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Last free camper I got was a leak fest so we gutted it. We used it for storage mostly dry storage until a tornado flipped it. I was then able to sell the frame with axles out from under it for 400 bucks. The old roof AC for 100, some of the windows and frames that survived for 50 bucks, and the rest hit the dump. If you have a place to dismantle it, you have options if it can't be fixed.
The whole reason I bought the Ex was to tow a travel trailer. I was looking for something newer, but this might be a decent way to get my feet wet relatively cheaply. As long as I don't sink too much into it I don't think I have much to lose. In a few years it might be an ok trade in on what we want to retire with. Thanks for the input!
I pulled my trailer out today, decided since I need to use it and the motorhome on the 4th of July I better start now. Needs a new battery and to be dewinterized. I'd like to do some repair work on the rotting floor but I have no intention of really getting crazy with it, just buy myself a few years. Also need to do some brake work, as now they don't work at all. Pulled the awning off tonight as it was done for!
The main camper now, taken it out twice and LOVING it! Much more elbow room!
We had a great Fathers Day camping weekend at a local COE campground. Unfortunately the Excursion still has an unresolved transmission issue, so I borrowed the boss's truck for the towing duty. Very grateful for him to let me use it but I am a bit ashamed for having to park the Ex for a GMC. 2002 Sierra 2500HD, 4 door, long bed, 8.1L. Thing is a beast. I sure wouldn't want to have for a daily driver(or a GMC at all), but I did notice a few big differences. Hydroboost brakes felt so much better than the Excursion. Stiff HD rear springs, bigger engine and longer wheel base, I really didn't feel the 7000 lb travel trailer behind it.
I pulled my trailer out today, decided since I need to use it and the motorhome on the 4th of July I better start now. Needs a new battery and to be dewinterized. I'd like to do some repair work on the rotting floor but I have no intention of really getting crazy with it, just buy myself a few years. Also need to do some brake work, as now they don't work at all. Pulled the awning off tonight as it was done for!
The main camper now, taken it out twice and LOVING it! Much more elbow room!
A piece of plywood and some indoor/outdoor carpeting goes a long way for an effective and cheap floor fix. Might get lucky on the brakes too and just have a bad wire. Glad you are having fun with the campers!
Wiring issues, Water pump went kaput, black tank gate vale that would open itself up as we were on the road, water faucet decided to start leaking.
So besides the insurance and loan payment, this thing has cost me about 2k this year in repairs.....
I told my wife if it was a boat at least we could take it out on the lake, put life vests on and pull the plug and turn it in for the ins$.
Rant over.........
Has a anyone used a standard metal faucet in their RV/TT or 5th wheel?
I went and picked up a cheapo at Lowes. RV dealer wanted 60 plus for a replacement faucet. I was out the door for $23 at Lowes.
Originally Posted by ExxWhy
No need for an "RV" faucet, they are just really cheap (but pricey) house faucets. Owning an RV is all the "joys of home ownership"!
Yep, I replaced both the kitchen and bathroom sink faucets in the old toyhauler with metal sets from Home Depot, much better! The current TT has a decent faucet in the kitchen but the same cheap plastic one in the bath, I am thinking about replacing it and the tiny sink next year.
Trailer brake question: I'm running a tekonsha p3 brake controller which works, but seemingly only in the most basic sense of the word. Was at the parking lot trying to get it dialed-in and there is no setting at which I can get the manual brake override to lock-up the travel trailer tires on my new-to-me 32' 2005 Layton. Manual override at best slows the trailer down and, over the course of a hundred feet, will pull me to a stop only if I lift my foot completely off the gas. I can hear the brakes on the trailer engaging and the rear brake lights on the trailer work, so the connection seems ok.
Suggestions on what is probably happening? I assume the drum brake shoes need replacing, but wondering if there's something else that might be awry?
Trailer brake question: I'm running a tekonsha p3 brake controller which works, but seemingly only in the most basic sense of the word. Was at the parking lot trying to get it dialed-in and there is no setting at which I can get the manual brake override to lock-up the travel trailer tires on my new-to-me 32' 2005 Layton. Manual override at best slows the trailer down and, over the course of a hundred feet, will pull me to a stop only if I lift my foot completely off the gas. I can hear the brakes on the trailer engaging and the rear brake lights on the trailer work, so the connection seems ok.
Suggestions on what is probably happening? I assume the drum brake shoes need replacing, but wondering if there's something else that might be awry?
Our old toyhauler had less than impressive brakes when we bought it used. I found out why when I went to repack the bearings, someone previously had way over greased the Easy Lube spindles and blown out the rear seal which then dumped a bunch of grease onto 3 of the 4 brake shoe assemblies. After a good cleaning on the hubs/drums and 4 new brake assemblies it was much, much better and could lock the tires up very well at full manual activation.
After a good cleaning on the hubs/drums and 4 new brake assemblies it was much, much better and could lock the tires up very well at full manual activation.
Both reasonable diagnoses. I'll take a look and report back.
This is an anecdotal observation but, I redid my travel trailer roof last year with a nano ceramic roof material, more specifically, Dicor EPDM insulating roof coating.... seems to make a difference to me. A/C doesn't work as hard. Holding up well too, just got pressure washed.
Additionally... For those who are looking to restore the gelcoat on their composite trailers... this stuff is the bomb, http://www.smoovewax.com/ highly recommended. Use it on my boat but works equally well on my TT. NOT FOR PAINT.
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
Slideshow: Called the Fortress, the 850-horsepower pickup combines Raptor underpinnings with military-inspired features, survival equipment, and a starting price of $285,000.