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Alternator taking a crap, time to replace!

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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 12:29 AM
  #166  
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Well when I told them I failed Hydro Test on a Cell in each battery they didn't test them

Autozone it was 2 weeks before 3 year Free replacement ran out they just hooked me up

Are you trying to get a warrenty Deal??
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 12:38 AM
  #167  
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From: Spanaway
Originally Posted by BLADE35
Well when I told them I failed Hydro Test on a Cell in each battery they didn't test them

Autozone it was 2 weeks before 3 year Free replacement ran out they just hooked me up

Are you trying to get a warrenty Deal??
Yep.

O'Reilly's and they are being a pain.

Sean
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 12:39 AM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by Texas Bob
If I needed to replace/upgrade my alternator today, I would consider a new Bosch AL7606N (with no core requirement) offered on Amazon for $151 plus state sales tax but no shipping cost. I've only owned one Bosch alternator which was on a '68 VW Fastback and it outlasted the car. Since the my truck is used mostly for towing on the road, I would stash the existing alternator 110 in the trailer for an emergency. And if I got eight years out of the Bosch, I would be satisfied.

Any thoughts on this approach?
I hope that's a good approach since it's the one I just took. My alternator is taking a dump, it would seem. It will occasionally hit 13.0 or so on my SGII, when 13.8-14.0 used to be the norm. I ordered the Bosch last night and will stash the old one away in the trailer just in case since it should still be good enough to finish the journey. Wish me luck...

ME2- Good luck and please report back your results with the Bosch alternator.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 01:25 AM
  #169  
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From: Spanaway
I was just looking at regulators for the 6G
and found that you can get them anywhere from 14.0 to 14.8
for the set point. Have a look.
The reason I got to looking was I took the 110 AMP one apart
just to see what was going on inside. I could hear a scraping.
Turns out the slip ring was going bad and very uneven brush ware.
I'll post some photos later. I found the slip ring kit on this page also.
Ford 6G Series Alternator Voltage Regulators

Sean
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 09:14 AM
  #170  
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From: Middle Tn.
Originally Posted by Yahiko
Yep.

O'Reilly's and they are being a pain.

Sean
I didn't have any paper work at AZ. They just ran my phone # in their computer and said I was good to go. Your O'Reillys doesn't sound like to good of a store to deal with.
 
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Old Aug 11, 2013 | 02:49 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by 69cj
I didn't have any paper work at AZ. They just ran my phone # in their computer and said I was good to go. Your O'Reillys doesn't sound like to good of a store to deal with.
That's all I had to do at AZ too


I also had the batterys pulled out the truck when I went in there

They did fail hydro test so and that's all I had to tell them At no time did they check

Plus I went into store about 5 minutes before closing I think they would have just about gave me anything LOL they wanted to go home

My free replacement was just about out so if they didn't want to make it right I was going to Nuetralize a cell or 2 with baking soda and kill the battery and take it back

I thought if they want to give me a Hassel bring it on
 
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Old Aug 20, 2013 | 09:58 PM
  #172  
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Big thank you to Bullitt390, did the 3g upgrade with the 58mm pulley. That sucker puts out some juice! Great bang for the buck!
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:04 AM
  #173  
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Sean,
I had the same issues with Oriellys. what I did was drive to the parking lot. turn off the truck, sit for 5 min turn the key on run the glow plugs and take the surface charge off the batteries. then go in and have them come out to test. then both batteries were at their "real" level. they then honored the warranty.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:13 AM
  #174  
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Originally Posted by olemoffat
Big thank you to Bullitt390, did the 3g upgrade with the 58mm pulley. That sucker puts out some juice! Great bang for the buck!
Nice! Another 3G in the 6.0 brotherhood.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:34 AM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by Bullitt390
E-Series is mounted away from the engine and International VT365 and VT275 is also mounted away from the engine. Hell, the VT275 delivery trucks have the FICM OUTSIDE, totally exposed!
in my experience, NOTHING in a E-350 diesel compartment is
mounted very far away from ANYTHING.

