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Would welding closer to the corner on the joint help much?
with one pass you'll have to go all the way into the corner,the other just outside
after the root pass then you will stagger the one going into the corner
use a wire brush a lot to clean up between passes
With 6013, I would strike the arc and then touch down with the rod until you can feel the material that you are working on (this needs to happen within a second or two) and then drag the rod out from the inside of the corner. Drag it just fast enough to make the weld puddle look like a half moon. Too fast and it gets pointy, you don't want that. One thing that might help you since you are just starting out, take a rod and cut it in the middle or burn it down half way and then weld your parts. A new, long piece of rod is more difficult for a new welder to control. The half lengths are easier to steady and will help you get your control down. After a while you won't think about it and you'll move to long pieces and have no problems.
If you can get them to let you burn 7018, you will throw rocks at the 6013 salesman the next time you see him. Burning 7018 is like riding in a Cadillac.
I usually use 6011 or 7018. There is one rod 7018AC that works great with the el cheapo buzz boxes. You are right Scott 7018 is the best when it comes to laying a nice bead.
My refresh button one of these days is just going to say "F**K YOU!"
Aint that the truth!
Originally Posted by Texas Outlaw
They used those at the last plant that I worked at in California. Every morning the janitor/groundskeeper would go into the office and collect the sticky traps with mice stuck on them. That afternoon he would set them out in the parking lot and run over them with a riding lawn mower.
I always thought he fit the profile of a serial killer.
Wierdo!
Originally Posted by preppypyro
Whats with chicks wanting to cuddle anyways? I "cuddle", for about 2 seconds before I try and get some!!
Thats what I'm talkin bout!
Originally Posted by deereman4020
I need some help with inside corner welds with a stick welder, for the welding class I'm taking. Does any one have some tips tricks or advise?
What exactly is the problem your having? Inside corner joint..are you talking about a Tee Joint?
So for those of you following my mouse saga, look at the surprise I found when I got home:
TWO FOR ONE!
Why, thank you Lisa, I'm quite proud of it...
These dang mice, what a pain. I had rats at my old house, only way to get rid of mine was for kelly and I to lay in the yard and shoot them as they ran past us. Oh yeah, they where that big. Norwegian wharf rats. Consider yourself lucky there just mice.
Alright, I can weld if you put the equipment in my hands. It's not pretty, but it usually works for what I need it for. Critical stuff, I leave up to someone with more experience.
However, I do like to learn, so can you all educate me on what all the different type of welding rods are, or what the difference is between all these codes/numbers you keep throwing out & why is one better than another? Like the 7018, 6013, 7014, 6011, etc. Do those numbers mean something specific?
Edit: Nice catch there Lisa. That ought to help.
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Nice catch Lisa!!! Hopefully those little buggers will be gone in no time if you can get two at a time!!!
Yeah definitely! I took both Mark and Dan's advice for the next trap set for tonight: I melted a marshmallow and let it dry on the bait pad - hardens like a rock so they have to "tug" on it, like Mark mentioned. I also put some spices on the pad of the trap to entice them more. We'll see if I get another by tonight.
Originally Posted by Powerstrokedlariat
Why, thank you Lisa, I'm quite proud of it...
These dang mice, what a pain. I had rats at my old house, only way to get rid of mine was for kelly and I to lay in the yard and shoot them as they ran past us. Oh yeah, they where that big. Norwegian wharf rats. Consider yourself lucky there just mice.
Wow, rats? I had a pet rat when I was a kid, and he was so stinkin smart. I had him potty trained! I wouldn't want to deal with anything that smart, unwanted visitors that is.
Dang I'm a day late on that Jacob. Looks like these guys already got you taken care of. 6011 is a good all around rod for general purpose welding as far as farm repair work. 7018's are real easy to get a great looking bead out of. But heck what am i saying I HATE stick welding and MIG for that matter. Glad I work for a company that runs mostly stainless steel and they dont believe in MIG welding on stainless because of the clean up.
Alright I'll bite, I now have the biggest deck on here...
EDIT- I should have left this one alone...
How deep are the sono tubes? If you don't mind broadcasting it, how much did you get for that? As for pure size I think I can beat that tomorrow if I can scan the one and only picture I have left of one I did in Alaska a couple of years ago. It is a 40x40 octagon and the 18" in fact on edit here I think 24" sono tubes are 4' deep. It is only 10 feet off of the ground, but is free standing. I had better be able to scan that picture after running off at the mouth here.
Alright, I can weld if you put the equipment in my hands. It's not pretty, but it usually works for what I need it for. Critical stuff, I leave up to someone with more experience.
However, I do like to learn, so can you all educate me on what all the different type of welding rods are, or what the difference is between all these codes/numbers you keep throwing out & why is one better than another? Like the 7018, 6013, 7014, 6011, etc. Do those numbers mean something specific?
Striking the arc I have no problem with. my problem with the weld was in the middle there was no filler material there was material on the side and bottom but the middle had a gap after I chipped away the flux.
I usually use 6011 or 7018. There is one rod 7018AC that works great with the el cheapo buzz boxes. You are right Scott 7018 is the best when it comes to laying a nice bead.
worse thing about 7018 if you don't have a rod oven it will absorb moisture and deteriate flux capabilities
when this happens it is no more than a mild steel rod that splatters a bunch
this is why I use 7014,after it ages it still welds the same and is a lot smoother burn than 7018 and you an also use it on A/C machines
7018 is still necessary if you need quick freeze capabilities(like for welding cast steel) but has to be dry
I forget what all the different rods are for and what the numbers mean, I was too busy chasing girlies and drinking beers back in high school when I shoulda been learning.
I once heated up a pair of vice grips with an acetylene torch and asked the teacher to grab them for me, funny as hell!
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