Spent the last decade or so here in CA. However, I think it originally came from Wisconsin
More pics of the rust here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...epairable.html
I hope it's fixable on the cheap, one body shop is quoting $7k to fix rust and repaint the truck. Definitely don't want to spend that kind of cash.
My goal was to fix the mechanical gremlins, grind and primer the rust, fix sagging headliner, shoot cheap paint, and run it as a work truck. If it seriously needs thousands in rust repair, not sure how I feel about proceeding.

 

AArrrrgh! Sorry to see that!

 

A trusted mechanic came out last night to take a quick look. Of course, the truck cranked up no problem in the cold lol. It also wasn't misfiring too badly. He agreed with forum consensus and thinks the compression sounds normal. He's the second mechanic to suspect bad/dirty injectors. He recommended using Archoil oil and fuel additives and putting mileage on the truck to see if the misfire will clear up. His logic was that it's cheaper and easier to try the additives before shimming or replacing injectors. Just ordered both additives for like $70 off Amazon.

Apart from that, he said the roof rust is gonna cost me a thousand bucks easily. Not sure what to do regarding the rust and paint at this point. Maybe just grinding it out, putting primer, and using OEM rattle can paint to touch up the whole truck.

He also mentioned that the play in the steering is likely from the power steering box dying out, and the electrical gremlins are going to be a pain in the *** to figure out. It's just the 4WD for the most part, so it's not pressing. Finally, he thinks the tambourine rattle is coming from somewhere along the exhaust. I'm thinking it might have leaking up-pipes or something, since smoke seemingly coming from the bottom of the engine on drivers side.

 

Today’s new developments:

https://imgur.com/a/IJDz7eI
misfire became less severe after I kicked the gas, still unusual


https://imgur.com/a/243qrC1

New smoke from under hood. You can also hear the rattling/clanking noise, along with a new odd sound.

 

That rough idle sounds very similar to when my IDM went bad and also when my UCVH melted. Odd it clears out with a lil acceleration. Every time you get that truck started I would be running toruqe pro or what ever app you have and be monitoring the ICP value. Im interested in the PSI it had while the truck had that rough idle

 

Just to address one issue, the loose power steering. Lay down and watch the various bits of steering linkage while a helper turns the wheel back and forth for a while. You may find a worn out tie rod or something. On mine the tie rod at the pitman arm has worn out and loosened twice, no idea why.

Also the steering box can be adjusted. On top of it is a allen headed bolt secured by a lock nut. 4.5 mm allen and 16mm nut IIRC. Take a can of brake cleaner to the top since the allen is usually filled with dirt. Insert the allen wrench and note where the wrench is pointing. Keep ahold of the allen and break the nut loose. Turn the allen a quarter turn tighter, then lock down the nut again w/o letting the allen turn. Which is harder than it sounds imo. Drive and see if steering has tightened up. Lather rinse and repeat until you sneak up on the right adjustment.

If the steering binds up when you turn full lock you need to back off the adjustment.

Or maybe all the adjustment has already been dialled in and the box is just done.

Also do not use power steering fluid in the pump, it takes ATF like Mercon V.

 

ICP sensor is dirty, I believe it has oil in it. Unplugging doesn’t make a huge difference. I have FORScan Lite for Android, do you know if that will pull the values?

I had read about adjusting the steering box. I will investigate further once I can actually drive it. Dumb question, but do the brakes and steering run off the same system?

So far, I’ve changed engine oil/filter, under hood fuel filter, and intake air filter. Also added coolant to the system. Still need to do the following:

1. Trans/Torque Converter fluid/filter change
2. Front and Rear diff seal and oil change
3. Transfer case fluid change
4. Coolant system flush
5. Brake system flush
6. Steering fluid flush?
7. Potentially Glow plugs?
8. Need to get recall for CPS and Cruise system done
9. Brake Pads, rotors/drums, calipers, tires, Parking brake?
10. A left turn signal bulb and a third brake light bulb are out, could those be causing some GEM codes?

