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I'm going to look into having the paint/bodywork done in Mexico. My buddy needs his coupe painted, we'll just tow it behind the truck and have them do both vehicles
You’ll have to remove that windshield to see how bad the problem is.
MAYBE you can just spot weld some holes up, but likely some parts of the windshield frame will need cut out and replaced.
Your plan is not bad.
Lets figure out why its not rinning good first.
You can start by checking UVCH’s and doing the $0.52 mod. Then swapping injectors around and if the problems follow the injectors we can be reasonably sure New injectors will fix it.
Then, we’ll address up-pipes, intake, etc.
We bought this truck at an auction with a blown up 7.3 for <$3k. Then, swapped in a 114k mile engine, Stage 1.5 injectors, van turbo with 4+4 compressor wheel, chip, gauges, tires, etc.
These are 285/75/16 tires with 2” spacers in the rear. I prefer 255/85/16 and no spacers on my dually.
This is not the van turbo we used. I rebuilt a bunch of turbos last year and powder and ceramic coated them these colors.....
This engine came from a pusher school bus. (Oil pan sump was in the ‘front’ among other oddities) Only 114k miles. Wish I could find a barn full of these.....
I'd disconnect the batteries until you can get it dried out, and under a roof.
It no-started again. The mechanic is pulling it inside and pulling trans/diff covers to check for damage. I need to find a way to stop the leak until I can get the rust repaired. It’s gonna sit outside, so I’ll probably throw some tape and tarp over it.
Mechanic was more than fair with his evaluation of the truck. Quoted using OEM parts and realistic labor rates, just a lot to swallow at once. He’s gonna service the transmission and rear diff before we take it home, since they’re already open. Gonna have the body/glass guy take a look at the rust.
In short, in its current state, the truck needs:
1. Injectors. Recommended changing UVCH, glow plugs, etc. preventively while doing the injectors.
2. Full front suspension rebuild (everything is original)
3. Shocks all around
4. Rear brake resurfacing
5. Center support bearing replacement
6. Front diff reseal/service
7. Transfer case service
8. Tracking down a potential oil leak
9. Fixing GEM related issues (basically non working 4wd)
10. Finding that god damn rattle. Thinks it’s along the front of the exhaust. Hopefully an aftermarket exhaust fixes it
Rebuilt injectors are $1225 for stock or Stage 1 and have a ‘lifetime warranty’. With glow plugs, oil change and labor that’s $1750 out the door here.
I use XRF Ball joints and tIe rod end kits ~$600 in parts.
Why are you changing the exhaust?
These trucks all need up-pipes by now, surprised that is not on the list.
I think he previously mentioned the up-pipes leaking, should probably add that to the list. He also thinks it has a slight oil leak, maybe from dipstick tube, but nothing serious. Mostly just seepage. Threw the idea around about rebuilding HPOP proactively at some point, but definitely my last priority.
Obviously incurred some extra costs having him pull the trans and rear diff covers, but the rear axle looked pretty bad from outside. I wasn’t sure if it was leaking, since it was saturated with oil and coated in some other mystery substance. Now that I think about it, the old motor sat in the bed for quite some time, and it must have leaked through the trailer hole in the bed. The truck has a date with degreaser in its future.
I would change the exhaust after all the repairs are done just because it’s pretty rusted. I inspected the truck underneath and it’s pretty clean. Cab corners are intact, etc.
Truck is back in my hands. Put some Archoil in the oil. CCT shows misfires on 1, 3, 4, 8. Gonna try putting some mileage on it tonight to see if the misfire clears. Will also see if it cold cranks tomorrow.
Mechanic took me on a test drive. Truck shifts pretty damn hard, and it has a bad shake/vibration (most noticeable in steering) around 4th/OD. Not sure if the problem started after trans service or if it was pre-existing. He suspected that the torque converter might be going out. It also clunks when putting it in/out of gear.
Could this be related to the 3rd brake light being burnt out? Perhaps it's not engaging the torque converter properly? I just popped in a replacement 3rd brake light bulb. Cruise control and 4wd do not work. Dash board lights work, but neither will engage when you try using them. Or maybe it's from the exhaust pressure control valve fault?
Mechanic took me on a test drive. Truck shifts pretty damn hard, and it has a bad shake/vibration (most noticeable in steering) around 4th/OD. Not sure if the problem started after trans service or if it was pre-existing. He suspected that the torque converter might be going out. It also clunks when putting it in/out of gear.
Check your double cardan aka CV joints also.
Originally Posted by Calidiesel73red
Cruise control and 4wd do not work. Dash board lights work, but neither will engage when you try using them. Or maybe it's from the exhaust pressure control valve fault?
Took three tries to hard-start today. Then it was sputtering, RPMs surging. Had to give it gas to get it to straighten out again. Ton of top-end oil caked, but I think ICP is leaking.
Somewhat off-topic. I understand if you disconnect the ICP sensor (or it fails?), the PCM will use 700psi, but I've always thought of this at idle. Can you drive on that? I mean there's a difference between revving an engine in neutral and trying to move 7000 pounds.
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