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Ok, here's the update. The first pic is of the original, factory-spec plugs, the ASF-42C's. The second pic is of the colder plugs, and they are ASF-32C's. And, these are plugs from the same cylinders in both pictures: #4 on the left & #8 on the right.
The ones in the first pic probably have ~500 miles on them in that picture, and the ones in the second pic have maybe 80 miles on them, although most of that was at 62 MPH on the freeway.
My thoughts are that the new plugs look new (Geez, give them some break in time, Gary. ) and that the old plugs look almost new.
The old plugs have just a hair of tan, but they're both almost completely white?
Is your fuel mixture way too lean or something? I mean, the old-ish ones don't even look ashy to me. You can see where they've had heat on the tip and been used though.
James says I'm out of phase on the shaft. He looked. Will fix this afternoon if mowing doesn't get in the way.
That guy is a drivetrane wizard. I saw the shaft the other day after it came home to his house. It looked brand spanking new. That deal he made you was a smoking deal. That would have cost anybody coming off the street at least $300. The slip and stub has no slack in it at all. Also he put on one of the dana slips that has the grease zerk on it. Give that sucker a pump or two whenever you service it and that slip and stub will last forever.
Did he mention the u joint issue to you? If not he was telling me that he wasnt 100% that was the correct joint. He didnt have the old one to compare it to. Should it turn out to be the wrong one all that has to be done is to run the caps off of the old one. You might want to swap the needle bearings also. Hopefully it is the correct joint for the flange yoke.
My thoughts are that the new plugs look new (Geez, give them some break in time, Gary. ) and that the old plugs look almost new.
The old plugs have just a hair of tan, but they're both almost completely white?
Is your fuel mixture way too lean or something? I mean, the old-ish ones don't even look ashy to me. You can see where they've had heat on the tip and been used though.
There are two schools of thought on this. One is that it is too lean, as witnessed by the white insulator, and the heat from that is causing the melting/discoloration on the electrodes. The other is that it may be lean but it runs very well and gives good mileage, so try colder plugs to get around the melting/discoloration.
Given the good MPG I'm getting I'm inclined to go with the latter thinking. If colder plugs resolve the heat issue then let it run lean as long as it runs well, and it certainly does. You views would be appreciated, though.
Originally Posted by bruno2
That guy is a drivetrane wizard. I saw the shaft the other day after it came home to his house. It looked brand spanking new. That deal he made you was a smoking deal. That would have cost anybody coming off the street at least $300. The slip and stub has no slack in it at all. Also he put on one of the dana slips that has the grease zerk on it. Give that sucker a pump or two whenever you service it and that slip and stub will last forever.
Did he mention the u joint issue to you? If not he was telling me that he wasnt 100% that was the correct joint. He didnt have the old one to compare it to. Should it turn out to be the wrong one all that has to be done is to run the caps off of the old one. You might want to swap the needle bearings also. Hopefully it is the correct joint for the flange yoke.
Yes, that was a good deal. And, by the way, does James work on ZF5's????
He did mention the joint, and we agreed that if the caps on his joint don't fit my yoke but the caps from the new joint I have fit that cross then I should run them. (If you didn't know what I was talking about you wouldn't know what I was talking about. )
It's still lean, but you aren't burning the plugs anymore. I would run it, but maybe try one step richer on the cruise on that AFB, just track your mileage, if it falls off, go back, if it is too lean, it may pick up on the highway.
Yes he does some. Those trannys are so hard to tear up they dont see many of them. James and Scott rebuilt the one in my F-250 and has been running for 5-6 yrs. Like I said earlier I have a diesel ZF5 with a broken bellhousing(aka front case half). I bought a good case half at the jy and we are going to swap them once I get caught up to the world.
It's still lean, but you aren't burning the plugs anymore. I would run it, but maybe try one step richer on the cruise on that AFB, just track your mileage, if it falls off, go back, if it is too lean, it may pick up on the highway.
I think I'll run them for a while. Planning to go see Dad on Saturday and may take Rusty. Will continue to track mileage. Then I may put in the rods I have that are the first recommended step. And, being just a rod change is duck-soup.
Originally Posted by bruno2
Yes he does some. Those trannys are so hard to tear up they dont see many of them. James and Scott rebuilt the one in my F-250 and has been running for 5-6 yrs. Like I said earlier I have a diesel ZF5 with a broken bellhousing(aka front case half). I bought a good case half at the jy and we are going to swap them once I get caught up to the world.
Are you wanting to swap inputs on yours possibly?
Let's take this discussion to Dad's ZF5 Swap. But, yes it is a consideration.
In the ~75 mile trip today I got a little puddle of oil on the back of the block. But, the oil pressure sending unit and associated plumbing is dry. Still getting a drip from the clutch area after a drive, but I'm not sure if it is rear main or the rear seal of the valley pan. Think I'll put a shop towel around the oil pressure plumbing for the next trip in order to catch oil there to see if that's the source of the drip from the clutch.
Looks like a partial tear-down is due when I swap it into Dad's truck.
In the ~75 mile trip today I got a little puddle of oil on the back of the block. But, the oil pressure sending unit and associated plumbing is dry. Still getting a drip from the clutch area after a drive, but I'm not sure if it is rear main or the rear seal of the valley pan. Think I'll put a shop towel around the oil pressure plumbing for the next trip in order to catch oil there to see if that's the source of the drip from the clutch.
Looks like a partial tear-down is due when I swap it into Dad's truck.
Gary, if I remember correctly, Rusty's 351M has an Eddy Performer manifold on it, correct?
If so, I wouldn't be surprised if your rear intake gasket is leaking. If the 351M/400 Performers weigh anywhere close to what the stock 2bbl manifolds do, then I bet whoever installed that Eddy had a fun time keeping that gasket in-line, especially since that back edge of the block is so thin and narrow.
Either that or the Performer was installed so long ago that the gasket has dried up already.
Gary, if I remember correctly, Rusty's 351M has an Eddy Performer manifold on it, correct?
If so, I wouldn't be surprised if your rear intake gasket is leaking. If the 351M/400 Performers weigh anywhere close to what the stock 2bbl manifolds do, then I bet whoever installed that Eddy had a fun time keeping that gasket in-line, especially since that back edge of the block is so thin and narrow.
Either that or the Performer was installed so long ago that the gasket has dried up already.
Shaun,
I have a Performer 400 EGR, it's light enough to toss around with one hand.
Most people I know (including out here) say to not use the included end gaskets and use black RTV instead.