Hey everyone,

Recently picked up a 1999 F350 7.3 4x4 dually crew cab. Truck had been sitting forever, and had its fair share of issues. When trying to start it, it demonstrates the same symptoms as the beginning of this video:


The starter kinda lopes/fluctuates and doesn’t turn over. Was also burning a fair amount of white/grayish smoke. Changed the oil/filter, air filter, and fuel filters. If you hit it with a touch of starting fluid, it’ll eventually turn on, but runs rough like there’s a misfire (shaking badly). Idle isn’t all over the place and no check engine lights. Diesel tech took a quick look and thought it might need new injectors, but I’m terrified of it having a catastrophic failure like the video above.

I believe it’s had the motor swapped, along with GEM/IDM swapped out at some point due to cab water intrusion. 4wd also doesn’t illuminate/work, if that means anything. I put a ping pong ball on the oil fill hole and it did not shoot off. Probably experienced dusting in the past, old owners ran the **** out of it and there’s even dust in the interior air vents.I’d appreciate any ideas. Terrified of the prospect of needing a new motor.

 

Welcome to the FTE! It sounds like you have some troubleshooting to do going forward.

The non-functioning 4WD is not a related problem to the engine not starting and/or running poorly.

Does the SES/CEL come on during the bulb test when first turning the ignition to on?




Normally if there were a problem with the IDM or GEM there would be a code in the PCM and "typically" the SES light would be on constant.

If I were in your position and was pretty sure about a dead spot in the rotation of the engine, I would verify that the engine is in running condition by doing a compression test before proceeding. You can browse through the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder for options available to you in addition to a compression test which is linked below.

Compression Test Procedure

I would suggest that you do the very simple check for blow by which consists of setting the oil cap upside down on the oil fill tube while the truck is running. If the cap blows off that is an indication of blow by. If the cap stays put or rattles off that is an indication of very low or no blow by.

Although, I do NOT support the use of starter fluid or ether because with our glow plug system you can grenade the engine. So, that is why I suggested going right to the compression test which can be done with very little investment in parts/tools.

I would NOT purchase any parts or sensors and certainly not injectors until you verify the engine is OK. Once you get the compression measurements sorted out, we can help you accomplish the next troubleshooting steps or to help you find a good source for a rebuilt engine near you.

This is just my advice and others will be along shortly with other words of advice.

 

I appreciate your swift response. No CEL comes on, but the Service engine light came on once (then turned off). Haven’t had the chance to do a legit compression test and I haven’t bought autoenginuity yet (don’t wanna waste $400 if the truck is already f*****).

We tried switching battery out with an F-250’s and it didn’t start. I’m also not sure about the status of the CPS (not sure if it was changed under the recall).

I did the oil cap test, and it didn’t shoot the cap off. The cap just gradually vibrated off. Trying to see if I can find a tech to do the compression test. Otherwise, I’ll have to grab some cheap equipment from Harbor Freight and do it myself. Ford dealer wants $360 for hard start diagnosis and $360 to do a PPI. Sounds ridiculous, but there’s no diesel shops within a reasonable distance from the truck’s location (near Los Angeles).

 

Figure out your cranking and starting issues first. Low batteries or a weak starter will make the compression sound bad.
Bad glowplug system will make it hard to start and get white smoke/misfire cold.

Whats the temperature where your at?
Have you plugged in the block heater?

Charge both batteries and test them. Look for at least 750CCA each.
Make sure all battery connections are good. Check for resistance and/or voltage drop between Positive terminals. Do the same for negative terminals.

Test to confirm the Glow plug relay is functioning and battery voltage has a significant drop while glow plug relay is energized.
After the Block heater is plugged in for at least 4 hours (more if below freezing), confirmed good, fully charged batteries, hook up a jump pack or jumper cables from another car running.
Turn key to run, Confirm Wait to start light illuminates, wait 60 seconds confirming voltage guage has dropped below battery voltage and then crank.

Report back.
Don't use starter fluid.

