Sorry Chad,
The pics didn't enlarge for me. I thought that looked like the reverse hub but I wasn't sure. Per my 1996 ASTG Update Manual, the bearing (Low Roller Clutch Assembly), WAS updated in 1994. The old upper snap ring, the brass bushing, the roller clutch assembly, and the lower snap ring have all been replaced by the new Plastic Caged Low Roller Clutch Assembly. None of the old parts should be re-used when re-assembling. FYI-the part number for the new Low Roller Clutch Assembly is F3TZ-7A089-A.
Instructions for assembly are as follows:
"1. Remove upper snap ring, brass bushing, roller clutch assembly, and lower snap ring and discard ALL parts."
"2. Install New Plastic Caged Low Roller Clutch Assembly through the REAR side of the Reverse Clutch Hub, with the tabs on the rear edge. Seat the Low Roller Clutch into the Reverse Clutch Hub, and rotate clockwise to seat rollers and lock tabs in place."
"If the Plastic Caged Low Roller Clutch Assembly is installed INCORRECTLY, the Reverse Hub will freewheel in both directions"

I'm not sure of which parts you were debating on replacing but if I were doing my transmission, I would'nt use any parts showing wear, and particularly gouging . I'm not sure if this will help you but here is an ebay auction item which appears to be the proper parts you're seeking:

C6 E4OD 4R100 6 PINION STEEL REAR PLANET & DRUM UPDATE:eBay Motors (item 260138200680 end time Jun-29-09 18:25:57 PDT)

Hope this helps,
R.A.

 

Found more problems. Forward hub and ring gear assembly is wasted, the plastic thrust washer is about 1mm thick and the planetary gear assembly barely rotates on the forward hub by hand. Its probably wear the steel and alloy shavings came from in the first place, would explain the steel stuck on the magnet in the pan.

I'll be getting an update book on this before I buy any other parts for my other tranny thats on the way out the door-knock on wood its still working.

Thanks for the links, I looked at more of the update parts and drooled over those. I may have to get 2 more frictions for the one assembly since its supposed to better-memory eludes me to what one it is.

 

DIESELZEN, I just joined the forum as I have a 94 with E40D issues of hard shifts. could you send me a zip file as well so I can see whats involved in the repair. thanks in advance. email sent

 

Ok, I see that in order to email others I need to be on 30 days or 25 posts...could I request someone who has the zip file to email it to me from the email in my profile. I would appreciate it and thanks in advance for the assistance. tom

 

"DIESELZEN" an chance i could get a copy of that zip file please. i'm rebuilding a 4r100 trans ,here in ireland and any info would be grateful.
i could supply a 9 page part numbers and exploded view of he E4OD/4R100
TRANS, IN RETURN.

EMAIL: ROBERT-RYAN@HOTMAIL.COM

THANK YOU

 

Howdy, I'm working on installing a shift kit in my E4OD, so while not directly related to rebuilding E4ODs my question still pertains to the subject - the main valve body has two parts, a large upper part and a smaller lower part, between the upper part and the trans case there is a huge separator plate with thin gaskets on both sides, however between the smaller lower part and the large upper part of the valve body there is another smaller separator plate, but that one has no gaskets on it. Is the small separator plate between the two halfs of the valve body supposed to have gaskets on it too? Mine didn't have them, and I don't think my main valve body has ever been taken apart before, I found some Transgo springs in the accumulator body but it seems to me that whoever worked on that before me realized ho much work it is to get to the big separator plate so they only did the accumulator body and called it a day. Transmission shifted good before I tear it apart, but I wanna make sure I ain't missing something before I put the pan back up and fill her with ATF again.

 

Hi M.L.S.C.,
I'm assuming the smaller separator plate you're refering to is the valve body separator plate sandwiched between the lower control body and the main control body. Perusing my E4OD material I see no gasket(s) shown either in the exploded view diagrams, or listed in their numbered part listings.
Regarding the two gaskets on either side of the separator plate, per my rebuild manual, upon reassembly it seems to be okay to re-use the case to separator plate gasket, but it appears that a new gasket should be used between the separator plate and the control bodies. I don't know what year your transmission was built but there were 3 different separator plates used in the E4OD (and hence, three different gasket sets.). For identification purposes, the 1989 ONLY gaskets have no colored stripes on either gasket. The 1990-95 gaskets have yellow stripes on them. The 1996 and up gaskets have green stripes on them.
Hope this helps,
R.A.

 

Thanks man, your information coincides with what someone who rebuilt his own E4OD told me - no gaskets on the small separator plate. My transmission is a 1990 unit. I ended up reusing both gaskets on the main separator plate, as they were both in good shape (not rushed or dented in by the case and the control bodies). Transmission shift nice now, the shift kit itself is a nice upgrade over factory, then I also used a .427" modulator valve and a 10-ohm EPC line resistor, and I'm very happy with the results - shifts just as quick as it did before the hardware mods but with a 50-ohm resistor, only not it don't hit as hard and the torque converter seems to lock up a bit stronger too.

On a side note, if anyone is working on an E4OD and dropping the solenoid pack, you may wanna very closely inspect the connector for it on the harness side - I was randomly losing OD on my test drives yesterday, when it happened I also lost TCC lockup and that's on a manual switch so I knew it ain't no PCM issue - turned out the wires were pretty chewed up where they enter the connector for the solenoid pack, most had the insulation rubbed through, and two were halfway broken - no wonder the thing was acting up, who knows what was shorting out where.

 

I posted this earlier. I am looking for a good Transmission shop in San Diego that speak English.

 

w6pea,
Sorry, don't know about any trans. rebuilders in San Diego. Maybe someone else can help.
Have you drawn the codes off the computer to find out what it is seeing as wrong?
Have you checked all the sensors to make sure they are all giving the proper signals to the computer.
I'd do that first just in case it's something electronic instead of plunking down big bucks on a rebuild. If you need instructions on how to test the sensors, I have a file which will give you the information you need. Just send me an email to:

thecabin at gulftel dot com

R.A.

 

Could someone email me that zip file to gordo89@yahoo.com?

Thanks,
Gordy

 

I'm having a problem with the trans not going into OD. It's on a 95 Powerstroke. I had no light at the shifter now I have the light (fixed the bad wire in the switch wire harness in the steering column). Now I can press the button and notice that if I flip the OD to Overdrive OFF the Torque Converter will stay locked up in 3rd gear. However, if I flip it to OD back ON it will stay in 3rd gear. But no Torque Converter Lockup and no 4th gear.

Where do I start? Also... the OD light is NOT blinking.

 

Hi Nick,
The first thing I'd do is draw the codes off the computer and find out what it sees.
R.A.

 

Thanks! My OD light isn't blinking. Doesn't that mean there are no codes trans related? The OD light does work by the way.

I'm trying to avoid the dealership's scan tool because they charge $85!!!! Yikes!

 

Sometimes the computer won't set codes but it's worth a try. You can get a cheapy scan tool ($30-$35) at Walmart or an Auto Parts store.
If you had 3-4 shift before you fixed the light, perhaps you've created a closed circuit while fixing the wire, keeping the trans. in 3rd. It might be best, for diagnostics, to undo the repair and see if you get 3-4 back again, then try a different repair method.
R.A.