When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Some time ago there was a thread on this and I had taken my
non-contact thermometer and let the alt warm up as I was reading
it over 5 minutes and the internal temps were getting really high
fast. If I recall right it was almost 200F but I should go take that
reading again to be sure.
Even if the under hood is like a wind tunnel if you change the flow
path you can and will get turbulence and that could cause spots that don't
get as much air and cooling. Remember that a cool alternator is a happy alternator.
It looks like I am not going to get the time to play with this topic now because
my SGII and the stereo head unit is not tuning on. Both respond to voltage
rise. The starter is not giving as much whop the 2nd time if I don't start the
first try. I find it does much better if I have it on the charger over night.
So if I want to get a 140 alternator does someone have a part number I should
be looking for. Are there any ones that I should stay away from?
I was thinking about the main topic and thought I should sub topic mine
with "Looks like my alternator is headed to the Port-A-Potty too" So I did.
I am going to start watching FICK voltage close along with the alternator output.
One last thing. Has anyone put a tachometer on the alternator to see what how RPM
relate to engine RPMs ? In other words what is the ratio. It can't be 1:1 can it?
Sean
All you need to do is look for the 140 amp alternator that came from the dual alternator setup on a 6.0. Like Josh said the snow plow prep truck had it as well and could also be specifically ordered like Scott's truck too. The local parts stores will list it as the top unit in the dual alt setup. Very easy to tell the difference between it an a 110 amp is it's quite a bit larger. I wouldn't know about the RPM but I'm going to be spinning mine faster. lol I figure if those aftermarket high output alternators in the same size casing are made to handle a much higher output without any additional cooling then my 140 amp with an overdrive pulley should be perfectly fine.
I paid for mine but realized I didn't want it. lol Without that top shroud you can actually change the belt without removing anything. With that shroud there it's nearly impossible to reach down past the tensioner to route the belt. Also, it's much easier to get to the kick-stand now.
In other news the alternator was definitely ****ting out. I'm running 14.2 volts now instead of 13.4.
Who needs the kick stand when you can just stick a ratchet in the tensioner???
Who needs the kick stand when you can just stick a ratchet in the tensioner???
Unless you have a serpentine belt tool it's a very tight fit to get a ratchet down into there unless it's a really long one.
Originally Posted by diesel_dan
in the old air cooled 911s, the Alt is the first thing that sees the air off the fan -- right behind the shroud, doesn't get more direct than that...
He's referring to a vehicle that directly has a duct that feeds the alternator. There's lots of vehicles that the fan will blow on it just because it sits behind the fan, but to have a vehicle that specifically has a duct to cool the alt is very rare.
He's referring to a vehicle that directly has a duct that feeds the alternator. There's lots of vehicles that the fan will blow on it just because it sits behind the fan, but to have a vehicle that specifically has a duct to cool the alt is very rare.
I Googled the 911 air deflector and sure enough they have a deflector for the alternator.
Which again seems odd to me, it isn't like those alternators are seeing mega amps like a modern alternator.
For years the alternator was placed out of the way of the fan shroud to keep water and junk off of it.
Although, reading a couple different forum posts on the 911 air deflector sounds a lot like the discussion on the 6.0 deflector:
"Throw it away, it's useless!"
"No, why would Porsche put it there for nothing, keep it"
To quote Josh (don't get to this often, well ok never): Just sayin'...
Someone at Ford decided the 6.4 would get side fender vents to exhaust hot air. My bet is they didn't just start looking at underhood fluid flow when that got decided...
And look at the copycats...
The fan shroud isn't just a shared component to keep costs down, somebody put thought to this.
To quote Josh (don't get to this often, well ok never): Just sayin'...
Someone at Ford decided the 6.4 would get side fender vents to exhaust hot air. My bet is they didn't just start looking at underhood fluid flow when that got decided...
Well I just got in from the test drive after the install of the NEW
140 AMP 6G alternator.
Did not take long to install it and what do you know....
I see ghosts. OOPS I meant I see 14.2V now when in the
past (Oh that is where the ghosts came from)I would see
12.0~12.7 and problems with cranking. I let if run for a while and took a trip
to the store and it started much better.
I may be able to get away with the stock pulley with not heavy AMP draw items.
I think the next thing on the list is a starter with the higher wattage, But you
know if the starter is drawing more it will take a bit longer to recharge the batteries
from a start.
Well I just got in from the test drive after the install of the NEW
140 AMP 6G alternator.
Did not take long to install it and what do you know....
I see ghosts. OOPS I meant I see 14.2V now when in the
past (Oh that is where the ghosts came from)I would see
12.0~12.7 and problems with cranking. I let if run for a while and took a trip
to the store and it started much better.
I may be able to get away with the stock pulley with not heavy AMP draw items.
I think the next thing on the list is a starter with the higher wattage, But you
know if the starter is drawing more it will take a bit longer to recharge the batteries
from a start.
Sean
Since both you and Cody just installed these and are seing the same volts, my guess is mine is the stocker that Josh referred to many posts ago and that it's a wee bit shy of the rated output. I'll see what the overdrive pulley does -- hopefully just right...
Someone did this Kinda Like your thinking well not really I didn't read the thread LOL
Put a Sheild around there FICM Under and up the sides with Open Top
Basicaly a Box around it with open top
In there Mind they was Blocking Heat from the Engine coming up
The Sheild held in the heat and Killed his FICM Fast
Ford should have put the FICM on the inner fender like the PCM.
E-Series is mounted away from the engine and International VT365 and VT275 is also mounted away from the engine. Hell, the VT275 delivery trucks have the FICM OUTSIDE, totally exposed!
Maybe rig up an external fan like a CPU processor...
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.