When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
As far as one being better than another...It would depend on which welder you asked on what day. HA HA. Naw it would really have more to do with the type of material(thickness, type, etc.) being welded, as to what kind of rod is better weld it with.
How deep are the sono tubes? If you don't mind broadcasting it, how much did you get for that? As for pure size I think I can beat that tomorrow if I can scan the one and only picture I have left of one I did in Alaska a couple of years ago. It is a 40x40 octagon and the 18" in fact on edit here I think 24" sono tubes are 4' deep. It is only 10 feet off of the ground, but is free standing. I had better be able to scan that picture after running off at the mouth here.
Well, the sono's are minimum 6' deep and then for the tall deck it has a grade beam buried 5' to the bottom, and 1'' rebar every 3'' o.c. like a cage. It was just under 1200 sq. ft. so you got me beat, but better show it up here or I'm not counting it...haha
Striking the arc I have no problem with. my problem with the weld was in the middle there was no filler material there was material on the side and bottom but the middle had a gap after I chipped away the flux.
Sounds like you may be moving to fast and not putting enough motion into the weld(puddle)
This is at the high point, now I'm just being cocky... Having coffee 25' up on a ladder in the mud. I was trying to show my employees that stuff has got to get done, one way or the other.
Dude... No need to get cocky with your deck!! We can see for ourselves.
We only have to do one pass right now. the joint is like an L we only have to do the inside corner.
Thats what I would also call a Tee joint. Just be sure you get your puddle started and join the two pieces and dont go to fast. With the 6011, 6010 type rods I found it easy to do a whip motion once I got the puddle started. I hope this stuff I'm telling you makes since. I can show people better than I can try to explain. That,s why I'd never make a good teacher.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
Top 10 Most Expensive Ford Trucks Ever Sold on Bring a Trailer
Joe Kucinski
2027 Ford Super Duty Buyer's Guide (Every Model, Engine, & Package)
Brett Foote
Top 10 Ford Truck Tragedies
Joe Kucinski
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Okay, and thanx. I remember in California in the 70's doing entire back yards at one step up with Redwood. Some over 4000 sq. feet and getting 2 bucks a foot for labor only. I was making a killing.
Sounds like you may be moving to fast and not putting enough motion into the weld(puddle)
Thats what I'm thinking is the problem. If I get any time to weld in class tomorow I will try moving the weld pool slower. The machines was using today was a lincoln TIG/stick combo welder. Now I know why I like MIG so much better.
Striking the arc I have no problem with. my problem with the weld was in the middle there was no filler material there was material on the side and bottom but the middle had a gap after I chipped away the flux.
Jacob, try what scott had suggested and use a short rod. Much eaiser to control. If you had a gap then you were probably moving the rod to fast. On a joint like you are doing I drag the puddle instead of pushing it, This way you can seewhere it is and control where the puddleis at all times. It just takes practice.
Originally Posted by rbaker6336
worse thing about 7018 if you don't have a rod oven it will absorb moisture and deteriate flux capabilities
when this happens it is no more than a mild steel rod that splatters a bunch
this is why I use 7014,after it ages it still welds the same and is a lot smoother burn than 7018 and you an also use it on A/C machines
7018 is still necessary if you need quick freeze capabilities(like for welding cast steel) but has to be dry
This is so true Ray. That is why I keep them in a sealed rod container. I have used the house oven to dry them out in the past. I'll have to try the 7014.
Thats what I'm thinking is the problem. If I get any time to weld in class tomorow I will try moving the weld pool slower. The machines was using today was a lincoln TIG/stick combo welder. Now I know why I like MIG so much better.
It can be kind of hard to distinguish between the flux and the actual filler metal puddle while your welding. Another thing that really helped me was switching to a "Gold" lens. It has a gold/red tint to it instead of the green like normal lenses. Makes things alot brighter but they may not want you to use those in school. Speaking of that what shade lens do yall use and have you ever had any problem seeing with it? Have they let ya'll try TIG yet?
Thats what I would also call a Tee joint. Just be sure you get your puddle started and join the two pieces and dont go to fast. With the 6011, 6010 type rods I found it easy to do a whip motion once I got the puddle started. I hope this stuff I'm telling you makes since. I can show people better than I can try to explain. That,s why I'd never make a good teacher.
I usually use a moon shaped motion when welding. What you are saying is kinda making sense. I know what you mean when you say you could show peoplewhat to do better than explaining it.