Tested all the fuses under hood and dashboard, all were good. Didn’t have a chance to pull and test every relay. 4wd still not working and radio making this odd noise on its own. Not sure if it’s a GEM thing or perhaps dirt/corrosion inside the cassette player.

https://imgur.com/a/UrKjD4n

I’m sure there’s plenty of other deferred maintenance items needed, please let me know what I’m missing.

 

If the ICP has oil in it, it needs to be replaced. Genuine Ford or IH. They are more expensive but cheaper aftermarket sensors have a high failure rate.

FORScan can read that. Want to view PIDs for IPR duty cycle and ICP psi. Duty cycle will be 10%-ish at idle and climb smoothly as you put the skinny pedal down. Max DC is 65% and it should not get there. If the wire to the ICP sensor is removed the truck will use a default value of 700 psi. That way the truck can run even with a bad sensor. PSI will be 500-ish at idle and max out in the 3000 range.

And yep, the power steering pump also supplies hydraulic power to the brakes, called a hydroboost system.

That noise from the radio sounds like the cassette mechanism is confused. If it makes that noise while turned off I'd pull the fuse. It will drain the batteries and you need good batteries on these trucks.

 

Just sent it off to a Powerstroke specialist shop. I think it’s about time to have a professional take a look. It’s 100 degrees outside and I got sunburned just trying to change the turn signal bulbs (previous owner switched the screws with bolts and misaligned everything).

He won’t charge me for diagnosis if he ends up doing the repairs. Otherwise, he’ll charge around an hour of labor @ $140 per hour. He said diagnosis usually takes him less than an hour regardless, so it’s a fair deal in my eyes. Now we wait to hear back.

 

I can understand the frustration. Sometimes I do that myself. If you would, get a diagnoses from the shop and share it with us before you give the go ahead. We're curious what they find. Also, we may be able to advise you what direction to go, if you want.

 

If he gets a printout of the codes, share that. My sad story 13 years ago was of a failed IDM, but the tech told me injectors. The printout included all the codes, and a troubleshooting path to follow. Had I understood it (shared with this forum) I would have saved almost $2k.

 

I will definitely share his findings with y'all for a second opinion. It's also good to share in case someone else has a similar problem.
I called him yesterday while they were unloading it from the tow truck. Just based on the sound, he suspected injectors, wires, or IDM. Waiting to hear back.

 

Update: he's lifting the truck up and will give me a full rundown today or tomorrow. He says everything will be preliminary, since more issues will probably pop up once the truck is drivable. Estimating $10,000 to get it mechanically solid, $20,000 to get it like-new mechanically and cosmetically. I definitely was expecting a couple grand in repairs, not trying to spend anywhere near $10,000.

Based on his short test drive, the truck doesn't steer well and has a lack of power.

So far, from inspection:
1. Suspect injectors. He can replace injectors (using OEM remanufactured), glow plugs, UVCH, etc. for around $4k. I think I'll try Archoil and/or shim kit before going down that route. I thought all that stuff could be replaced in an hour or two? Labor cost sounds high.
2. CCV was not connected, which was causing the under-hood smoke. He doesn't see any blowby.
3. Brakes have pads, but rotors should be resurfaced since it's been sitting for so long.
4. Rear diff clearly leaking, unknown whether gears sustained damage
5. Center support bearing is shot
6. One front shock was disconnected (!)
7. Front suspension is totally original, components probably need replacement. Quoted ball joints at $2,500 to give me an idea of how much this might cost.
8. Exhaust clunking from somewhere, investigating further.
9. Needs tires for sure
10. Still hasn't addressed non-working 4x4 or electrical issues

I'm at a difficult crossroad right now. I have nowhere near $10,000 or $20,000 for this project truck. I was trying to get it mechanically straight and cosmetically acceptable closer to $5,000, all-in. Figured it might need $1,000 injectors, full fluid/filter/gasket change closer to $500, couple of old components needing replacement factor $1,000, and rust repair/rattle can repaint $1,000.

 

I am sitting down for dinner so I don't have time to write a response, but I will soon.

I will leave you with this though....

SETTLE THE DEBT OF $140 AND GET YOUR TRUCK BACK ASAP...

 

That is all.