My owners manual says my truck takes 6 quarts, but when I add 6 quarts and fill the filter it's not even half way up the stick, seems like it takes 7-7.25 to get it just above the full mark. Kind of weird

 

Maybe you have an aftermarket oil pan.

 

Maybe, looks old as hell and stock to me though lol

 

Oh. Hmm well i don't know then, that's kind of weird. Is the dipstick original?

 

Yep, even has the E5TA -xxxx stamping on it.

Although it has been bent to a different curve to get around the header but it's not that much different than it originally was. Still reads the same as it did before I messed with it.

 

Hmm that's pretty weird.

 

Hmm so i was thinking about setting up an IRC channel for FTE to make it easier to talk. That way we don't have to continuously post on the threads and wait for a response. I have the embedding code but i don't really know where to put it or if i should try to put it somewhere.

 

What's an IRC channel? I am half dumb when it comes to computer stuff lol

 

Ha np IRC stands for Internet Relay Chat. It's a basic form of chat that used to be used by offices for chatting between people. There are a lot of servers that use it and lots of people that use it now for a lot of different things. I might speak to a mod about it. I already have a channel crated for it.

 

Sounds like a good idea to me, replying to posts constantly gets annoying lol

 

Nothing here anymore. Moved to a different thread.

 

Ok so what you do is enter a nickname that you want, then fill in the words or letters you see in the captcha picture then hit the connect button. It should automatically put you in the FTE channel.

 

Alright, i am pretty sure i brought this up before but here we go again. So i want to get my temp gauge to work again, Right now i have that tacky aftermarket one that no longer works. There is what looks to be a sending unit up at the top radiator inlet hose. I am thinking i can get a new one here: Duralast/Temperature Switch (TU25) | AutoZone.com

Then i just need to wire up the OEM gauge in the dash right? However i amnot sure where the plug is for it.

Here you see the sending unit i mean. There is a plug towards the very bottom of the picture that kind of blends in with the background. I could try replacing that sending unit and plugging it in then warming up. Thoughts?

 

Got myself a long story here that I also posted on the "What did you do to your bronco" thread. Here it is:

I did some work on TGM today, I timed it so it runs a little better when warm. I'm not sure about cold yet but tomorrow I will know. The reason I timed it was because when I let off the throttle after driving fast or getting the RPMs up, it would pop and backfire a lot. After fixing the the choke linkage I had, I found out that my vac advance was hooked up to the wrong vac port on the carb (thanks to FordFETruck for pointing it out). After swapping it to the right one, I noticed it popped and backfired either through the carb or the exhaust quite a bit. I figured it was timing since I hadn't adjusted it since I put the 4bbl intake/carb on the motor. Once I hooked my timing light up, it looked like the timing was fine and right at 14* BTDC like the book says. I raised it and lowered it and played with it for a while before putting it a few degrees higher and locking it in. Test drove it and I only heard some low backfiring which was a big improvement from before. After wards i put it back to where my 14* line is and locked it in and it seemed to be fine except for 2 issues I have now... Issue #1 is starting when warm. It pings a bit and when cranking it will start to rotate then stop, then start again and stop, almost as if it was binding or hitting something. From having experience with this issue I figure the timing is too advanced but when I lower it the backfiring comes back and it doesn't run as smooth. So I either deal with hard starting or running bad and backfiring, unless there is something to fix it that I can do easily.

Problem #2 is when in gear and I barely start pushing the throttle it missfires and shakes really bad but once I give it a little more gas, it purs like a kitten. Another member (FordFETruck) mentioned that my high idle needs to be adjusted. Is this true? It doesn't seem like doing that would really help besides raising the idle, it sounds more like a fuel delivery issue or something. Any ideas?


Other than the stuff above, I had a really bad squeak coming from the fiberglass top where it meets the roof. I figured tightening the bolts would probably cure it and I was right. What I didn't expect was that one of the new speed nuts I installed happens to be stripped. Of course since I have all the other bolts in, I am not super worried about missing a 3rd one but I was surprised since this hardware is fairly new. After finding this out and removing the bolt in question, it got me thinking. Has anyone come up with a modification that would eliminate the use of these annoying speed nuts, and make fastening the top down a little easier? I don't really know how you would get to the back of the bolt holes to put some sort of welded nut in there or whatever but maybe someone has come up with a better idea. Or maybe it is just my fault for not buying my hardware from Ford since they charge so much for everything.

 

The bounce back on the starter is probably from the timing, try retarding it to 12* BTDC for a test to see if it stops doing that. The high idle adjustment is only for cold start, by the time you get ready to drive it away after it's warmed up for a few minutes it should be off high idle.