Ahhh I don't think I do. I know we have a pressure on for things like cylinder pressure but I don't think we have a vacuum one.

 

If you ever pick one up then you could really fine tune the idle screws lol, just keep messing with them until you get the highest vacuum reading.

 

Yeah that would be nice. I bet my neighbor has one and could fine tune it.

 

Use the money to put a straight up aftermarket timing set in your Bronco Dylan. Believe me you will wonder why you haven't yet and will never look back. It is one of the best upgrade you will ever make. You will think you have a new engine with a lot more power than you thought possible.

 

That is one possibility i could do. Except i don't really have the details yet i don't think. Such as if all my coolant will end up in the oil pan or what gaskets i will need and such. I could buy the gears and chain but it might sit around while i research everything. I guess i could live with that for the time being.

 

Basically all you'll need for gaskets are the timing cover gasket set, the $11 one. Coolant needs to be drained (good time to flush the cooling system lol) the timing chain and oil, and a new filter. Usually when ever you open some part of the engine up you want to change the oil haha, chances are there's gonna be crap falling in the oil anyways.

 

lovely.. timing cover gaskets.. maybe pull the cam too and put a new one? it may be the lower intake gasket

 

You still have the class act signature I see lol

 

lmao.......

 

Lower intake gasket? And why pull the cam too? I think that would be for when I pull the motor to rebuild the whole thing. What I will probably do is just get the chain/gears and gasket, then when I do the work and get it finished I can change the oil. That way I don't have a lot of oil just laying around.

 

I don't know what he meant by lower intake gasket either, but when you do it change the oil before you start it, also just curious what oil and filter do you use? I use Rotella T 15w40 with a Purolator classic L30001 filter (50 cents cheaper than the Fram and way better too lol)

 

You mean drain the oil first? I use whatever is cheap at walmart... Probably not the best choice but an old truck like mine doesn't care as long as it isn't synthetic. It will all leak out of the rear main eventually.

 

No, do the engine work first so if anything gets in the oil it will fall to the bottom, then before you're ready to start it change the oil.

That's a bad idea especially with the hydraulic flat tappet cam, the majority of oils now days don't zinc and phosphorus, or a high enough level. which are big anti wear additives, only found in most diesel oils now like Shell Rotella, Mobil Delvac, and Chevron Delo. Delo is weird **** though, it made all of my mowers smoke and burn it and when I switched to Rotella that stopped. The zinc makes the lifters spin in the bores (and protects cam lobe and lifter faces) and with low or even too high amounts it will cause them not to spin properly and wipe the cam lobe out. Any new oil like 10w30 or gasoline rated oils like SN or SM rated and stuff like that aren't good for the cams. I put Chevron supreme 10w30 SN rated in my engine and within 20 miles my magnetic drain plug was like a fluff ball and there were metal shavings in my oil, not sure what that was about thought might have been from me scrubbing the lifter valley clean. But I put the 15w40 supertech in for a short flush and it quit doing that. Sorry for the oil lecture lol. Even the supertech 15w40 is very low in zinc and I need to get that stuff out of there fast.

 

The lecture is fine but engine wear isn't my biggest concern. My motor has well over 200k on it and is 35+ years old. If anything the bigger problem is that a majority of the time I run -1 quart of oil. The rear main leaks enough to drain about a quart out and until I can get the time and place to drop the trans and t-case it won't get fixed. Besides I can assure you that this truck has seen worse wear and tear than the oil can provide.

Another thing I just remembered, I think I have stock heads, nothing fancy just Cleveland heads. the difference is in the block though, it doesn't have coolant going through the heads and intake on an M block.

 

rotella diesel oil is good stuff.. i would run it everyday in my gas truck if i could