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As said above, work on only the engine at this point. Focus on that! Getting the engine right could fix many of the other issues. Once that is solid you will know if spending more coin is worth it.
We did a preliminary inspection of the fuel pump/pressure this weekend, but we're gonna mess around with it some more. Also going to pull off VCs and switch around the injectors to see if CCT codes change subsequently. If so, I'll order new injectors and pray that fixes multiple issues. If things start to pile up, I will sell the truck as-is.
Transmission fluid smells kinda funny (maybe burnt?), but it doesn't look burnt (it's pretty much all pink). Any ideas?
I think I'd do the the Rosewood Injectors budget rebuild, should cost around $600-$1185 depending on the work needed.
I'm open to shimming them too. Just need them to work!
Again focus on the engine. That is the heart of the truck.
Now that I said that...
I think you said the steering got tight at end of lock, hard far L or R. That says the steering box is too tight. On top of the box is an allen screw held tight by a nut. Spray it with brake clean to get a good look at it. From memory I'll say 4.5 mm allen and 19mm box end (or crows foot) wrench. Back off the nut so the screw is adjustable and clock the allen CCW a full 360*, and lock it down with the nut. Steering should feel loose and free thru the entire range of motion. Cuz it's 'Murican by God.
If the steering box it too tight as in your example is will grind itself to death pretty soon.
Again focus on the engine. That is the heart of the truck.
Now that I said that...
I think you said the steering got tight at end of lock, hard far L or R. That says the steering box is too tight. On top of the box is an allen screw held tight by a nut. Spray it with brake clean to get a good look at it. From memory I'll say 4.5 mm allen and 19mm box end (or crows foot) wrench. Back off the nut so the screw is adjustable and clock the allen CCW a full 360*, and lock it down with the nut. Steering should feel loose and free thru the entire range of motion. Cuz it's 'Murican by God.
If the steering box it too tight as in your example is will grind itself to death pretty soon.
My experience is an overtightened steering gear will not return-to-center.
Getiing tight at full lock could be rusty/sticky front axleshaft u-joints.
Current plan of action:
1. Replace ICP sensor
2. Shim injectors if ICP doesn't resolve issues
3. Take the truck to Ford to get recall work done
4. Reattach front shock
5. Reinstall rear glass center piece and basically fix the windshield leak
6. Re-center the steering wheel
7. Get it detailed
8. Sell it as a running/driving work truck
Recent bull**** has killed my motivation to put more time and money into it. Hoping to sell it and recoup my investments, or trade it for something interesting. I'd love to find an unmolested F250 4x4 7.3 short bed.
Current plan of action:
1. Replace ICP sensor
2. Shim injectors if ICP doesn't resolve issues
3. Take the truck to Ford to get recall work done
4. Reattach front shock
5. Reinstall rear glass center piece and basically fix the windshield leak
6. Re-center the steering wheel
7. Get it detailed
8. Sell it as a running/driving work truck
Recent bull**** has killed my motivation to put more time and money into it. Hoping to sell it and recoup my investments, or trade it for something interesting. I'd love to find an unmolested F250 4x4 7.3 short bed.
After all you have gone through with this truck, i think that's a fine plan, nothing worse then having to wrench on anything everyday just to keep it running!
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