it's not mounted directly to the engine, but it's all of a half inch
away from it, it seems like. ed the ficm wizard says however,
that he's had very few ficm's fail on E series, compared to F
series... his remark was iirc "just a handful of E's have failed".
his speculation was that the isolation from vibration helped a lot.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:39 AM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Fulthrotl
in my experience, NOTHING in a E-350 diesel compartment is
mounted very far away from ANYTHING.

it's not mounted directly to the engine, but it's all of a half inch
away from it, it seems like. ed the ficm wizard says however,
that he's had very few ficm's fail on E series, compared to F
series... his remark was iirc "just a handful of E's have failed".
his speculation was that the isolation from vibration helped a lot.
1/2" more air gap can make a significant effect on heat.

Vibration too no doubt about that.

But that was in response to someone be opposed to outside air and rain possibly effecting the FICM... When international on their own trucks mount them outside totally exposed to the elements.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 12:31 PM
  #177  
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From: HERE
Originally Posted by Yahiko
I was just looking at regulators for the 6G
and found that you can get them anywhere from 14.0 to 14.8
for the set point. Have a look.
The reason I got to looking was I took the 110 AMP one apart
just to see what was going on inside. I could hear a scraping.
Turns out the slip ring was going bad and very uneven brush ware.
I'll post some photos later. I found the slip ring kit on this page also.
Ford 6G Series Alternator Voltage Regulators

Sean
Was gonna post a link to this website. Hadn't seen anyone reference them in this thread yet. They have some good info on this page as well.

6G Series High Output Alternator with Extra Heavy Duty Components


Also has anyone done this mod from the FICM repair page?

13. Upgrade your alternator wiring. Run a wire, preferably with an inline fuse in it, from the stud on the back of the alternator directly to the passenger side battery. Augment this with a wire from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the vehicle frame. Doing so will allow the alternator to begin charging the batteries immediately upon vehicle startup rather than having to wait for the glow plugs to turn off before charging is allowed as with the stock set up.

With an OEM alternator (though see #14 below), use not less than 4 gauge wire. With something bigger, go bigger. Many use 1/0 wiring (about the size of your thumb) for this task.


FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair

I replaced the alt and both batteries a year ago. Alt is a rebuilt Bosch unit from Napa that is showing 13.4-13.8 and occasionally up to 14 on SGII. I'd like it to be better than that so I want to do the 6g upgrade. BTW first alternator I got from Napa was bad. Started it up and after a few minutes voltage dropped off under 12.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:43 PM
  #178  
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Don't believe your scan gauge, like Josh pointed out it reads about .3 volts low which is exactly what my scan gauge does. Your puttin out fine.
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 09:50 PM
  #179  
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Originally Posted by geeride
Was gonna post a link to this website. Hadn't seen anyone reference them in this thread yet. They have some good info on this page as well.

6G Series High Output Alternator with Extra Heavy Duty Components


Also has anyone done this mod from the FICM repair page?

13. Upgrade your alternator wiring. Run a wire, preferably with an inline fuse in it, from the stud on the back of the alternator directly to the passenger side battery. Augment this with a wire from one of the alternator mounting bolts to the vehicle frame. Doing so will allow the alternator to begin charging the batteries immediately upon vehicle startup rather than having to wait for the glow plugs to turn off before charging is allowed as with the stock set up.

With an OEM alternator (though see #14 below), use not less than 4 gauge wire. With something bigger, go bigger. Many use 1/0 wiring (about the size of your thumb) for this task.

Replacing or piggybacking the wiring isn't going to improve much, if anything with a stock alternator.

When running 200+ amp alternators it would be a good idea to upgrade.

Josh
 
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Old Aug 21, 2013 | 10:15 PM
  #180  
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As far as that wiring mod goes there was some big downside to it that Ed explained to me but I forget. I was thinking it had something to do with burning the glow plugs out faster due to excessive charging.
 
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