NO Start
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I don't get it.
I untaped the engine harness and exposed the yellow/red wire again and checked the voltage, it was 0.36. So, I jiggled, pulled, pushed, shook and yelled at and massaged every damn inch of the yellow/red trying to lose the voltage. It is rock solid. I even jiggled the wires going into the 42 pin connector. Rock solid!
Maybe it was just a conincidence when I undid the harness that I was able to get the 0.36 volts. I taped it up again and ran an extra wire into the harness just in case. Maybe the ICP is going bad. Maybe I am going MAD!
I untaped the engine harness and exposed the yellow/red wire again and checked the voltage, it was 0.36. So, I jiggled, pulled, pushed, shook and yelled at and massaged every damn inch of the yellow/red trying to lose the voltage. It is rock solid. I even jiggled the wires going into the 42 pin connector. Rock solid!
Maybe it was just a conincidence when I undid the harness that I was able to get the 0.36 volts. I taped it up again and ran an extra wire into the harness just in case. Maybe the ICP is going bad. Maybe I am going MAD!
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Fired up the truck this morning and took it to Performance diesel and the guy read a p603 code. The truck ran like crap all the way down there until it got good and warm, then it ran fine. He suggested starting with a new CMP. I had just replaced it,but it was from Oreilly auto so I went to International and bought one. Put it on, and the truck runs fine, although it was running fine when I got home, so we will see. Maybe?
Postmaster
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 4,195
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From: Medford Oregon
Fired up the truck this morning and took it to Performance diesel and the guy read a p603 code. The truck ran like crap all the way down there until it got good and warm, then it ran fine. He suggested starting with a new CMP. I had just replaced it,but it was from Oreilly auto so I went to International and bought one. Put it on, and the truck runs fine, although it was running fine when I got home, so we will see. Maybe?
I think you had multiple issues which are very hard to troubleshoot. I think you got the IPR circuit issue resolved, hope so. The CMP or CPS would not surprise me as when the engine heats up things expand and can cause clearance issues. Good call on the international part IMO. Sometimes when troubleshooting replacing multiple parts without replacing original causes more issues than not.
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I think the fuel pump is going out.
I started it up in driveway and it kept dying, but if I would depress the accelerator pedal it would keep going.
When I just let it idle, it would change noises, like real loud and then soft. I took it down the road and it did the same thing. Felt like it was going in and out of power, but not missing. Like it was starving for fuel.
Finally the check engine light came on and I barely made it home it was running so bad. When I shut it off, my check engine light was still on. I checked the voltage of the red/yellow line of the IPR and it was 0.36, so I don't think that is an issue anymore.
Other than checking schrader valve how do you check the fuel pump?
I started it up in driveway and it kept dying, but if I would depress the accelerator pedal it would keep going.
When I just let it idle, it would change noises, like real loud and then soft. I took it down the road and it did the same thing. Felt like it was going in and out of power, but not missing. Like it was starving for fuel.
Finally the check engine light came on and I barely made it home it was running so bad. When I shut it off, my check engine light was still on. I checked the voltage of the red/yellow line of the IPR and it was 0.36, so I don't think that is an issue anymore.
Other than checking schrader valve how do you check the fuel pump?
Hotshot
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 10,408
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From: Plankinton, SD
Schrader valve for pressure is about all you can do. I'd check it at idle for starters, and if its "normal" you may need to put a gauge on it to watch it while driving.
I don't remember way back, did you ever pull codes?
I don't remember way back, did you ever pull codes?
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Fuel filter has less than 100 miles on it. It was doing this same thing before I changed the fuel filter also. Thanks.
Fuel pump is original. I've had truck since 26,000 miles, now has 280k plus, and I don't believe I ever hadit changed.
Fuel pump is original. I've had truck since 26,000 miles, now has 280k plus, and I don't believe I ever hadit changed.
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Had truck running in driveway with hook up and check engine light went on. Got underneath hood and measured fuel pressure with my cheap air gauge and only got 20. It might be ruined now, but everytime before while cranking it was 50 plus. Just might be fuel pump. I noticed some diesel leaking in the valley. Think I'll just replace it. I'll let you guys know.
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AAARRRRRGGGGGHHH!
Spent the greater part of today replacing the fuel pump.
It was harder to get that little tin nut on the IPR than it was to replace the fuel pump.
Anyway, fired truck up afterward and it started within a couple of seconds, had to give it alot of throttle for about 20 seconds, then it idled well. Took it for a spin and afte 5 miles it was still running good, then all of a sudden, check engine light. From then till the time I got home I was getting check engine lights and it would running bad most of the time when check engine light was on.
I had to replace the negative end of the drivers side cable that hooks to the battery and I cut off about 6 inches trying to get rid of all the corrosion in the cable, but there was still some left when I hooked it back up.
Maybe it is PCM or IDM? I've replaced almost everything else.
Did I tell you I am tired of this crap?
Seems like it comes on when the truck gets up to operating temp.
Anyway, I am tired of this crap.
Spent the greater part of today replacing the fuel pump.
It was harder to get that little tin nut on the IPR than it was to replace the fuel pump.
Anyway, fired truck up afterward and it started within a couple of seconds, had to give it alot of throttle for about 20 seconds, then it idled well. Took it for a spin and afte 5 miles it was still running good, then all of a sudden, check engine light. From then till the time I got home I was getting check engine lights and it would running bad most of the time when check engine light was on.
I had to replace the negative end of the drivers side cable that hooks to the battery and I cut off about 6 inches trying to get rid of all the corrosion in the cable, but there was still some left when I hooked it back up.
Maybe it is PCM or IDM? I've replaced almost everything else.
Did I tell you I am tired of this crap?
Seems like it comes on when the truck gets up to operating temp.
Anyway, I am tired of this crap.
