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5 new tires, valves and wheels.... balanced and mounted, $800 Looked into G rated but not enough room for the "bounce" due to the increased diameter of the tire, so got 10 ply E rated Hercules tires. 600 miles logged so far. When I contacted Northwood they did not recommend the taller tires.
This looks interesting but I noticed a potential problem. The video talks specifically about the rack folding down so the front bed on a hybrid can be used yet the posts are clearly higher than the bed hinge creating an interference.
Are you able to open the hatch door on your excursion when you have bikes in the rack?
Opening the hatch isn't a problem. I have the hensley arrow so it's a little longer than some hitches. I've never looked at how much clearance it has. I'll have it hooked up on Friday and I'll measure how much clearance I have.
This looks interesting but I noticed a potential problem. The video talks specifically about the rack folding down so the front bed on a hybrid can be used yet the posts are clearly higher than the bed hinge creating an interference.
I have no experience using it on a hybrid so not much I can add. The website says the length is adjustable from 30-34" I don't know if that would be enough to clear the beds.
I removed my ProPride yesterday to get the camper ready to go to the shop for a couple of weeks, it took me about 30 minutes. I am going to replace some of the nuts and U bolts, grease the bearings and freshen it up while it is off.
We did find that the water pump is loud and has low pressure, while it is in the shop I will have it looked at. The main reason the camper is going in is the front cap needs to be refinished because of fading.
I've got other threads going but hoping to get some attention over here since it's related to towing.
Vibrating steering wheel, looking at new rotors and pads. Primarily tow with Ex. Ford said okay to machine rotors and deglaze pads that they still had lots of life. Reading other threads and some advice on my other thread says to replace. What combo should I do? Replace all, some? Got cheaper quote from another mechanic and he likes Akebono. Wasn't familiar with Hawk.
Want to get most life out of whatever we do, and not replace rotors again anytime soon.
Want to decide asap as we're towing our trailer (6K#) up mountains on Sunday.
Help
I've got other threads going but hoping to get some attention over here since it's related to towing.
Vibrating steering wheel, looking at new rotors and pads. Primarily tow with Ex. Ford said okay to machine rotors and deglaze pads that they still had lots of life. Reading other threads and some advice on my other thread says to replace. What combo should I do? Replace all, some? Got cheaper quote from another mechanic and he likes Akebono. Wasn't familiar with Hawk.
Want to get most life out of whatever we do, and not replace rotors again anytime soon.
Want to decide asap as we're towing our trailer (6K#) up mountains on Sunday.
Help
On most applications rotors and drums are as thin as possible when new. On any rotor or drum you are removing metal and make them more susceptible to warp.
Personally I replace rotors when I do a brake job, it costs more but I feel the repair will last longer. In your case I would replace pads and rotors, deglazing is really just sanding the surface material.
I wonder why ford tech trying to talk me out of replacing and just turn and glaze when most on here and articles say replace? To have me spend more $ on other things need done? To have me return in 6 months to do again or replace at that point? I'm sure there must be some algorithm they use to produce most business.
I wonder why ford tech trying to talk me out of replacing and just turn and glaze when most on here and articles say replace? To have me spend more $ on other things need done? To have me return in 6 months to do again or replace at that point? I'm sure there must be some algorithm they use to produce most business.
On the rotors are marked a minimum thickness required after turning. It is cheaper to turn than to replace and with a new set of pads you MIGHT be ok. It is acceptable for the most part on most vehicles.
As the rotors get thinner they tend to warp easier due to the heat of braking. Now you are running an 8k vehicle and trailer. Going down hills too I would assume. A lot of weight to stop which means more heat in the rotors.
If they turn them and they get warped after your trip, as long as you have a warranty they should make it good.
Its a risk turning them as they may warp on your trip due to the weight you are stopping.
On the rotors are marked a minimum thickness required after turning. It is cheaper to turn than to replace and with a new set of pads you MIGHT be ok. It is acceptable for the most part on most vehicles.
As the rotors get thinner they tend to warp easier due to the heat of braking. Now you are running an 8k vehicle and trailer. Going down hills too I would assume. A lot of weight to stop which means more heat in the rotors.
If they turn them and they get warped after your trip, as long as you have a warranty they should make it good.
Its a risk turning them as they may warp on your trip due to the weight you are stopping.
You would be better off with new rotors, IMHO
new for me, when I get the shimmy shake its new rotors and pads. Mines a 4 ton beast!
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