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Oh yeah... I agree. I like the painted bumpers also.
Let us know what brands you went with and what you think...
I'll be making a post on the VLEDs also at one point...
I got mine here www.headlightrevolution.com they test them there. I believe there was a video posted here about them. I got the GTR ultra 2's I also got a trun signal kit and side marker lights. No reason not to replace all 3 at the same time.
I got mine here www.headlightrevolution.com they test them there. I believe there was a video posted here about them. I got the GTR ultra 2's I also got a trun signal kit and side marker lights. No reason not to replace all 3 at the same time.
Yep, great site that I've been to many times.
Let me what you think about the GTRs H13s... headlight bulbs. I like that they have a lifetime warranty since you're dropping $$$ on them.
I like these from Morimoto because they flow the hot exhaust air into the light housings to keep the headlight housings free of snow and ice.
I'm trying to find a review that I've seen for our gen truck for LED H13 bulbs. The guy had a F550 and was raving about them.
What other bulbs you go with?
For my VLEDs, I pulled them out in April of last year (22). The front ambers were staying on bright mode and one of the rear red bulbs went out. I was planning on doing videos on them sooner to send to VLEDs for warranty but didn't do them until December. I almost thought I was too late because I bought them 3 years ago in December. The warranty period is 3 years. They warrantied the one rear bulb, you have to cut the wire to the bulb and send them a pic, so I already have a new red V6 Extreme bulb in my possession.
The front V6 Extreme ambers they wanted me to put in the rear connectors. I did and found they are still good. They ended up working just fine. When I locked and unlocked the truck, they would functioned like normal. In unlock mode, they first go on high mode, then a second later, go to low mode (output) like the stock incandecent bulbs. So I shoot back an email and they replied that the tech guys said that those require a relay system and the plug in resistors they have. They said something about the computer getting confused... The front ambers were designed that you don't need resistors but they said they have seen this for the Ford trucks. They currently have a sale going on now until the 3rd of this year for New Years. I'll post up when I reinstall the bulbs.
I have found another brand of extreme LED bulbs for the 3157 application and they have a lifetime warranty but are also a little cheaper than the VLEDs, which ain't cheap. More to come at one point.
I hope mine come soon so I can post some before and after photos
These are what I got then I just added the amber turn signal bulbs and side marker lights also in amber https://www.headlightrevolution.com/...a-2?quantity=1
Found these not long ago. They look very similar to the VLEDs V6 Extremes I have... except the bulb design itself, the VLEDs design uses a solid piece of clear plastic which is used to fill the directional reflector with light as does the i-LED Ultra but it's a different design. Plus the GTR i-LED Ultras have a lifetime warranty where the VLEDs is only 3 years.
Here's the link to the V6 bulbs. I have the Extremes. It does look like they have re-designed the lens to a new "radial" lens design... the Extremes have 6 Cree chips. I am going to email VLEDs and get more information.
Here's the link to the GTR i-LED Ultra 3157 bulbs. What makes these different from the VLEDs is this:
"I-DRIVER: The intelligent LED Drivers have been tuned to maximize intensity without compromising in the reliability department. The high-output mode is over-driven for < 2 sec to maximize initial intensity, before ramping down to a more conservative drive rate that the system can handle long term."
which I believe allows them to offer a lifetime warranty... The i-LED Ultras have 9 Proprietary SMD chips.
Just looked into the Cree versus SMD and Cree's are just a brand of SMDs. Apparently they are rectangular in shape, which the i-LED Ultras are but that doesn't necessarily make them Cree. But they do have a lifetime warranty where the VLEDs, who state Cree chips, do not at 3 years.
Not an expert just doing some research here and passing on. Anyone who knows any better or more, please feel free to pass on the info here.
I will add the pros and cons of the VLEDs once I have them back in my truck, because there are some cons. .
This lighting crap is expensive that's the reason I have a hard time pulling the trigger. I have had those Sylvania Slverstreak and they didn't lat a year. I do hope they last a long time because I still have the stock lights 7 years going strong LOL Thanks for the research. I should see them this week.I realy have no idea as I just told the guy what I wanted and ordered over the phone.
This lighting crap is expensive that's the reason I have a hard time pulling the trigger. I have had those Sylvania Slverstreak and they didn't lat a year. I do hope they last a long time because I still have the stock lights 7 years going strong LOL Thanks for the research. I should see them this week.I realy have no idea as I just told the guy what I wanted and ordered over the phone.
Yep, this LED lighting crap is expensive for sure...
No problem. Post up pics of the bulbs you went with.
Remember, we have a "Pics or it didn't happen" policy here.
Been running Beamtech LEDs in both headlights and fog lights (no fans), Sylvania orange in the side mirrors, red in the third brake light, white in the license plate lights, and some crazy bright LEDs for the reverse lights and bed lights for 4 years now. Drive to work every day in the dark so these LEDs get used.
Took my truck for a ride on Monday to get the impending active regen out of the way... Truck was at 95%. Drove at least 90 miles that day. REGEN was 432 miles out. I was surprised it did because I was plowing, and it builds soot fairly fast, with the last storm we had but once again, "ski country" where I live, got way less snow than the city and North towns did.
It was 24 miles long and truck was at 35% when it shut off. It cooked down to 30% as I kept driving. After it cooled down, I made a stop in town and on restart, truck was at 25%. Got back onto the expressway and jumped back up to 30% quickly.
I took pics of my iDash regen screen I have set up during it...
At the start...
Getting there...
The iDash always drops quicker than the truck...
EGT4 stays hot for a bit so need to drive awhile to cool her off.
Cooled down...
Last edited by Overkill2; Jan 4, 2023 at 05:06 AM.
Reason: Add to post
even if you had a recent “ REGEN trigger” type regen based on soot level….the truck is still going to active regen again 500 miles from the previous 500 mile regen?
even if you had a recent “ REGEN trigger” type regen based on soot level….the truck is still going to active regen again 500 miles from the previous 500 mile regen?
My iDash used to go over 100%. My truck always goes active when the dash reads "FULL" which I'll assume is 100%.
It's been mentioned here by someone smarter than I that the DPF isn't completely full when it goes "FULL." That would mean it's plugged then...
It seems since I started plowing, the iDash stays below 100%. I'm wondering if the software is adaptive. We'll see what happens for the next one and where the iDash SL% is at that time.
I'll have to check my notes but it may have been my last regen that went closer to 500 miles.
I bought some battery oil so I can give my batteries a lube job and be done with these various escaping gas corrosion problems.
the theory of operation is that you put an once in each cell. The oil with a secret sauce sits on top of the acid. When the acid bubbles from charging …the layer of oil traps the gas and the trapped gas then turns back to liquid.
