Ok, go some help from my IT Dept (my son ) so hopefully these pictures will show up.

I bought a single 4X8 sheet of treated 3/4" plywood and eight 8' 2X6s and started cutting everything, ply into 32 11.5" squares and lumber into 96 11.5" segments. Then to help keep the weight under control I bored 6 1.5" holes through each 2X6 piece (576 holes!), the holes essentially remove the weight of one board from each 6 board block.
Lots of chips....


It looks like a super sized set of dominos.


Used Liquid Nails and deck screws to assemble, this one is half built.


Once they were all put together I gave them a good sanding to smooth the edges and flush up the sides to reduce the chance for splinters and make them look better. I am planning to soak them all pretty well with water sealer for added protection. For now they are riding in the back of the EX until I build the racks for them under the trailer.


The rope handles make it easy to grab a pair of the blocks with each hand. In the past when I was using loose boards I would have needed 16 sections of 2X6 to get the same amount of cribbing as these two blocks, a little much for a single handful!


For somewhat flat sites a single block under each of the larger scissor jacks is plenty.


But if you are dealing with some elevation the blocks stack solidly and securely.
Two blocks provide a solid foot of cribbing for the jacks.


I'm very happy with how these turned out and they really do speed up campsite setup and breakdown, I do not miss playing Jenga at seven different spots (6 jacks and the tongue jack) at each campsite.

 

What's interesting is when I went to purchase the stab jacks the box stated "must have more than 24" between frame and surface".

Otherwise I would have purchased the beefier 30" jacks. My TT (being a LITE model) is lower than most.

 

Can't give you a rep Tom( the spread it around rule), but that Rapid Jack is a very cool product! I can't wait to get my very own!!!

 

I just learned something.....Jenga!

 

I have the lovely banana flavor squares....I'll be getting me a Rapid Jack.

 

These remind me of the cribbing I used to see firemen use to stabilize rolled over vehicles while they extricated the driver. Nice !

I switched from wood to the Camco legos because the wood absorbed water. I always cringed putting wet wood in my pass-through compartment. Of course, I also hated putting wet legos in ,y pass-through also.

I have recently removed my spare from the back of the TT and replaced it with a small aluminum box from Amazon. Only used for my two patio mats and legos, so no more wet stuff in the pass-through.

 

Is that a light hanging off the jack there Tom?

 

For those of you using the Rapid Jack, are you having any clearance issues for the one you put in between the tires (assuming you don't have the spread axles)? On my Jayco, I opted for the 16" tire upgrade, which puts the tires pretty close together.

This isn't a pic from my trailer, but it would be very similar:

 

I use these because my axles/tires have much more distance between them and these are the extended version. Not sure if they make a narrow version.

 

Charly, the Rapid Jack is similar but different from the Anderson Levelers that we have. The RJ is designed to lift up to 8" and to be used for tire changes. However they can be used the same was as the AL like we have but I don't think that they come with the smaller chock that locks the ramp in place once you are up on it like tha ALs have.

Scott, I have to admit the Rescue cribbing was my inspiration for these blocks, I spent 30 years running with a busy VFD that saw a lot of Rescue work, we used webbing handles on all of our cribbing there.
I'm hoping that drowning these blocks in water sealer a couple of times will limit the amount of water they will absorb. So far it hasn't been too bad, with most of them being under the stabilizer jacks they are shielded by most of the rain by the camper body but the tongue jack blocks do soak up some rain. They will be living under the TT on racks to keep them out of the trailers limited storage and the rear of the EX where they are now. The racks will also have them very close to where they will be used.

Why yes Eric, that is a light on my front jack, there are 4 of them, one on each front jack and two at the rear of the frame all facing rearward. I'm not completely done with the reverse light project yet but these Amazon mini LED light bars really light things up at night! With the 2 up front EVERYTHING gets lit, makes it much easier to see any obstacles while backing and TURNING into campsites or my long driveway at night.

Jason, Jayco wouldn't allow us a 16" tire option when we ordered our TT, it was the only thing we butted heads over. But earlier this year we made the upgrade to 16" ourselves and are now running Sailun S637s in 235/80R16, so the distance between the tires is now only 4" or so. Even with these larger tires the Anderson Levelers have enough room to be placed, used and removed without any issues. However as I mentioned to Charly above, the Levelers are smaller than the Rapid Jacks that can lift up to 8", I'm assuming the RJs are a bit longer than the ALs so they might not fit in the between tire space that you have.
These are the new Load Range G Sailuns (after way too many ST tire failures drastic overkill was my course of action), as you can see there is not a lot of room between them but the ALs still work fine.


The only thing I didn't like about the Anderson Levelers was that when removing them my wife had her hand(s) in there to remove the smaller chocks while I held position with the EX and TT brakes. I've seen too many accidents and injuries over years and didn't want to add any to our vacations, a squashed finger or hand wouldn't be any fun. So I drilled a small hole in each chock and Leveler ramp and threaded a length of rope to allow them to all be pulled out without having any hands or fingers actually under or in the path of the tires.

 

The online pictures of both levelers show them dang near identical, in fact it's the same company from what I gathered in my "excavation"...

 

I have the x-chocks for mine and they work FAR better than the yellow blocks. They really stabilize the whole rig from front to back and eliminate much more of the movement. They obviously work best if you have one for each side.

 

I made a few sets of these about 10yrs ago. They work great.

 

So here is a quesion for the camper gurus. I have a built ex...v/b codes, timbrens, 30mm bar etc. I currently have a small camper 60's FAN single axle, 24' long. Its light and the Ex deoesnt even act like its back there.


The ISSUE is sway. It's a short, single axle trailer....yes I have as much tongue weight as possible, which laughbly hardly squats the ex at all. But make 65-70 she sways pretty good, add a semi or exp joint and it gets white knucle.

I do have an old WD set up with round bars. It would have to be modified for my trailer with a drop hitch and some custom brackets ($60-100). I currently tow it with just a simple drop hitch and ball. Would adding something like a friction sway controller work. The things are like $25 at harbor freight with a 20% coupon.

I almost thing the WD hitch wuld make it worse but unloading the front of the trailer more.

 

We have a similar length trailer and use a Equalizer wd hitch with built in sway control.

Zero sway even with semis passing.