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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 06:06 PM
  #121  
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Page 87, where they are talking about trucks with dual tanks.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 03:31 PM
  #122  
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Okay, did a continuity check on the female harness that goes into the IDM. Ohms between pin 21 and 7 says I have a short circuit. How do I rule out the injector. I thought I checked the ohms of all the injectors going through the female receptacle on the valve cover and they were good.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 03:46 PM
  #123  
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Unplug the wiring harness from the VC Gasket and test the wiring harness again. You won't be testing the injector if the harness is unplugged form the VC.
 
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 06:04 PM
  #124  
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When I put a new pigtail on, I didn't get one of the injector wires crimped good enough, so it came apart. Got it fixed, fired the truck up and it is really smooth now. Now, just gotta see if the check engine light comes back on.

What is the best way to check the turbo to see if it is working well?
 
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 07:35 PM
  #125  
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Get a sunpro boost gauge from Autozone.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 04:25 PM
  #126  
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Still fighting the check engine light. When it comes on, the truck runs like crap, when it goes off, it runs perfect.
It only stays on for a fraction of a second to a second or two now. I just put a new IPR in today, hoping that was it, but it doesn't appear to be.
I wish it would come on and stay on, maybe I could trace some wires.
 
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Old Sep 17, 2011 | 11:10 PM
  #127  
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Now my truck doesn't know what it wants to do. I let it sit for 4 or 5 hours, went out to start it, and it won't fire. All afternoon I started it several times, and it fired right up with only a second or two of cranking. Just put the new IPR in today. Another $150 spent for nuttin.
Everytime I check the HPOP resevoir it is full. If I had full coverage on it, I'd burn it.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 05:40 AM
  #128  
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If it is setting a CEL there should be codes stored in the PCM. Any way you canget those read and post them up here for us? With the codes we can see a lot better what we are working with.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 08:27 AM
  #129  
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A new IPR isn't for nothing, you have ruled that out and now have a spare. I've wanted to burn my truck down a few times, I know how you feel.
 
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Old Sep 18, 2011 | 07:29 PM
  #130  
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I've had three different scanners on the truck and they all say, no code. But I don't think they are communicating. Although, one of them did say MIL, whatever that is. Then it said no link.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 12:30 PM
  #131  
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Okay, so I go try to start my truck this morning and it won't start. I check the HPOP resevoir and it is down about 6 inches. Until I put the new IPR on, it has been staying full, but my truck was starting also. What makes the resevoir drain down. I probably cranked it for a total of 60 seconds with 4 or 5 trys.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #132  
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Unplugged IPR and with KOEO, I had 12 volts. I plug pigtail back in, and the engine started within a couple of seconds of cranking, even thugh HPOP was really low.
Been listening to engine idle, and once in the last 5 minutes it stuttered. I keep thinking IPR pigtail, but everytime I check the voltage it is 12 plus. Aaaargh!
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 09:28 PM
  #133  
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I wonder if the 2 pins in the IPR pigtail could be shorting across?
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 10:12 PM
  #134  
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Excessive cranking can cause the level to drop. After it started did the level come up. About the two pins shorting across, anything is possible.
 
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Old Sep 19, 2011 | 11:19 PM
  #135  
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I didn't check the level after it started. I am assuming it did come up, because almost every time before it would be full.
I think I will get a new IPR pigtail and see what happens.
Maybe since the scanners won't read any codes on my truck it is the ECM?
 
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