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Im sticking with stock tires. I'm sure I will replace everything later on anyway. I want to get the axle bolted to the truck before I put to much money into it to make sure it all works. Btw what brand and viscosity fluid should I use in this diff?
75W90 is what is specified for the front diffs. Since it doesn’t run full time it does not need to be synthetic. This might change if you live in mud full-time. I like Schaeffer’s.
EDIT: You and I were typing at the same time. I have added stuff to my previous post.
75W90 is what is specified for the front diffs. Since it doesn’t run full time it does not need to be synthetic. This might change if you live in mud full-time. I like Schaeffer’s.
EDIT: You and I were typing at the same time. I have added stuff to my previous post.
I noticed
I added to mine as well 😂
Any particular brand you like for the fluid?
I will keep in mind that the Moog bearings do hold up pretty well in case I need to replace them in the future.
Joel was worried that the inside of the axle might have been messed up because the wheels did not want to turn but, look what I found. Also I believe the calipers were sticking. Took the calipers off and the wheels spin freely, and both locking hubs work properly.
There's a little bit of rubber floating around on here but it is not wet. Is this the knuckle seal you were talking about?
I finally got my tow hooks off. They didn't look all that Rusty butt, the impact broke the welds that held the nuts on top. I had to get a wrench and put on top and use a breaker bar all the way out. I had penetrating oil on the threads and you could tell when it started lubricating. When it started lubricating the bolt started jumping when you got it to spin it almost sounded like my ratchet was breaking. It was hard all the way out. But I got them off. Now I'm going to wire a wheel all the threads and spray the crap out of it with lube and put it back on. It'll be ready to come off when it needs to.
Before putting them back on, and most importantly....
There's a little bit of rubber floating around on here but it is not wet. Is this the knuckle seal you were talking about?
My dust seals look the same... I’m a bad boy and don’t plan on disassembling just to replace these seals. Unless someone has an easier method than removing all the hub parts. Or maybe someone has a “patch” method that will get some more miles out of them.
I agree with FTN, you work fast. If I miss a day reading there’s a lot to catch up on!
My dust seals look the same... I’m a bad boy and don’t plan on disassembling just to replace these seals. Unless someone has an easier method than removing all the hub parts. Or maybe someone has a “patch” method that will get some more miles out of them.
I agree with FTN, you work fast. If I miss a day reading there’s a lot to catch up on!
Oh I see! It's one of those kinds of things! If you say it's not all that important and don't worry about it I am not going to disassemble the whole hub to change out either! I guess I might become a bad boy too! Quick question though, could you maybe cut the seal and wrap it around the shaft and then maybe put some sealer / gasket maker on the two cut ends of the seal to seal it back together and then push it in? Just a thought but I know nothing about how the dust seal fits. Does it just sit in there or is it press fit, do you have to hammer it in? Just a thought.
Thank you both (you and FTN) for the complement! I'm very excited for this 4x4 swap! I'm trying to get everything done I can with the little time off I have during the weekends. Another question, as you saw I got the whole 4x4 front end suspension and all off in one piece, would it be feasible to Jack the whole thing up without disassembling anything and bolt the whole unit on all at once? Then I wouldn't have to spend very much time at all putting the front end on I would literally just have to stick it up there and stick some bolts in it! What do you think?
I'm picking my mom up from the bar and then I'm going to go to Walmart and get some diff fluid and first thing in the morning I'm going to pull the case cover off! I might pick up a set of these dust seals and try my idea! Whether I use sealer or super glue it would more than likely hold the seal together, they actually make o-ring kits that you cut o-rings to length and you super glue to glue them together so in my mind this seems like a good idea!
Oh I see! It's one of those kinds of things! If you say it's not all that important and don't worry about it I am not going to disassemble the whole hub to change out either! I guess I might become a bad boy too! Quick question though, could you maybe cut the seal and wrap it around the shaft and then maybe put some sealer / gasket maker on the two cut ends of the seal to seal it back together and then push it in? Just a thought but I know nothing about how the dust seal fits. Does it just sit in there or is it press fit, do you have to hammer it in? Just a thought.
…
would it be feasible to Jack the whole thing up without disassembling anything and bolt the whole unit on all at once? Then I wouldn't have to spend very much time at all putting the front end on I would literally just have to stick it up there and stick some bolts in it! What do you think?
