I took the cover off the PCM and noticed that on the pins where you slide a chip on, it appeared to have some type of protective film on it. Does it come that way from the factory?

 

.....yes......

 

I must have contacted 10 vendors trying to get a PCM, and none of them have one.

 

Auto Computer Exchange has them....in Florida.... for $495... nope. Don't think it's worth it for a test... got to be a better way...

 

Auto-parts has a bunch of them, but no BJF. I wonder is the BJE would work?

 

As long as it is from a truck with an auto transmission it will work. And anything '96 or '97 will still allow the OBD II port to work. As far as I know that BJE will work.

 

The BJE one I found was a TEE4 though. I don't think that will work.

 

As long as it is from an auto 7.3 it will work.

 

Thanks everyone for your help.
I think I have finally fixed the truck. The last thing
I replaced was the PCM. I also put a couple of new
batteries in it. I put the batteries in the truck first and it fired right up but after 7 or 8 seconds it gave me check engine light, and it sounded terrible. I don't think PCM was controlling the HPOP pressure.
I jerked out the PCM, put a "new to me" one in and the truck now runs great. Idles good, no check engine light after 25 miles of driving while pushing the accelerator hard.
Since I can be a tight *** I bought two packages of compression springs from McMaster and I currently have a spring in the FPR that is giving me 35 psi at WOT and about 50 at idle. The fuel pressure is real steady. Get this I bought a package of 5 springs for 7 bucks. These are heavy duty springs. If it continues to perform I'll give you guys the part number, so you can save a few bucks and not get raped.
A little story: Back in 2007 I had problems with my truck starting and took it to a local diesel shop and they had it 3 weeks, couldn't fix it so I had it towed to a Ford dealership. The first shop sent me a bill for $2500. F** them. So, Ford put an alternator on, said it was fixed and charged me $800. Okay, I'll see, but what the hell would that have to do with a "no start? Two days later truck wouldn't start. "Screw them"! So, I took it to a third shop and they replaced the HPOP. $1500!. At least it would start, but that is when I started noticing the "check engine light". I have had the CEL problem every since. Okay, so now it was $4800 in repair bills for a 12 year old truck. Ford refunded my money, the first shop took me to court and I Won. I paid the third shop.
With all the parts, etc I bought fixing this last episode, I probably spent $1000.
I sure learned alot about the powerstroke engine.

 

About time finger crossed

If it was mine I would get the fuel pressure up to around 60-65psi

 

Man, I hope this actually took care of the issue.

 

Man, I hope so too. It has been a journey. I figure if I would have taken it to a shop though, they would have screwed me one way or the other.

Oh yeah, I also found 25 foot of 2/0 battery cable (new)on ebay, bid on it and got it for $3, but had to pay $28 in shipping. I also found screw type mechanical lugs and got them for $3 each (everyone usually wants 15), so I replaced the positve battery cables. I might just use my leftover 2/0 and do the negative cables also.

 

Wow! Even with the shipping, that's a bargain! That stuff is expensive.

 

Yeah, it was SGR too, with the fine paper lining next to the rubber. I think they mean to put the bid in by the foot, but forgot. I really like the mechanical lugs though. No soldering, just strip, insert the cable and tighten the hell out of them.

 

I prefer the solder lugs myself (solder bullets are cool!) but the mechanicals seem to work well as long as you keep them clean. Use some De-Ox or something on there if you're using the mechanicals and you'll probably be just fine.