Some pretty pictures for your viewing pleasure. Taken from the bridge on Madeline Key. The picture is the Skyway Bridge looking east. We watched as the thunder boomer built and lightning hit the bridge multiple times. No pics of that. The sunset is looking west towards Sister key and the Gulf of Mexico. Ft. DeSoto campground is where we stayed, about a .5 miles away.

 

Replaced the cheap front stab jacks that came on our TT, adjusted the ProPride and in so doing broke the battery strap. Normal wear and tear.

 

Not sure If I wanna fit my generator in the space provided on my TT or a rear bumper mount. I have a Champion 3500 W, electric start, dual fuel but would need to remove the "plastic" housing to fit in the space on my TT. The 4" bumper is robust and welded to the frame. Trailer is pre wired and has LP available.

If I remove the plastics.... the generator is not "portable" anymore. With the plastics off weighs < 100 lbs.

I currently use the space for the generator for my utility hook ups. No big deal to move them.

I'm leaning towards bumper mount but not against housing mount.

 

They make a "high mount" genset carrier that mounts on the A frame of the trailer and puts the genset above the propane tanks. The plan would be to convert it to propane and dedicate one of the tanks to the genset. I actually ordered one but sent it back after I decided to go with a motorhome. I think this is what I bought.

https://www.etrailer.com/RV-Cargo/St...xoCnrUQAvD_BwE

 

We dropped the camper at the dealer today. I pulled it with an old style WD hitch so the dealer could maneuver it, the more I do that the more I love my Pro-Pride!

 

I already use two x-chocks between the wheels for stability and they help alot. What did you upgrade to for the corner stabilizer jacks? Thanks.

 

I probably should do the X-chocks but I've already got the yellow blocks so...

For the stab jacks, what my local RV store has, a little beefier over OEM.

 

I just bought these. On our way now for camping trip and will try them out. A lot lighter than our previous blocks of wood: Tri-Lynx 00015 Lynx Levelers - 10 Pack
We also use x chocks.

 

I already had the blocks, but if I hadn't had the x-chocks there's no way I could have pulled off camping at the last park on the incline we had. Tongue was almost touching the ground...literally, and one side needed a double stack of lynx leveler blocks plus wheel chocks. The plastic chocks from camco and lynx can both get crushed by enough incline. I re-enforced the x-chocks with 1/2" copper pipe covering each bolt between the arms (which attaching the 4 gripping feet) to be sure the tension doesn't let the arms flex in/collapse under pressure. They should have done that from the factory but it's an easy upgrade. The x-chocks take most of the motion out of the interior when people are walking around or shifting in their beds at night, or getting in and out of the doors.

 

Our long TT came from the factory with 4 of the 24" 5k scissor jacks, one on each corner. With those down very firmly and a set of X-Chocks in between the tandems we still had a pretty decent amount of trailer bounce with folks walking around inside. Was most noticeable when the Bride and I would hit the sack at a reasonable time and the young savages would be up and moving around till the wee hours, didn't like the jiggling around when trying to sleep.


I upgraded to 6 new 30" 6500lb scissor jacks adding a set just forward of the front axle spring mounts. With the 38' box there was a certain amount of frame flex and suspension bounce, these extra mid-ship jacks have really helped to reduce the trailer movement from people (and dogs) walking around, much more stable now. The taller jacks also are more stable due to not needing to be as extended as far as the originals.
For side to side leveling we use the Anderson Levelers , yeah they cost more than a stack of 2X6s but I'm trying to get away from playing Jenga at the campsites. I have also recently made a group (16) of 11.5" X 11.5" X 6.5" high wood blocks (3/4 plywood top and bottom with 3 layers of alternating direction 2X6s with 36 1.5" holes to keep the weight down, all treated lumber that is glued and screwed together with rope handles) to replace the bins of loose lumber that had to be stacked and repacked at every site. The blocks are more stable and have sped up our setup and pack up time a bit. I will be adding a set of racks for them under the TT this Fall/Winter.

 

Hey Tom, have any pics? I get tired of playing Jenga with crushable plastic chocks also! Too funny, every time I get to a new site, I usually mutter something about 'time to play Jenga'.

 

I've had a couple sites steep enough where I pulled out my army shovel and dug a little hole for my two rear-most tires to sit in, so they were up against the berm I dug out.

 

I looked at these on Amazon and I don't understand how they operate.

 

I do have pictures, but I'm still sorting out the migration away from photobucket and into imgur, once I get those pics sorted out I'll post them up here.

Super simple to use Mark, they can raise one side of the TT up to 4", which will take care of most campground sites. We do exactly as shown in this video with holding a 2' level against the side of the TT and then either pull up or reverse onto the larger ramp parts then stick the small chocks under the ramp part to secure the setup. . The plastic cleans up easy and they take up less room than the wood we used to use.
We travel with a few other couples that have Class A Motorhomes, they are doing their leveling and returning to travel mode with a single push button, I'm just trying to speed up our process to keep up as best as I can.

 

I've been using for the last seven years , thanks for the video.