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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 09:00 AM
  #196  
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You guys are starting to look like this.

 
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 09:21 AM
  #197  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
You guys are starting to look like this.
Now THAT'S my goal 😁
 
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 09:49 AM
  #198  
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Originally Posted by schlepprock250
Yeah this was a Christmas gift from my wife. 12.1 inch display Android entertainment unit. This particular unit has quite a few bad reviews. But after researching for quite some time before she purchased it, my opinion is most of the bad reviews are from user error and lack of understanding Android. Apple IOS is a good system, but it's simplistic and minimal compared to Android. Meaning if someone that's solely been an Apple iPhone user gets this Android unit they won't have a clue about setting it up and operating it. It's VERY complex. Add to that, it's fully married to the Ford Sync system so it retains all oem functionality. My wife and I did the install, took about three hours, and since then it's been flawless without any of the issues I've read about. One thing I will mention about issues people are having. I've seen so many posts in different groups I follow about this issue or that issue. The one thing they have in common is that the vehicle they are running it in has dual climate control and auto hvac. Mine is an XLT premium so I don't have that, I still have the ***** for the fan and temperature. The auto hvac and dual climate controls are married in digitally with this system, and I believe they don't quite have it right.
I find that most complaints about electronics are user error or unfamiliarity with the design of the product. Sometimes people don't understand the terminology or the intended use of the product, only what they want it to do.

It looks factory! So much so that when you first posted it, I thought it was factory. Well done to you and your wife for a clean install.
 
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Old Dec 30, 2020 | 11:08 AM
  #199  
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Originally Posted by Sous
I find that most complaints about electronics are user error or unfamiliarity with the design of the product. Sometimes people don't understand the terminology or the intended use of the product, only what they want it to do.

It looks factory! So much so that when you first posted it, I thought it was factory. Well done to you and your wife for a clean install.
Thanks Sous
 
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 05:40 PM
  #200  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Mark, just so other readers are clear, do you happen to have a link or image for your ELM bluetooth scan tool? This will serve as a confirmation of which scan tool should not be left plugged in based on your shared experience.
Sorry for the long get-back on this. The Bluetooth adapter I'm using is this one, and it is still available. Mine will drain the battery, but it it quite old, so I don't know that a new one, with, presumably newer firmware, would do the same thing.

Mark
 
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Old Jan 4, 2021 | 05:52 PM
  #201  
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Mark, thanks for getting back to us! I have pasted an image of the scan tool you have just in case the link goes dead (pun intended) one day.

ELM327 OBD BLUETOOTH DIAGNOSTIC INTERFACE



 
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Old Jan 5, 2021 | 08:25 AM
  #202  
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Originally Posted by Sous
Mark, thanks for getting back to us! I have pasted an image of the scan tool you have just in case the link goes dead (pun intended) one day.

ELM327 OBD BLUETOOTH DIAGNOSTIC INTERFACE



I have a few of these POS’s. Either they never worked or would not work reliably. I was using them with Torque Pro. Have not tried other programs. For a long time I thought it was TP that sucked (shutting off, losing connection and even shutting the truck off). I wonder how many people having trouble with TP are using a junk dongle like this?

I do not recommend them...
 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 12:56 PM
  #203  
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Just popping in to say: the story on crimping vs. soldering is not quite as simple as it was made out to be in the last few posts.

95% of crimps are worse than a half decent soldering job because both the ferrules and the tools used are inadequate. You CAN make excellent crimps that CAN be better than soldering with real crimpers (which very few shops and almost no DIYers have) used the correct way on proper ferrules (see before ref. frequency).

Without those - and they're expensive - decent soldering + adhesive lined heat shrink tubing will work better (in both cases, if either the crimp or the solder are withstanding mechanical stress, then you've done it wrong, by the by). If you're not 100% certain about the flux you're using remember to wash it off, isopropyl is fine.

Oh and, BT adapters. Yes, the cheap ones are crap. The problem is, I wish I could say the more expensive ones are much better, but they still are not, though they are less bad (quite measurably). If you're serious about anything there needs to be no BT involved.
 
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Old Jan 9, 2021 | 02:12 PM
  #204  
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@lfabio Good to see you back sir, if even for a short duration.

Could you do us a favor and post up a link and/or part number or model number of a set of "real crimpers" for those that are wondering.
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 08:10 AM
  #205  
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I should do my own research and read the spec but I'm lazy. Can this thing handle more than 1 camera input?
 
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Old Jan 10, 2021 | 08:18 AM
  #206  
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Originally Posted by FordTruckNoob
I should do my own research and read the spec but I'm lazy. Can this thing handle more than 1 camera input?
Yes.

The A6 Pro has rear camera in and video in yellow RCA inputs. If you were going to use a camera that is powered via USB with it's own storage, then there are 3 rear ports available. The S8 or other models might be configured differently regarding the RCA video input ports in the rear, so that should be investigated before any money changes accounts.

 
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Old Jan 15, 2021 | 01:07 PM
  #207  
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@Sous bear with me, I will do. I need to find a place that sells them, mine came from a friend who does this for a living, who is obviously not a repeatable source.
 
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Old Jan 16, 2021 | 10:15 PM
  #208  
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The REALLY NICE AMP tool is here : https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connec...ool/dp/01C4687 - you can buy it for a little less, but it's still pretty close to $1,000.

This is a cheaper alternative: https://shop.marinehowto.com/product...nal-crimp-tool

Despite what Maine Sail says, is not QUITE as good as the AMP tool (which costs $1,200 currently, actually), but it works very well with good, heat shrink terminals and he sells it in the $140s + shipping.

Mind, he's usually right a lot more often than I am ... but in this case he's being a bit optimistic. I will not comment on the DIY-HST tool.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 05:49 AM
  #209  
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Originally Posted by lfabio
Just popping in to say: the story on crimping vs. soldering is not quite as simple as it was made out to be in the last few posts.

95% of crimps are worse than a half decent soldering job because both the ferrules and the tools used are inadequate. You CAN make excellent crimps that CAN be better than soldering with real crimpers (which very few shops and almost no DIYers have) used the correct way on proper ferrules (see before ref. frequency).

Without those - and they're expensive - decent soldering + adhesive lined heat shrink tubing will work better (in both cases, if either the crimp or the solder are withstanding mechanical stress, then you've done it wrong, by the by). If you're not 100% certain about the flux you're using remember to wash it off, isopropyl is fine.

Oh and, BT adapters. Yes, the cheap ones are crap. The problem is, I wish I could say the more expensive ones are much better, but they still are not, though they are less bad (quite measurably). If you're serious about anything there needs to be no BT involved.
@Sous , this reminds me of a conversation we had over text.
 
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Old Jan 17, 2021 | 12:17 PM
  #210  
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Originally Posted by SkySkiJason
I have a few of these POS’s. (in reference to a clone ELM327 BT to DLC adapter previously mentioned up thread) Either they never worked or would not work reliably. I was using them with Torque Pro. Have not tried other programs. For a long time I thought it was TP that sucked (shutting off, losing connection and even shutting the truck off). I wonder how many people having trouble with TP are using a junk dongle like this?

I do not recommend them...
What then, do you recommend?

And not just SSJ, but everyone?

On second thought, rather than sidetrack Sous's Android Head Unit thread, will everyone please post your specific and current recommendations of known good, better, or best ELM327 dongles (as well as known bad) over on this revived ELM327 thread , where your recommendations will be directly on topic?

Thanks in advance!

Now back to Android Head Units....
 
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