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1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Early Eighties Bullnose Ford Truck

1986 F-250 Progress Thread

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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:23 PM
  #121  
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My idea is that your current reading is probably accurate. That's exactly the pressure that the needles/seats are seeing and that's probably the way E'Brock would suggest you read it.

As for why the other reading didn't work, many regulators don't relieve too much pressure. So, if you start with more pressure than you want, say at 10 psi, and start turning the regulator down you won't get the reading that you would if you started at 3 psi and turned the pressure up. The regulator just doesn't have anywhere to put the excess fuel when you start out with too much.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:33 PM
  #122  
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So, it should read 5, if he were to deadhead it now?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #123  
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Yes, I think it would read 5 now deadheaded. Many air regulators vent the excess air, but gas and fluid regulators don't and don't regulate properly with no flow.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:43 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Yeah, I saw that.
That's why I said that Edelbrocks call for 5 psi in their literature.
Gary might have a 'better idea' too.
But he seemed just as surprised as me that you got it "fixed"
People must not have a lot of hope for me.....LOL.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 06:47 PM
  #125  
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If I dead head it now, it'll read just as the first time I tested it that way when I hooked the regulator up. I'll run it this way for a little bit and see how it does, but is it normal for a drop of gas to be coming out of the squirters every few seconds after it returns to idle? it seems to kind of stop dripping after idling for 4-5 seconds, same when I throttle up and hold it there for a few seconds.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:23 PM
  #126  
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I don't think it would read the same now because before you had pressure higher than 5 psi and you were turning it down. But, there was no place for the fuel to go so the pressure stayed up. Now you are starting at 5 psi so the pressure will initially show 5 psi. However, if there is any leakage out/past the regulator the pressure may climb slowly.

As for the drips, no it isn't normal. It sounds like the check ball isn't sealing properly in the accelerator pump circuit. You did put the weight back on top of it when you put the carb back together - right?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:26 PM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
I don't think it would read the same now because before you had pressure higher than 5 psi and you were turning it down. But, there was no place for the fuel to go so the pressure stayed up. Now you are starting at 5 psi so the pressure will initially show 5 psi. However, if there is any leakage out/past the regulator the pressure may climb slowly.

As for the drips, no it isn't normal. It sounds like the check ball isn't sealing properly in the accelerator pump circuit. You did put the weight back on top of it when you put the carb back together - right?
Yeah I did, in fact I don't quite remember there even being a check ball weight in there, but I sort of do. Next time I have the carb apart I'll check.]

When I first hooked it up, I had relieved pressure a few times, screwed the regulator all the way in and all the way out and it hardly changed with it dead head. Now it changes rapidly like it should when you adjust it while it's running.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:30 PM
  #128  
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Yup. As I said, there's no place for the 6 or 7 psi of fuel to go. All a regulator can do is stop letting more fuel in, but if it is already in there it can't very well spray it on the engine. So in deadhead mode you have to start with low pressure and come up to your set point.

If you take the carb apart use a Q-tip to clean out the seat where the check ball goes. And, make sure there's the weight on top of the ball. But, a drop every minute or so isn't a big problem.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:32 PM
  #129  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
Yup. As I said, there's no place for the 6 or 7 psi of fuel to go. All a regulator can do is stop letting more fuel in, but if it is already in there it can't very well spray it on the engine. So in deadhead mode you have to start with low pressure and come up to your set point.

If you take the carb apart use a Q-tip to clean out the seat where the check ball goes. And, make sure there's the weight on top of the ball. But, a drop every minute or so isn't a big problem.
I'll take it apart on a warm day, it's just a very small drip you can barely see every few seconds or so. In fact it looks more like a dribble instead of a drip lol.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:37 PM
  #130  
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Originally Posted by FordFETruck
...it's just a very small drip you can barely see every few seconds or so. In fact it looks more like a dribble instead of a drip lol.
I wouldn't think that's right.................
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:37 PM
  #131  
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I wouldn't think so either, which is why I asked. And no it's not right. Chris, what's the CFM of your carb? want to trade?
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 09:45 PM
  #132  
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No, it isn't right if it is every few seconds. That might be high float level, but I've never seen a Carter do that. Bill????
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:30 PM
  #133  
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Originally Posted by Gary Lewis
No, it isn't right if it is every few seconds. That might be high float level, but I've never seen a Carter do that. Bill????
Float levels are correct, I checked them last time I had the carb top off.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #134  
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I have a Holley Truck Avenger 670 CFM on my 400.
 
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Old Jan 14, 2013 | 10:54 PM
  #135  
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Originally Posted by ctubutis
I have a Holley Truck Avenger 670 CFM on my 400.
How do you like that carb? and how is it for mpg?
 
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