the road, I would stash the existing alternator 110 in the trailer for an emergency. And if I got eight years out of the Bosch, I would be satisfied.

Any thoughts on this approach?
 
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