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As Bill said, you seem to have the advance hooked up correctly. However, I don't think the choke should be hooked to the port you have it to as it should have vacuum at all times. Right, Bill?
The choke pull-off needs vacuum at all times, if there is a choke heat tube fitting it should either be connected to a choke stove, open or looped to a source of clean air (Holley provides one on their carbs).
Well then thanks for the info guys, I had actually been reading that link you posted and was going to post it if you hadn't already. I will need to change my thermostat eventually since I have the wrong one now, but that can wait a bit. I don't really know what the heating tube is, I have all sorts of pictures I can get to on my laptop. It is a bit more difficult from a cell phone.
If you have a choke stove there should be a well in either your intake crossover or exhaust manifold that contains a coil of metal tubing that would connect to the choke housing with either an insulated metal line or a high temp orange/red silicone hose.
I don't think I have one of those... A lot of stuff wass changed on this truck before I got it and after. The original carb also didn't have anything going to the choke.
I love how a bunch of info that's not related to my truck gets on my thread haha.
I got my fuel pressure set to 5 PSI today, man that thing has way better throttle response now. Now all that's left to do is tap the threads for the mounting bracket and get it neat looking.
And Gary, you can romp on that thing all you want (which I never do) while it's running and never get a ping out of it. The 2000+ load yesterday was a good ping test, no ping. I backed the vacuum advance off a few turns one day and the ping got lighter. It never did this before the last time I put gas in it, last time I put gas in it, it was Chevron 87 octane.
Pinging (when things aren't set up correctly) is most evident under hard acceleration in higher gears. For example, you need to climb a hill, and that hill is slowing down the engine, and you step hard on the gas.
A different method of testing the fuel pressure. The first time I just unplugged the fuel line from the carb and attached the gauge from there and started it.
Yesterday I bought a Tee fitting so I could have fuel going to the engine, and have a barb to attach the fuel pressure gauge to, it read correct this time.
Also today when it was running I looked down the carb while it was running, I noticed from the fuel squirters at idle I would occasionally see them drip a drop of gas every few seconds or so, they would kind of dribble after I sped the engine up slightly and would steady out after a couple seconds of holding it at that position. Is that normal? I've never looked down a carb before while it was running.
Reading off a T fitting is only showing what your float valves are holding back.
Could you get an accurate water pressure reading if the spigot was open?
Well crap, which way is the most accurate then? it runs way better now than it did without it. There isn't as much fuel in the filter at all times anymore either.
I'm sure that your truck is running better now with the regulator in place.
And 5psi seems that it should be below the float shutoff point.
But really, the most positive reading would be with the gauge deadheaded as it was before.
If you have an electric pump you could jumper it with the engine off and look for fuel dribbling in the carb to see if the float is being overcome.
I'm sure Bill could chime in on this. He DID run a carb and tune-up shop afterall.
I'm sure that your truck is running better now with the regulator in place.
And 5psi seems that it should be below the float shutoff point.
But really, the most positive reading would be with the gauge deadheaded as it was before.
If you have an electric pump you could jumper it with the engine off and look for fuel dribbling in the carb to see if the float is being overcome.
I've got a mechanical pump, somehow I wound up with one of the worlds strongest stock mechanical fuel pumps, before it would read 10 PSI without the regulator and like 8-9 psi with it where it is about with the gauge deadhead.
EDIT: But with it like that it would also have a hell of a lot of pressure behind the gauge when I pulled it off, seems like that would give an inaccurate reading?
Yeah, I saw that.
That's why I said that Edelbrocks call for 5 psi in their literature.
Gary might have a 'better idea' too.
But he seemed just as surprised as me that you got it "fixed"
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