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Oh yeah, I am familar with the no resealing the oil pan. Helped a friend with that job. Its like they just dont want to seat right once they are pulled.
Let us know what the shop says Evan.
I dropped it off saturday, but they aren't open till today. Still waiting for a call from them. I hope it's something stupid easy that I just overlooked that doesn't cost much.
I have been watching this post,I think brown Falcon may have the same problem I encountered. The de-aeration check valve has a ball bearing that had fallen outof the mentioned valve. I hope that is not your situatiion, Brown Falcon. I drilled two holes through the check valve, and inserted a rolled pin, trimmed to fit, to retain ball bearing. The check valve is in tight, I don't see how they could vibrate loose. LOOK CAREFULLY OFR THE BALL BEARIING THOUGH. PM me if I can answer any questions.
Good luck
C
I have been watching this post,I think brown Falcon may have the same problem I encountered. The de-aeration check valve has a ball bearing that had fallen outof the mentioned valve. I hope that is not your situatiion, Brown Falcon. I drilled two holes through the check valve, and inserted a rolled pin, trimmed to fit, to retain ball bearing. The check valve is in tight, I don't see how they could vibrate loose. LOOK CAREFULLY OFR THE BALL BEARIING THOUGH. PM me if I can answer any questions.
Good luck
C
Update from the shop (nothing really great). They are going to run tests on the oil system.
They also got some codes from it, not sure which ones, but they said some IDM codes and also injector codes.
I'll probably send my injectors to Jim for him to look at when I get the oil problem figured out. Maybe pick up another IDM and try it out.
Originally Posted by chris64
I have been watching this post,I think brown Falcon may have the same problem I encountered. The de-aeration check valve has a ball bearing that had fallen outof the mentioned valve. I hope that is not your situatiion, Brown Falcon. I drilled two holes through the check valve, and inserted a rolled pin, trimmed to fit, to retain ball bearing. The check valve is in tight, I don't see how they could vibrate loose. LOOK CAREFULLY OFR THE BALL BEARIING THOUGH. PM me if I can answer any questions.
Good luck
C
I've got it at a shop going through diagnostics right now. Hopefully they figure it out and it's a easy fix.
If you understand enough about the structural properties of the steel, and are able to cut and weld in a manner that does not compromise the integrity of the frame, sure that's an option. Between the bumps on the road and the possibility of a wreck, I think pulling the motor is the easiest option.
i have helped a buddy do this to his SD. despite what you might think when you cut the Xmember out of there, nothing moves and it's pretty easy to get at everything. we did it b/c he had pulled his engine and then the pan didn't reseal right and he didn't want to pull the engine again just for the pan. just gotta weld some tabs on there so you can bolt the 2 pieces together, then weld it up. no problems and didn't take very long either. not the most ideal way, no, but if you don't want to take the time to pull the engine for a simple job its nice. we didn't weld his Xmember back in, we just bolted it so he can pull it to access the pan at any time.
Evan, hope it doesn't cost you too much to get it back on the road!!! let us know how what happened whenever you find out.
i have helped a buddy do this to his SD. despite what you might think when you cut the Xmember out of there, nothing moves and it's pretty easy to get at everything.
I understand it won't shift when you make the cut, but what happens if your buddy gets in a wreck? What if it's a head on collision with a drunk or something? How will the bolted cross member affect the structural integrity of the entire frame? Will the frame fail at the points it was designed to fail in order to save the occupants, or will the bolts shear or frame tweak in a different way outside of the original design parameters?
Most vehicles are designed for the front part of the driver side frame to collapse so both vehicles will spin away from each other. I don't really know enough about it to say if the bolts are sufficient. I'm sure if you understand enough about it, welding would be sufficient, but there are too many little bits and pieces that I don't know to ever try this myself.
Nothing against your friend, just bringing up some things he may not have thought about. I also wish Ford would have just designed it this way in the beginning. Drilling / cutting out those rivets and replacing with bolts sure looks like a tempting option.
If there were enough tabs or welding , I would not be concerned . Personally , I would weld it . a proper weld is as strong or stronger, than the original ...
Thanks. Didn't know when they started that. Guess that means I'm safe and you're not.
So what's your opinion on cutting and bolting back in the cross member on an OBS? I'm guessing you've seen a few wrecked OBS trucks before.
In a direct head on, it wouldn't help(or hurt) survival. Normally, head on's are not head on. Usually two vehicles , one trying to avoid the other. Usually means left to left or rt to rt . A bolted cross member will be a factor then .Especially the front one .(it is the strongest )
If there were enough tabs or welding , I would not be concerned . Personally , I would weld it . a proper weld is as strong or stronger, than the original ...
2X Rick
Theres nothing to installing cross member bracing if you know how to prep and lay a good bead. I would drop mine in a heart beat if needed. No concerns at all doing that verses pulling the engine. Its like Travis mentioned with the oil pan; I think I read that post a yr or so ago.