Usually the gears are worn out along with the stretched, just toss the old worn retarded cut timing chain and gears in the trash and install something like that Comp Cams timing set lol. Plus it probably has the plastic teeth crap gears. a harmonic balancer puller is needed. I think I've seen them at Harbor Freight for like $10. My neighbor gave me a Haynes manual and it has all of that stuff in there.




As you can see there's quite of a wideness difference between the single and double roller chains haha.

 

Dang thing won't post two pictures in one post.

 

Yeah i noticed that on the websites. I'm sure my neighbor has the tools i need, he does that kind of stuff all the time. He probably can also tell me how to get it all done. It's probably easier than i think but you never know whats behind that cover.

 

Yeah haha, there's always something little that causes problems, like that harmonic balancer bolt washer silicone'd up in there, I fought with that thing for 10 minutes sweating my brains out before I looked in there and saw that, needless to say it pissed me off haha.

 

It's going to suck working on that with my truck, i will have to be leaning over the grill a lot i think. So after the new gears and chain is there any issues with the balancer being thrown off due to the new weight from the gears?

 

Nope, there shouldn't be any problem like that at all. When I put my engine back together I leaned over my grille for 12 hours on a 90 degree August day, my side hurt for a month after that lol, and I was standing on a stool to help me out a lot of the time too.

 

I don't have a choice but to stand on a step stool, otherwise it's on my bumper. I noticed in your pics that the front of the oil pan is open, any issues with getting coolant in there? Also i will probably need a gasket too right?

 

Yeah my oil pan is open, and I got a lot of coolant in there. I changed it before I started it and let it drain good lol. I think the gasket set that comes with the gasket, water pump gasket and front main seal is around $10.

EDIT: http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...=68115_0_7907_

$11.99 lol. Same exact price as mine was. Also, I'm not sure if yours has an oil pan that bolts to the timing cover like mine, but if it does. Get some Grey RTV silicone or Honda Bond 4 (same stuff between the two apparently) and coat the gasket mating surfaces and around the water ports especially. I used the Honda Bond 4 on my timing cover and intake coolant ports and the stuff seals great and is easy to get back off if ever needed to lol. I'm starting to sound like a tyrant tonight haha, might be because I'm tired as hell lol

 

Alright well thanks for the info. Later on down the road i will have to come back to this issue. I kind of hope i won't have to do all the oil and gasket for that, it's a pain in the butt to drain the oil without making a mess. My drain pans don't have the capacity for 6+ quarts of oil... I'm fairly tired but probably won't be in bed for at least another hour. I'm generally up till 4-5am.

 

With yours a 5 gallon bucket should do lol, I always have 7 quarts in my truck, that brings it just slightly above the full mark. A 5 gallon is just slightly too tall to fit under there.

Also, time the engine work when it needs an oil change, that'll make it easier haha

 

Yeah i don't think a bucket would really fit though... The engine is at stock height still and the plug is kind of over the front diff and all the steering links under there. Last time i shoved some cardboard in there to make the oil run down into the pan, it worked for the most part till the drain pan overflowed a bit... I will work something out, maybe time the change right and let the rear main seal leak enough oil out to drop tit 5 quarts or something. If i didn't have to drop the tranny i think that rear main would be done a while ago.

 

Last post for now, looks like it snowed a tiny bit My deck and the tops of my vehicles are white and from my room it looks like snow but idk for sure. I hope so though.

 

Alright as i type this i am uploading a video of the truck running to youtube. I saw what you ment matt by the lower port on the carb, though neither port had vacuum till i hit the gas. The passenger side was a bit stronger but not a while lot. Once it finishes uploading i will throw it in this post for the world to see You also get to hear my exhaust leak that developed last month. It's worse than before.

EDIT: Alright she's live.
<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/OOCmj-Zd_JQ" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

 

The choke looked like it was open enough when it started, but it sounded like there was no high idle. If you open the throttle all the way there will be a screw under there for high idle adjustment, turn it in a bit. It should be at around 1500 RPM for high idle when it starts. Also, does the choke close completely or does it always stay partly open like that? it should close all the way then open up to about where it was when it started. And are those Edelbrock performer rpm heads? lucky lol

 

So I think I know about that high idle screw, should I adjust it while it's cold then? No it won't close completely unless I manually close it with my finger, where it is at the start was as far as the small peg that is moved by the spring will go. When I close it more the rpms go up since it is restricting the air going in. If I make the linkage any longer it just jams up and won't move at all. A manual choke conversion may be the way to get it perfect. I guess after Xmas if I don't have it working as it should, then I can look into something else. Otherwise this is what I got to work with.

On a different note I noticed my phone did really well with the exhaust. My old one just sounded like Crap. Haha had to point it out.