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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:04 PM
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NO Start

Hey guys, need some help. 1995 f350, 286k miles.
Was driving down road, check engine light comes on, truck started sputtering, wouldn't die, but no power, very sluggish. Then for no reason check engine light would disappear, and truck would run great. Kept happening day after day. Once or twice it would die, but It would always start back up. This happened time and time again until I parked the truck and didn't use it for a month and then it wouldn't start at all.
I have:
Checked all fuses(replaced #22)
Checked the relays the best I knew how.
New CPS
50PSI out of fuel pump schrader valve
Unplugged ICP valve, still won't start
Checked HPOP and oil within an inch of top.( Put a new HPOP in it less than 10K miles ago.)
Checked the GPM and it appears to be working fine.
NO smoke out of back.
Engine oil clean and full
I pulled IPR today and it seems fine except I made another problem. The little edge filter on the end of IPR was very hard to remove and I ruined it, but IPR seems to work okay. Where can I get another edge filter and what is its purpose?
I don't know what else to do. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:13 PM
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Is the Tach moving while cranking? I would change the fuel filter. Mine ran like that when we first put the motor back in. My wire I had for the electric fuel conversion was a little loose and would loose fuel psi. Could just have some crude in the fpr screen and losing pressure under load.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:40 PM
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I did change the fuel filter and when I took off the IPR, I had to loosen the fuel pump and the filter was really clean.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 01:56 PM
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Get the code if you can. My WAG is UVCH ....
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 02:36 PM
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Yes, tach moves and oil pressure shows on my oil pressure gauge. I also have a WTS light.
 
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 05:01 PM
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With the key on I checked the voltage going to the IPR solenoid and it was 10volts. Is that about right? Since the solenoid is an electromagnet, is there any way to hook up the solenoid when it is out of the truck to the connector and determine if the solenoid is working. I thought maybe you could run a metal rod down the middle of the solenoid and then turn on the key and see if you feel and movement. Is that dumb?
 
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Old Aug 28, 2011 | 09:19 AM
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yes your ipr is good, justed tested out mine aswell. i got 11.5 or something like that. your batteries are probably a little low from the extra cranking.

can you swap with someones IDM local?
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 05:49 PM
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Took me an hour and a half to put that little 3/4 inch nut back on the IPR. I am so pissed. Filled up the HPOP with oil and turned over the engine. No start. No smoke, no nothing. I am going to sell this piece of junk.
Why is the small flat washer behind the oil ring on the IPR split? I am out of things to try, don't have any codes, and not a bit of smoke.
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 07:58 PM
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theres a few aspects to a wide approach of symptoms.Ive replaced the orins on the ipr and thats a good repair when its apart,like $13 and dont remember a split washer on it.Sometime it could also be the solenoid part of the ipr although they are reliable when its mechanical anything is possible.U know how that is ,until its fixed,try whatever it takes,sometime you'd be suprised.Im wondering if its a fuel delivery concern with the fpr screen gunked up.Not tryin to compound the dilemma,interested to see how this one goes.Good luck and,its just a matter of time before you are up and running again........
 

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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 08:15 PM
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The flat split oring is a back up oring to support the oil oring
 
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Old Aug 29, 2011 | 09:05 PM
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I think maybe it is the IDM. What else could it be now?
I had 50PSI coming out of the schrader valve, so it has to be getting fuel. When it is 100 degress outside, you really don't need the glow plugs. At least it would smoke.
My HPOP was new a couple of years ago. It seems to hold the oil when sitting, until I crank on the engine alot.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 06:44 AM
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Keep cranking it. After you have the HP oil system open (which you did to replace the IPR o-rings) you may have to crank it several times for 20-30 seconds each time to get the air out of the HPO system enough to fire the truck. So crank for 20-30 seconds then give it a couple minutes for the starter to cool off, then repeat. It would also be a good idea to put a charger on the batteries to keep them topped off during all this cranking so you don't run them down too low to fire the engine.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Action4478
Get the code if you can. My WAG is UVCH ....
You need to do what Rick said.
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:28 PM
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What is UVCH?
 
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Old Aug 30, 2011 | 12:33 PM
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Okay figured the UVCH out(under the cover valve harness).
I do have one bad pigtail out of the 4 where they plug into the valve cover above.
I have a new one on order. Would one bad pigtail make the whole truck not start?
 
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