Unfortunately, no injectors arrived at my doorstep yesterday. Looks like it's going to be at least next weekend before the engine goes in the truck. I'd rather those injectors take a little extra time and be done right though, than rush it and mess something up.

While that did get me down, I didn't let it stop me. Started finally looking at the PCS harness install. Since pins 7-12 on the connector for the range selector (black one, driver's side of trans, right by where the selector cable hooks up) for the PCS harness are unterminated and need to be hooked up to the stock wires, I decided the easiest way for me to do that is pull the whole trans harness off the truck to work on it.

As I started pulling it, I was thinking that there's going to be a lot of extra junk wire under there that's not hooked up to a darn thing, so why not clean it up a little. I pulled all the loom and tape off the factory harness, traced all the wires that the PCS harness is replacing that I won't need anymore, marked all the wires that I'd need to hook to the PCS harness, and got rid of a bunch of wire and connectors.

Once all the junk was gone, I measured, marked, cut, soldered, and heat shrink wrapped any wire to wire connections that needed to be made. Then I combined what was left of the stock wiring and the PCS harness and put new wire loom around everything. It was a good bit of work, several hours anyway taking my time, but I'm being pretty particular about trying to make this look clean. Removing all that wire is by no means a necessary thing for a conversion, just something I wanted to do. Big thanks to the guys here who helped me with wiring diagrams for the trans.

Here's a couple pics comparing the two. First picture, stock harness on the top and PCS on the bottom. Notice the two connectors on the stock harness (right side of pic) that are not on the PCS harness...those are the controls for the electronic transfer case. That's pretty much the only thing from that harness that was kept.




Second picture, the finished result. PCS harness on the inside, what's remaining of the stock harness on the outside. At about the 4:00 position on this pic is a small piece of loom connecting the two that contains the wires soldered together from the stock harness to the PCS harness. I probably could have combined everything into one loom, but honestly, I didn't feel like stripping the perfectly good loom off the PCS harness. The stock loom was all covered in oil and grime.




Now to just get that harness put back in the truck, place the PCS somewhere in the cab and hook up any wires there it might need. It will need the obligitory power & ground, a tach signal, and throttle position signal which are easy, both come right off the engine harness). Optional items, which I'll probably hook up are coolant temp signal -- to adjust shift stragety for a cold engine, if you want, and the brake light signal to control TC unlock, if you wanted.

While my injectors didn't come in, I did get my fittings and hoses for my fuel system. I figure I'll try to get some of that fabbed up this weekend. The only thing I can't do with that is the final hose length to the regulator and the return hose from the regulator to the tank.

Oh, and looking at my front crossmember after I hot-water power washed it a couple days ago, I think it and some of the inner frame could stand to be painted a little, so I'm going to try and do that as well this weekend.

 

Looking excellent. Shes gonna look sharp under the hood with fresh paint. Plus not to mention it should last along time.

 

Good Job, that may not be seen but I bet it makes you feel a lot better because it was done right.

 

Nice Jeremy. It's neat following the progress and of course your meticulous attention to detail. I think I'm going to need a ride when its all done!

 

I'm next!!!!!!!!

 

Jeremy........you are doing a fantastic job on the conversion! All the extra little things you're doing will make a HUGE difference in the end! I'm jealous of the guys who live close to ya......I'd love a ride in that rig once it's done!!!!

 

Looks like everything is going rather well. Are you planning on adding any aux electric circuits in? If you are or might, now might be the easiest time to layout and install. Maybe even run a 10 or 8 guage cable into the cab for the who knows what down the road.

 

I claim one of the first rides when Jeremy makes it to Smokin . Jeremy you have truely done a great job on this conversion. I am sure it has helped out a few people who decide to do it because you have taken pictures and described it every step of the way, reps to you and good luck!

 

Keep it coming Jeremy. Don't feel bad, I haven't even started my truck in about 2 weeks. That is by choice though with work and finally enjoying my pool and not toiling away in the back yard. Next week I am going golfing.

Gotta work tomorrow. Titans spanked the Rams.

Progress looks good.

 

Thanks for all the kind words guys. One thing's for sure, I'm not gonna be stingy with the rides in this thing. I'll be happy to show it off.

Yes, and I'm already laying it out and planning it now. I'm looking for clean, so I've been on a quest to tidy up the wiring. I had a bunch of little wires for things that needed power, which were running straight to one of the battery terminal post nuts. That simply won't do anymore.

What I've found is some power distribution blocks at the car stereo store, that will work great. One can accept 2 separate 0 gauge wires, each on a separate fused circuit, with 4 & 8 gauge output wires, and it's rated at I think 250 amps. That will be the central source for power. From that, I'm going to a smaller distribuiton box that inputs a single 4 or 8 gauge wire and has about 8 different, individually fused circuits for output, and I believe it's rated at 125 amps. So, those should make everything clean and neat.

I may also add a second small distribution box in the cab for all the electronics that need keyed power. Pull the source from the first small dist box and use a current keyed power wire that would trigger a relay to supply power to the box. Not sure yet how I might want to do that though. Probably just build something myself that's functional, but not very eye catching and just hide it under the dash somewhere.

Not a big football fan...couldn't tell you how it was supposed to go down. Didn't even know they started playing yet.
Edit: felt like it was part of my duty as a MO resident to at least acknowledge your comment.

 

Looking great Jeremy. to hell with the ride alongs..... I WANNA DRIVE IT.

 

I got the front crossmember and part of the front frame painted. It looks a lot better now.




Also got my fuel delivery on the engine fabbed up and installed. I'm taking my 1/2" line out of my Aeromotive inline filter up to the regulator, through the filter I mounted on the engine, then to a y-block out of the filter. Dirty fuel will absoutley kill these CR injectors, so I'm actually running 3 filters. My 2 micron Dahl 150 pre-pump, the inline 10 micron Aeromotive post pump on the frame, and the 2 micron Fleetguard canister filter that's moutned on the engine. That should keep my fuel plenty clean.

Out of the y-block I've got one side with a 3/8" line going to the stock CP3 pump. To get the fuel line into the CP3 pump, I had to get a fitting from Aeroquip that they're really proud of at $30. It's a metric thread on one side to go into the CP3 pump and the other side is 6 AN for the fuel line. The other side of the y-block is capped off for future use. I went ahead an put the y-block in there so when I add a second CP3 pump, it will be really easy to plumb in the fuel delivery to it.

I've got a mechanical fuel pressure gauge on the y-block and the sending unit for my in cab fuel pressure gauge is in the regulator. The stock fuel return line and its quick connect fitting hooks directly up to the fuel return line from the CP3 pump and fuel rail. Because of that, I've got to run a second fuel return line for the regulator. I'm planning on running it back to a tee I put together that will go into the vent line attached to the fuel filler neck.

Here are some pics of the fuel stuff mounted on the engine. There are more in my album. Click any pic to take you there.

Overview of entire system:




Y-block, Fleetguard filter, and regulator:




Aeroquip fitting into the CP3 pump:




Tee for fuel return from regulator:




Tomorrow I'm going to try and get the harness for the PCS put on the truck, get the PCS put in place in the cab, put the tee for fuel return in the vent line, and may start on some of the other wiring -- like stripping out the Ford engine harness of everything I don't need, and marking the wires on the Cummins engine that I'll need to hook up.

 

Looking good. Cant wait to see it all done.

 

Almost makes me want to drive back East for Smokin' to see her all done.... maybe if fuel drops back to $2.50ish....

 

Awwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwweeeeeessssssssoooooooooommmmmmmm meeeeeeeeeee