Your fuel filter looks really good and thanks for the tip for the 18-20 priming cycles and I'll be doing this quantity going forwards. Having said that I typically would do ~10 cycles and the engine would turn over ~2-3 seconds longer to start up.

 

Not sure I agree with this guy. I do know that the 08-10 trucks with the 6.4PSD made such poor fuel economy that Ford increased the size of the bumper air dam in 09 in an effort to improve the terrible fuel economy.

 

What I did initially for the priming cycles was double the recommended number of six cycles to 12. Then I've done 15 cycles and she still turned over that period of a few seconds like you stated... this time, the truck fired right up.

That's why I posted this up... want to get people's take on this... I have no idea.

 

there have been some threads in the superduty section about the air dams, one was comparing the 4X4, the 2X4 and the raptor, all different heights,last time I read in there no one was complaining about cooling issues

 

Yeah, I'm just wondering if what that guy said has any factual info behind it or not... who knows...

 

100k club congrats! Just rolled 100 myself but bought it with 85 lol. Have you owned since new?

I primed the fuel system 12+ times too lol. At least 6-7 cycles per filter. Started up right away

 

Thank you... yep, bought her brand new. My 7 year/125k mile extended warranty will be up at the end of December this year. She's paid off in February... can't wait.

Like I mentioned, I've done double the fuel filter priming cycles at 12, even went to 15, but she still cranked a few seconds before firing off. From now on in, it's 18 to 20 cycles for me.

 

Yeah I have seen the other threads talking about this but it hasn't persuaded me one way or the other and I haver just left the larger air dam in place. The higher cut for the 2WD dams do look better, and I can't say I haven't thought about doing it to mine, but I haven't actually plunged off and done anything with it. Can't say I will either since most of my driving is on paved or gravel roads and I don't really need the extra clearance.

As for repriming the fuel pump, I had to reprime it when I installed the DPK and another time when I changed the filters. I let it cycle probably 10 or 12 times, which was a few times after it started sounding different when we would cycle the key, and it started right up.

 

I also have been thinking about trimming mine, it's got a couple little cracks in the bottom edge when I bought it. That would be a warmer weather project so we will see.
As far as the priming after FF change I've been doing 10 - 12 & have not noticed it taking longer to crank. I have been turning the key on & listening to the under hood filter to stop "wistling" then do a couple more.

 

Headlight bulb. It went right in and I didn't have to rotate the bulb.

Side marker lights my original ones were burnt out and the sockets look like they got hot. These are very bright

Look how cool the turn lights look. These are also very nice.

These are the resistors that you need for the turn signal I used my prob in the socket to see which wire to hook up. I didn't have to strip all 3 wires.

This is the stock lights look at how they suck LOL

Now this is what Ford should have done in the first place. Why is it that headlights are not the first thing Ford should make cool. Lucky for me my 12 SHO has projector beam headlights. stock

This is the turn light in the running light mode

The side marker light is alive. These were taken in the daytime.
It looks like I need to replace the light assembly I am not sure why the bottom looks so pitted but it's not over the entire lens. Next month the stop light backup get changed. I was looking at fog lights and Man those are expensive. I am considering just changing the bulb. I use my lights all the time. I have yet to drive my truck at night LOL.

 

Thanks Dave for the offer. I had to load these one at a time. I got greedy and tried to load 4 and it locked me out LOL. It got to 10% and you have to wait for a few seconds and then it will count up.

 

Nice!

Make sure those Ultra 2s are clocked correctly...if you haven't. The bulbs have to be completely vertical, meaning the LEDs centered in order for them to function like a halogen bulb. If not, they will not have a correct beam pattern and will throw out light incorrectly resulting in a lot of glare.

From VLEDs website:


There should be no angle, meaning the LEDs should not be angled up and down...

I'm also curious to see what you think of those Ultra 2s at night.

Those Ultra2s were one of what I considered. But I'm leaning towards the Morimoto 2Stroke 3.0s as they have the internal fan design that is sealed from the outside and keeps the headlight assembly warm so it stays snow and ice free -- something you don't have to worry about.


As to those GTR 3157 bulbs, those do look slick. I just don't like that you have to splice the bulb wires to add the resistors. That's why I went with the VLEDs which have the plug in resistors. But of course, the VLEDs are more expensive.

Great job buddy!

EDIT

Yep, complete LED fog light housings are not cheap. I went with Diode Dynamics replacement fog light assemblies. They are now $520 a set now I believe. I got them on sale and they were under 500. 8 year warranty. I adjusted them down but still have to see how they are at 25' and see if they are where they are supposed to be... they throw a lot of light. Prior to, they were too high...

 

Mine have the fan on the back of the light. I thought $380 was a nice price for all of that. I just hope they last a long time because I always turn my lights on even in the daytime. I want people to be able to see me.

 

I wish you luck with them, Bone...

Let me know what you think, about the Ultra2 H13s, when you drive at night buddy... would you? Thanks.

 

This is a picture of my stock headlights only...




Picture with the Diode Dynamics SS3 LED fog lights on also...


These throw a lot of light out to the sides than just the headlights themselves... I believe they are close to where they should be but i still need to check them with a aiming test at 25 feet...