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I remember reading that a couple years ago. Very good info.
I actually run a Purolator L3001 myself, though I'm not sure if it's dropped my oil pressure a bit compared to the Motorcraft I used to run. I run about 25psi at hot idle and around 50 at cruising RPMs.
I'm not sure if the L30001 will give higher or lower oil pressure than the very free flowing Motorcraft FL-1A, but I've read of people saying they have higher oil pressure with the Purolator filters, I had a lot more typed a couple days ago but I lost power and lost all of what I had typed just as I was going to hit send reply.
I had a FL-1A leak on me at the seal once after I cleaned the sealing surface on the block and made sure there was no old gasket there. Just a fluke filter, replaced it with an L30001 and it stopped leaking.
Alright, today I got my fuel pressure regulator hooked up. It's the $20 Summit Racing /Holley (actually is a Holley) fuel pressure regulator. I took my fuel pressure readings with the gauge plugged in to the end of the fuel line, I have the adjustment screw out almost all the way and it will only bring it down to 7 PSI, and when I pull off the gauge it makes a big hiss noise and has a lot of pressure behind it. Would testing the fuel pressure with it set up inline be more accurate? now the fuel filter stays about half to 3/4 full instead of it being completely full all the time. It does sound better and rev up faster and smoother than before with it at 10+ psi. Plus it idles a little better.
I wouldn't think changing the location of the gauge would make any difference. So I don't understand why your pressure won't come down to 5 1/2 psi like it should. As for running better, the biggest problem with high pressure will be felt at idle where there isn't enough flow to take much of the pressure off. So you are making progress but aren't to where you should be.
Did Summit say the regulator would take the pressure down to 5? If so I'd call them and tell them what the problem is as the regulator may be bad.
In the late '70's I had a buddy that shoehorned an Olds Rocket 455 into a Cadillac Seville.
If you punched it from a stop you couldn't see a thing after the smoke came billowing out of the wheel wells.
While a 5.0L Mustang is left behind. The real laugh is a Honda or similar with a fart can, the look on the owner's face when a K-car lights the front tires and blows their doors off.
I wouldn't think changing the location of the gauge would make any difference. So I don't understand why your pressure won't come down to 5 1/2 psi like it should. As for running better, the biggest problem with high pressure will be felt at idle where there isn't enough flow to take much of the pressure off. So you are making progress but aren't to where you should be.
Did Summit say the regulator would take the pressure down to 5? If so I'd call them and tell them what the problem is as the regulator may be bad.
It's rated from 4.5 to 9 PSI. I find it really sick how one could be bad right out of the box when the part is so simple inside.
While a 5.0L Mustang is left behind. The real laugh is a Honda or similar with a fart can, the look on the owner's face when a K-car lights the front tires and blows their doors off.
I just woke up, and read this. That made my day!!!
Ok so today I got the casting numbers off of my engine, they were stamped just so I could see them past the starter. The numbers are E4AE-6015 FFA4. That first F might be an E but it looked like an F to me. 6D29 -April 29,1986. Which is weird because my truck was made September 27,1985.
Oh yeah by the way, my alternator that looks older than dirt says Motorcraft on it, same with the voltage regulator.
Also my drivers side cylinder head was made Febuary 14, 1980. I forgot the check the passenger side head but I'm sure it's close to the drivers side head.
Ok so today I got the casting numbers off of my engine, they were stamped just so I could see them past the starter. The numbers are E4AE-6015 FFA4. That first F might be an E but it looked like an F to me. 6D29 -April 29,1986. Which is weird because my truck was made September 27,1985.
Oh yeah by the way, my alternator that looks older than dirt says Motorcraft on it, same with the voltage regulator.
Also my drivers side cylinder head was made Febuary 14, 1980. I forgot the check the passenger side head but I'm sure it's close to the drivers side head.
Actually, the passenger's side head should be about 12" away from the driver's side head. Not sure if that is close in your book though.
Actually, the passenger's side head should be about 12" away from the driver's side head. Not sure if that is close in your book though.
Oh really? I thought it was about 14" away from the drivers side head?
So it looks like my engine isn't original. I was told it lost oil pressure and they rebuilt it but the original one probably threw a rod so they had rebuilt a replacement and installed it. Or did Ford pre date their castings? next set of numbers I'm gonna find is the transmission casting numbers.