Impact is the only way to go.

 

I hope that's a good approach since it's the one I just took. My alternator is taking a dump, it would seem. It will occasionally hit 13.0 or so on my SGII, when 13.8-14.0 used to be the norm. I ordered the Bosch last night and will stash the old one away in the trailer just in case since it should still be good enough to finish the journey. Wish me luck...

 

Well Good Luck!! I went back and looked at it again and the case and everything else I can compare looks exactly like my factory upgrade 140A unit. You gonna' try the overdrive pulley as well? I may try doing mine tomorrow, I'm battling a dribble from the newly installed coolant filter

 

I think those RAM Air Hoods would Push LOTS of Air threw there

But that style hood takes some getting used to for me

 

I might try the pulley, but I'm going to see how it does without it first.

 

Well after installing the NEW Alternator (Chinese)from the tag
I was getting good numbers after I started. Now I am not seeing the
good numbers as fast. So last night after it had been out for a good
drive I let it cool off for a few hours and dug out my battery tester.
I un-hooked the pair and took some readings 10 or above it a good
reading on this tester. My driver side battery was replaced back in
March under warrantee and it was reading a 10.2 and the passenger side
that they would not replace is reading 10.0 and when you read it a second
time it drops to 9.9 You can watch it drop during the reading unlink the
driver side that stabilized at 10.2 so.

How to deal with O'Reilly auto parts on this. If I drive in it will be hot
and charged up.

Note of FICM cooing. If you put a scoop somewhere on the grill that did
not block any airflow to other places that need it and use SCAT tubing
that is used in aviation to carry it to the FICM that would cool it during
forward movement.


Sean

Link for the tubing : http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/scat.php
This stuff is hard to kill.

 

What do you mean 10.2, 10.0 and 9.9? During cranking?

Engine off and after several minutes of rest the batteries should be 12.6 volts.

A battery is usually considered dead @ 12 volts even. It really depends on the strength of the acid and integrity of plates whether or not it can be charged and brought back to life.



Josh

 

Why not just measure battery voltage? Oreilly's has a load tester to load test each battery, have no idea what a "10" means on your tester.

Careful ducting air to the ficm, you might also duct rain water too...

 

Why would that be a problem? The International delivery trucks with VT275 engines have the FICM OUTSIDE, totally exposed.

Josh

 

When I took my truck to autozone I took an 8mm ratchet with me. Disconnected one lead on the driver battery and had them load test both batterys. One tested good one bad. They replaced both under warranty and even changed them out for me on the spot. Talk about service.

 

A duct would be cheaper then the ram air hood

I like the tubing Sean

 

I told Autozone that Mine Failed a Hydro test and had bad cells they didn't even test them

They just pointed at the new batterys and said get 2 New Ones

I popped in about 8 minutres before closing time LOL
I wanted batterys they wanted to go Home Fast and Painless

 

THe tool that was used does not use 12VDC like most would think.
It it uses a scale that is adjusted by what the CCA rheostat sets it too.
Any reading over 10.0 and you good for the selected CCA and any less
and it's weak the lower the number the weaker it is.
Anyway If I take the truck into a store it's been run so that is why I check at home.
Once it's been run the battery shows good/ok for a few hours.
I did stop on my way back from Seattle today and because they can't find my
paperwork for the batteries it more of a hassle to get them replaced. Most likely
I will just get a new set at Costco and keep the one that is the new one and find
a core for the it and let them have they pair that way. Costco have something
like $24 for a core fee on the silly things or was that Ford. I do know it seemed high.

Here is an Ebay link to the same tool I have
TIF 2700 Electrical System Analyzer | eBay
It's also available from Electrical Charging System Analyzer
It does extra things like AC ripple along with the normal voltage and amp
readings.

Battery tester range: 0-20 VDC
Load test range: 250-1200 CCA
Voltmeter range: 0-20V/0-200V
Ammeter range: 0-200A/0-1200A
"No-drain" pulsed battery tester
Simultaneous volts & amps readout
Inductive DC clamp-on ammeter
Continuity, diode, amps ripple test



Specifications:


Range:

Volts

0 - 199.9 VDC

Amps

0.0 - 1200 Amps

Diode Test

Go / No Go

Resolution:

Volts:

0.01 / 0.1

Amps:

0.1 / 1

Accuracy:

Battery:

+/- 1%, +/- 3 digit

V/A:

+/- 1%, +/- 1 digit

Operating Temperature:

320 to 1250 F (00 to 520 C)

Power Supply:

Four (4) 1.5 Volt "C" Batteries

Battery Life:

150 hours

Jaw/Clamp Capacity:

0.75" (1.9cm)

Cord Length:

18" (45.7cm)

Dimensions:

15.5" x 11" x 4" (39cm x 27cm x 10cm)

Weight:

5 lbs. (2.25 kg)




Sean

 

Sean are you saying that your Battery runs Down to much as it Sits??

Do you think its a Bad Cell??If so would you be willing to see if it fails a Hydro test??Too

I know you got that High tech Machine sounds like it does the Alt to??

 

Yes it does. It will read current and AC ripple. You get that when a diode is going.
I was going to do a Hydrometer test in the AM. The problem is the part store
wanting to do there own test. After running it........... You get the idea.

Sean