Whoa now, don’t take that as advice. I’m not sure how important it is. Let’s let the others chime in for this one (to teach me too). My truck is a garage queen and pavement princess that doesn’t get many miles per year. So I figure it isn’t worth the hassle in my case. EDIT: I may have to look at mine again. Racking my brain but I thought the loose seal portion on mine was on the inner side of the hub instead of the axle tube.
Not sure about your idea of splitting. From what I saw in the video cowboy shared it, seems the seal pressed onto the shaft and then just rides in the axle tube rotating with the shaft.
Your knowledge goes way beyond mine on the 4wd swap aspect. This isn’t something I’ve attempted. But from a couch mechanic standpoint I would be thinking the same thing as you. Roll it under as an assembly and bolt ‘et up. @SkySkiJason would be a good one to ask.
The seals are installed/pressed on the axle shafts.
No reason to do anything. Most trucks look like that.
Ive rarely seen it cause a problem, the exception is mud trucks that regularly submerge the axle in sandy/muddy conditions. These trucks needed inner axle seals.
If the axles are out for some reason, might as well replace dust seals. They aren’t expensive. But I wouldn’t do it just because.
I would leave the dust seals alone. You do have to press them on. It looks like yours are still seated. Even with the cracks that yours have, the fact that they are still seated on the shaft means they will continue to block larger debris.
SSJ, thanks for the quick response!
Look up at my edit on the previous post. Do I need to get out of the recliner? Is there a dust seal on the inner side of the hub too?
I usually install the spring hangers and shackle hangers, etc on the truck and roll the rest under and bolt it up.
That whole process from 2wd pulling into shop and driving out with 4wd front axle can be done in less than 4hrs.
The track bar is a PITA. I like to install it LAST. With the tires on the ground off and off the jacks, turn steering wheel to push axle side to side to help line up the bolt.
Also, rear blocks may not be needed. Some trucks will sit ‘level’ without blocks. New ProComp blocks and u-bolts are available pretty reasonably at Summit, etc in 1/2” increments. After axle is in place you can determine how much lift you want in rear to get a little rake if you want it.
SSJ, thanks for the quick response!
Look up at my edit on the previous post. Do I need to get out of the recliner? Is there a dust seal on the inner side of the hub too?
The ‘dust seal’ is on the inner side.
The outside or knuckle side is the knuckle seal/vacuum seal. It also has a ring that fails and sits loose on the stub shaft. If the axle doesn’t move up and down in the ‘C’ - you’re good.
The seals are installed/pressed on the axle shafts.
No reason to do anything. Most trucks look like that.
Ive rarely seen it cause a problem, the exception is mud trucks that regularly submerge the axle in sandy/muddy conditions. These trucks needed inner axle seals.
If the axles are out for some reason, might as well replace dust seals. They aren’t expensive. But I wouldn’t do it just because.
Originally Posted by F0rdc0wb0y
I would leave the dust seals alone. You do have to press them on. It looks like yours are still seated. Even with the cracks that yours have, the fact that they are still seated on the shaft means they will continue to block larger debris.
Originally Posted by RacinJasonWV
Whoa now, don’t take that as advice. I’m not sure how important it is. Let’s let the others chime in for this one (to teach me too). My truck is a garage queen and pavement princess that doesn’t get many miles per year. So I figure it isn’t worth the hassle in my case. EDIT: I may have to look at mine again. Racking my brain but I thought the loose seal portion on mine was on the inner side of the hub instead of the axle tube.
Not sure about your idea of splitting. From what I saw in the video cowboy shared it, seems the seal pressed onto the shaft and then just rides in the axle tube rotating with the shaft.
Your knowledge goes way beyond mine on the 4wd swap aspect. This isn’t something I’ve attempted. But from a couch mechanic standpoint I would be thinking the same thing as you. Roll it under as an assembly and bolt ‘et up. @SkySkiJason would be a good one to ask.
I was unaware of how the seal was installed. Now that I know it is press fit, I will leave it be. Mine will do what I need anyway
Quick question though, could you maybe cut the seal and wrap it around the shaft and then maybe put some sealer / gasket maker on the two cut ends of the seal to seal it back together and then push it in? Just a thought but I know nothing about how the dust seal fits. Does it just sit in there or is it press fit, do you have to hammer it in? Just a thought. 
