I did pull the emergncy brake bracket off and when you look at the PCM it appears there is some kind of cassette(best way I can describe it) pushed into the middle of the case. It is flush with the case though and you cannot grab it. It appears to have some kind of small metal tab a little inside but I am not sure if it is removable. I can wiggle the cassette up and down about an eight of an inch. It had a small piece of paper on it, but it was shredded and Icouldn't read anything on it. Does this sound like a chip?

 

I think it sounds like the factory plug, a chip would be sticking out a ways.

 

Okay, I didn't think it had a chip.

 

What is up with this? Today truck would not start unless I waited for a minute after the WTS light went out, then it would start. Even after driving it 3 or 4 miles and then shutting it off and trying to start it again, I would have to wait a minute after the WTS light went out.
The truck will idle for a minute or two and then just die, even when hot. It almost seems like you could time it with a stop watch and know when it will die. POS is starting to get on my nerves.
No CEL's though. Truck seemed to have good power today. Why won't it idle? I would think if it was losing power to an injector the computer would set a code and CEL would come on.

 

Okay, you electrical gurus, figure this one out. I disconnected the power lead going to the GPR, and since the truck was hot, I thought I would try and start it. It started within a few seconds. I can shut it off and as soon as the WTS light out, it will start right up. And now it will sit and idle without dying. So, this is the opposite of the last post. And I took it for a drive and under hard acceleration I got the CEL back and then it stumbled. It still would not die though. This is all with the power lead going to the GPR disconnected. Sounds like the power lead being connected to the GPR is causing the truck to die at idle, and causing a no start until the glowplugs are pretty much done with their cycle. SOB! I guess the ICP I put in today was for naught.

 

Dan, do you still have the chip installed. If so you might want to unplug and run the truck on stock programming until these issues are resolved. I think you said the rig is a Cali truck and if so you would have 120CC split shot injectors. That and a chip might ... might cause you to run out of oil in the HPOP causing the cel on hard acceleration. If so that's a good thing and you can do a supporting mods in the future and not worry about it at this time.

Cali glow plug system are a bit different than federal and more wires hooked up for the PCM to monitor current draw on each bank. I think at one time you mentioned replacing the GPR .. did you or was that another thread? Can you post a picture of the actual GPR so we can see it is an actual Cali GPR?

Just a suggestion but you might want to start another thread on your last two observations (posts). This one is so long not many will read it through and we will start going in circles .. same questions asked again and again. Just call it "Cali GPR Problem" or something like that and link this thread for those diehards, like me.

Good luck, think you are almost there ...

 

Jim, I think I figured out the GPR problem.
I was trying to start the engine when the glowplugs were on, and it would not start until the glowplugs ran their cycle. I am almost positive now, my batteries were too low on juice, that is why it would start when the glowplugs were done. It may not be idling because of injector o rings?
Once the truck gets good and warm it idles well with everything hooked up. At the present time I am only getting a CEL upon hard acceleration (around 3000rpms) and usually in second gear.
Nothing ever done to the injectors but I had a new HPOP put in in 2007.

HPOP or bad injector o-rings?

 

Here are the pics of the cap of the PCM, a PCM with BANKs chip and a TW chip alone

 

On my PCM where the circuit board edge connector is I have a metal piece that fits in there that is flush with the rest of the case. As I recall it has a rubber edge around it, but it does not stick out. It almost looks like the circuit borad edge connector sticks out in your diagram.

 

So besides replacing the computer that your trying... and the fuel pump did you really do anything else (no not saying you didnt actually do work but I mean like replacing parts etc besides hrs and hrs of trouble shooting)? Or is the truck going through all these moods pretty much on its own? Or only after your wiggling the harness?

 

So maybe you have a different chip like this: Superchips or an old BD power

 

Here is what I've done, other than countless hours doing dumb stuff.
New IPR
New ICP
New Fuel Pump
New Air Filter
New Fuel Filter
3 New glowplugs
2 new CPS's
New IPR pigtail
2 new valve cover pigtails]
New negative battery posts
Awhile back I checked fuel pressure with a cheap air gauge and got 50psi while cranking, but after that I went ahead and changed fuel pump anyway.
Today I hooked up a liquid filled gauge(600psi) in the place of the schrader valve and initially at idle pressure was low so I revved engine and pressure went up but then dropped and then at idle was less than 10 psi. I thought I had a bad gauge, so went and bought a new 0-200 psi gauge. At idle pressure was low, so I revved engine, pressure went up to 50 but it could not hold that pressure while revving engine and it started dropping. At idle it was less than 10 lbs.
WTF! All these parts, etc and it might be a fuel starvation problem? My FPR screen is clean, I checked it two or three times. As a matter of fact the first time I ever checked it at 286000 miles it was clean.
Is there anything else than can cause the fuel pump from not getting fuel to the FPR?

 

A bad fuel pump just out from the box (rare) or a bad/broken spring in the FPR.
What about your possible chip?

 

My old fuel pump might not have been bad either. I pulled the spring today and nothing wrong with it. Is it the one next to schrader valve, takes a 3/4 inch wrench? What else is in there besides the spring? That and the nut is all I got out of there.

 

There is also a some kind of piston inside: first the piston, then the spring and later the 3/4 nut. some times its very difficult to get out the piston with the FPR installed.