When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Yup, it actually works really well as proven tonight. I was out running around with a friend to the mall and stuff and it was pretty dang cold out. Once the needle got to about where it is in the picture, it was safe to turn the heater on, as long as I wasn't driving. When I am driving I get cold air from under the truck blasting through the giant hole where my 4wd shifter comes up through. I need to find a new boot and screw it down to solve that issue but last I checked the JunkYard only had newer model ones or the ones that have the manual tranny so it has 2 holes. Oh well, I can manage.
Sometimes I wish my dash had heater ducts routed to it. Maybe someday I will pull the heater system out of one that had it and route it myself. Cutting up the dash would kind of suck though.
I think next on my list besides pulling the rear drums off to inspect the hardware and adjust them if needed, I need to yank out all the wiring for the aftermarket gauge that doesn't seem to work anymore. The wire didn't seem to want to unplug last time I tried but it might be a twist on. Or I can snip it off.
Hey Brett! Long time no see. As far as I remember there was no other wires going to the aftermarket gauge. There shouldn't be any issues with just snipping it and pulling everything out. Also thanks for the boot fix tip, I might have to try it.
SDElwood that isn't a bad idea to use old hose as a grommet. Was this just a random tip though? Hahaha I probably should have tried that with my sub wires and speaker wires.
Ok so after discussing stuff with a fellow FTE member, I think before I do an engine rebuild, I will get the exhaust done. I can currently afford that where I cannot afford a rebuild yet.
Where I am stuck at is the pipe size. The mufflers listed are 2.5, I want a 3" exit though If I went 2.5 to the muffler then 3" out, I would need to get reducers coming from the headers since the collectors are 3", then get an expander coming out of the muffler since they don't have a 2.5 in, 3" out. Buying 2 reducers then 2 expander just adds to the cost. It seems like it would be better for the wallet and make more sense to just run everything in 3".
I know of a place who has worked on 78 bronco exhaust systems and he said it shouldn't be an issue routing pipes, every vehicle is different but he would find a way. I want to run just plain jane true dual from headers all the way back to come out behind the tires. He asked if it would be an off road kind of rig and I told him yes, so he said in that case we would figure out the best ways to tuck everything in and keep it from hanging low anywhere. I would need to bring the truck down after i have bought the headers and mufflers and me and the shop owner would put the bronco up and kind of map out where everything needs to go. It seems simple enough and after my tax return I could probably do it. The total price, I think, is around $600 or so if I buy the parts and he does the piping.
The other thing is, I might have to rehang everything after the body lift has been removed. Depends on how the guy hangs the pipes.
I had planned on rebuilding an engine and swapping mine out or something but since I could afford an exhaust system, why not. A motor rebuild will run me a pretty penny either way so waiting is my best option.
So I think tomorrow I will go ahead and play with the rear end on the bronco. Count the ratio and check out why my rear brakes are horrible.
Just to assure myself, you put 1 mark on the tire, and one on the drive line. Rotate the tire once and count how many revolutions the drive line makes. And that tells the ratio? Also I asked my brother about it and he said I can just leave it in neutral and jack the rear end up and let both tires spin. When me and another guy did it he said to leave one tire on the ground and have both the t-case and trans in neutral.
Anyways I am anticipating finding out what I have, it would be nice to finally know for sure.
If both tires are off the ground and spin that I don't think the drive shaft will turn. One tire on the ground is how I would do it also. Only the tranfer need be in neutral but both wont matter for this. Please use jack stands and block the front tires both ways. And have someone else there with ya just in case.
If both tires are off the ground and spin that I don't think the drive shaft will turn. One tire on the ground is how I would do it also. Only the tranfer need be in neutral but both wont matter for this.
I thought so... Well I guess we will see if I actually do get any work done tomorrow
Haha, I don't have any hard bodies around here. They are all plastic
Were you talking to me or Matt? And what did you get reamed for? Haha.
I was talkin to you, but Matt is fast too. And Wolfie was still checkin his spelling and editing his post as I was and wasn't ready to have it quoted and answered. I think I called him out on something he was still editing. No biggie as we all do it I guess. Most of the time some of us post it up than re read it again and decide to add to it or fix something we missed when we first edited it. IDK. It's time for bed for me. Night all
I was talkin to you, but Matt is fast too. And Wolfie was still checkin his spelling and editing his post as I was and wasn't ready to have it quoted and answered. I think I called him out on something he was still editing. No biggie as we all do it I guess. Most of the time some of us post it up than re read it again and decide to add to it or fix something we missed when we first edited it. IDK. It's time for bed for me. Night all
Oooh ok, sorry I didn't notice haha. I am not much of a stickler for spelling. I am just trying to get mine to be a bit better myself, but as long as it is legible I don't mind.
I also sometimes go back and edit a post to add more info in case someone has posted while I was typing up my post. It happens. Anyways, have a good night.