Dillins Build Thread
Post Fiend
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 5,121
Likes: 1
From: Springfield, VA
You will need to go closer to 9" to get them right with the huge coils. The only other way would be for you to fab up a 4 link setup. That's the down fall with trying build big with stock components. Kris is showing you 2 different types. The brackets in the pics are the drop brackets that re-use the stock bracket. The ones in the link actually replace the stock and have the drop built in. So, if you have the spacer block (the yellow bracket in the pic) and then get the ones in the link, you should be right on.
edit: Forgot to mention the more you have them angles down, the more apt you are to tearing the rear bushing to crap with the hanger in the stock location. Also the stess that every bump will put on them, pushing in a rearward direction, will eventually try to rip the rear hanger from the frame. This is the reason you want it as parallel as possible.
edit: Forgot to mention the more you have them angles down, the more apt you are to tearing the rear bushing to crap with the hanger in the stock location. Also the stess that every bump will put on them, pushing in a rearward direction, will eventually try to rip the rear hanger from the frame. This is the reason you want it as parallel as possible.
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
ok sounds good, but kris hasnt steered me in the wrong direction ever so i beilive you both. so with 13" of lift you think if i get it dropped 9" i should be fine?
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Elder User
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 727
Likes: 0
ok sounds good they sell the 3" and 4" then the one you gave me the link to i already have the 4" and with the other from what you guys are telling me i should be good to go. or very close thanks
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,147
Likes: 1
From: Joppa, Maryland
wtf are you talkin about Kris? If you lift the truck 9inches you need 9" of drop to keep factory angles. 4 -> 4, 6 ->6.. see a pattern here? :flipoff2:
That said you can use degreed bushings to make up for some of the angle that you get if you don't drop the brackets ALL the way. So you can use some 6" drop brackets and degreed bushings to make up for the rest. Not ideal, but it should work decently (especially if you use some rock crusher extensions with heims on the ends so the stock setup isn't binding with the extra angle on droop). You also have the ability to make up for some of the angle when you're welding your c wedges to the axle (the whole reason for degreed bushings is to correct caster.. but you can take care of this with careful consideration and placement of your c wedges on your shiney new d60).
That said you can use degreed bushings to make up for some of the angle that you get if you don't drop the brackets ALL the way. So you can use some 6" drop brackets and degreed bushings to make up for the rest. Not ideal, but it should work decently (especially if you use some rock crusher extensions with heims on the ends so the stock setup isn't binding with the extra angle on droop). You also have the ability to make up for some of the angle when you're welding your c wedges to the axle (the whole reason for degreed bushings is to correct caster.. but you can take care of this with careful consideration and placement of your c wedges on your shiney new d60).