Odometer Blackout Problem Fixed!!!
New User
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
Thank You, Thank You, Thank You! This problem has been bugging my wife for a year now. She has a company gas card and has to document her miles, so this has been a huge problem for her.
Here are a extra few tricks/recommendations that I learned in this process:
1) The headlight switch is tricky (I didn't know that the **** is its own tool to remove the switch). I copied and pasted the procedure below:
Disconnect the battery ground cable
.
Turn the headlamp switch **** to the headlamp position and pull the ****.
Insert a thin tool to release the headlamp switch **** and remove. (There is a small cut out in the bottom of the ****. You can use a thin screwdriver or pick to press the tab)
Turn the headlamp switch **** 180 degrees and install. (Just put the **** back on upside down)
Turn counterclockwise until the back of the headlamp switch **** is in the OFF position.
Turn the headlamp switch **** fully clockwise.
Remove the headlamp switch. (just pull it straight out)
Pull the headlamp switch from the instrument panel.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
2) The P/R/Drive indicator is held into the gauge cluster by a couple of clips.
3) You need to pinch the electrical plugs on the back of the gauge cluster with your fingers to remove them. Kinda hard with big hands.
4) You need a torqx 15 to remove the screws on the back of gauge cluster.
5) Use a fine point soldering iron. Man those pins are SMALL!
Thanks again!!!
Here are a extra few tricks/recommendations that I learned in this process:
1) The headlight switch is tricky (I didn't know that the **** is its own tool to remove the switch). I copied and pasted the procedure below:
Disconnect the battery ground cable
.
Turn the headlamp switch **** to the headlamp position and pull the ****.
Insert a thin tool to release the headlamp switch **** and remove. (There is a small cut out in the bottom of the ****. You can use a thin screwdriver or pick to press the tab)
Turn the headlamp switch **** 180 degrees and install. (Just put the **** back on upside down)
Turn counterclockwise until the back of the headlamp switch **** is in the OFF position.
Turn the headlamp switch **** fully clockwise.
Remove the headlamp switch. (just pull it straight out)
Pull the headlamp switch from the instrument panel.
Disconnect the electrical connectors.
2) The P/R/Drive indicator is held into the gauge cluster by a couple of clips.
3) You need to pinch the electrical plugs on the back of the gauge cluster with your fingers to remove them. Kinda hard with big hands.
4) You need a torqx 15 to remove the screws on the back of gauge cluster.
5) Use a fine point soldering iron. Man those pins are SMALL!
Thanks again!!!
New User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
There is a secret to getting the headlight switch out, it all depends on if its the first 6 mnths of 99 or the last 6 months of the 99. Ford switched the switches halway through. I think the first 6 months they pry out, and the last 6 mnths turn the switch bacwards and it releases it! you turn it backwards and it releases the panel, I have the same problem with the odometer, great thread! Gonna fix it shortly! I also have a rear end leak between the yoke and the driveshaft? Any help there? Is there a bolt that holds the flange to the rear end? Thanks Dskarl
Last edited by dskarl; Aug 1, 2004 at 09:58 PM. Reason: more info
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 753
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
Originally Posted by dakota_viking
KR1,
The cluster is very easy to remove. You have to remove the headlight switch, the cover just above the steering column, and the panel that houses the headlight switch and also goes around the cluster. Once that is out, just remove 4 bolts, 2 connectors and the gear display (just squeeze tabs and remove). With that, the cluster is out of the dash and in your hands.
It took me a total of about 14 minutes and that included disconnecting the battery (do this before you do anything else)
Good luck.
The cluster is very easy to remove. You have to remove the headlight switch, the cover just above the steering column, and the panel that houses the headlight switch and also goes around the cluster. Once that is out, just remove 4 bolts, 2 connectors and the gear display (just squeeze tabs and remove). With that, the cluster is out of the dash and in your hands.
It took me a total of about 14 minutes and that included disconnecting the battery (do this before you do anything else)
Good luck.
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 12
From: Sioux Falls SD
My 99 is doing this too. Started about a year ago with one freak instance. Now does it multiple times per day.
If it is not fixed right away will the panel burn out from the poor connection?
Thanks Dan
If it is not fixed right away will the panel burn out from the poor connection?
Thanks Dan
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 753
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
Originally Posted by 99F150
My 99 is doing this too. Started about a year ago with one freak instance. Now does it multiple times per day.
If it is not fixed right away will the panel burn out from the poor connection?
Thanks Dan
If it is not fixed right away will the panel burn out from the poor connection?
Thanks Dan
I decided to fix mine because I had got a new set of gauge faces and wanted to make sure my cluster wasn't going to need to be replaced.
Good luck!
Tim
New User
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
This is was hell of a money saving post. The odometer coming on and off was annoying as heck. I didn't see a cold solder joint but gave it a small amount of solder anyway. Three weeks later and it is still working like new. a couple of things that made it eaiser for me. I had to remove the front cover to the odometer so I could get to the two clips that hold the trans indicator in place. Also there is a small gray rubber boot that goes on the end of the odometer reset button. You will see it when you seperate the board drom the housing. Make sure it is still on when you put it back together. I found out the hard way after I was finished and had to reassemble it again to install the gray boot.
Freshman User
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
1999 navi
I am glad I found this thread I was going to fork over the scratch soon. Does anyone know if the Navigator is the same? I have auto lights so no **** to remove to get at the guages but there is a panel that needs to be removed that holds the switches for the lights.
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Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 1,344
Likes: 12
From: Sioux Falls SD
Originally Posted by MacDaddy
Well I took the plunge this weekend and decided to pull the cluster out and take a look. My 1999 F150 has had odometer problem since about 50000 miles. Now has 69000 and I was tired of playing hide and go seek with it. Did just as Dakota said. Didn't have the magnifying glass which would have really come in handy but had the wife look at the pins and the picture that Dakota posted and sure enough it was the same one. Took a pencil type soldering iron with a very small tip and just touched pin and put a VERY small amount around the pin and it works like new. Looks odd now to look down and see odometer all lit up. Not a bad job if you take your time and don't get in a hurry. Thanks to Dakota Viking I saved myself about $300 plus from what I have heard. It appears that there are quite a few trucks out there with this problem.
Thanks for saving me the cash Dan
Freshman User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Central MN
Wow am I glad I found this post! My wifes 2001 SuperCrew is doing the same thing at 67,000. I bought the extended warranty but the dealership is trying to worm out of the repair by telling me that it is a very intermittent problem and that they can't fix it if it is not acting up. Man I hate liers! If it is alright with all of you I would like to coppy this whole string and take it to my dealer and make them eat their words! I love my Fords just not my local dealer!
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 753
Likes: 2
From: Oklahoma
Originally Posted by papadace
Wow am I glad I found this post! My wifes 2001 SuperCrew is doing the same thing at 67,000. I bought the extended warranty but the dealership is trying to worm out of the repair by telling me that it is a very intermittent problem and that they can't fix it if it is not acting up. Man I hate liers! If it is alright with all of you I would like to coppy this whole string and take it to my dealer and make them eat their words! I love my Fords just not my local dealer!
When I first noticed the problem, my Ford service tech just stared at me and said "Replace the cluster!"
Not all of us can throw out cash like that!
Good Luck!
Tim
Junior User
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
From: Austin
Awesome post, doing it this weekend, hoping it will save me that $300. Anyone know how easy it would be to switch out the dash lights for l.e.d.s? I was thinking about switching mine to match my amps and deck? just sorta curious, could end up deciding it a little too ricey for me.
Great Fix!