 

You know it runs w/ ether so CPS likely isn't an issue.
Near LA shouldn't need block heater but it can't hurt.

Did you mean Batteries? Or Battery? does the truck have 2 batteries?

 

In SoCal ammend my starting advise above to 30 sec delay before cranking, not 60 sec.

 

Harbor freight won't have the proper adapter for 7.3 compression test.

This is the only one I've tried that had the correct threads, including a snap on one labeled specifically for 7.3.

 

@Calidiesel73red , Kbeefy has some really good questions and advice for you above. He knows what he is talking about and is very generous with his knowledge in getting people back on the road.

You don't need AE... There are much cheaper and better options out there available to you, check them out in the 7.3L PSD Tech Folder, which I also linked above. I also linked instructions and the right parts required to do a compression test, if you decide to go that route. You may not need AE or a compression test though based on what Kbeefy has written above.

I won't repeat some of the questions and statements Kbeefy has offered, but don't jump to an action like taking it to the dealer before talking through an issue here.

 

I haven't been touching the starter fluid other than moving it on/off the tow truck, don't want to make things worse. It's 72 degrees and sunny here, pretty much year-round. Not even sure if it has a block heater installed, since I didn't see the plug dangling anywhere. I will test/replace the batteries if necessary this weekend. Do I just need a normal multimeter for electrical testing?

Mine is a dual battery truck. I switched one of them with a known good battery from an F-250 to see if it would make a difference. It was hit/miss.

Noted.

The Amazon delivery time for the proper adaptor for the compression test is one month! Hopefully I can get it running before then.

Of course, I am grateful for all of your wonderful advice. Hate going to the stealership for anything, I'd rather DIY it with community knowledge. I had called the dealership before posting, just to see what the worst-case diagnostic scenario would cost me. Since we're in the middle of a pandemic, it's been hard to get a hold of anyone. I had to call three dealerships to even get a price quote.

If the startup issue gets resolved, I want to get a full inspection done on a full-size lift to see what maintenance has been deferred by previous owners. Unfortunately, many shops around me won't even take a diesel truck of this size, and just refer me back to the dealership.

 

I believe they all had block heaters. The cord may be missing, or still zip tied to the frame rail as it came from the factory. If the glow plugs are working correctly it's not necessary until below freezing.

You can do all the electrical tests with a multimeter except test the capacity of the batteries. Charge them both independently then take them anywhere that sells automotive batteries and they should test them for you for free.


In Sous link above there are directions for building your own adapter that will work with the HF stuff.

 

The dealership is hit or miss on finding a 7.3 guy anyways. These engines haven't been in a Ford in 17 years. Most of those guys have retired or moved to different shops by now.

 

Also, not sure if this is pertinent, but the first day we were trying to get it started, the exhaust had a very sweet smell that eventually dissipated (burning coolant?) The tech also added some seafoam to the fuel, but can't remember if it was that day or another day. I don't believe it's making that smell anymore.

 

You can find the block heater by looking just above the oil filter. In the side of the filter header, you should find the element and the dark orange cord.

 

Update: threw some new batteries in the truck and it eventually turns on (takes a while to crank.) However, there’s a pretty noticeable vibration/misfire at idle, less noticeable when you rev it. No obvious smoke coming out the tailpipe. Pulled the oil filler cap, and it steadily puffs, but it doesn’t shoot the cap off or anything (just vibrates off).

Removed intake and found a fair amount of sludge inside, washed it out thoroughly. Turbo didn’t look trashed, but hard to get a photo. Turbo wheel spins, but I was scared to mess with it too much.

I’m very concerned about dusting. The filter was never changed, housing is loose, and the truck has been run through a ton of dirt. 100 degrees outside, called it a day. Perhaps needs Archoil?

 

Fantastic. Have you driven it? If it was sitting a long time the high pressure oil system could have bled down, all the cranking could have introduced air into the system.
If you can, take it for a drive. I would stay close to home. The harder you push it, the longer the injectors stay open and the more completely they get refilled/purged/bled.

Oil in the intake is normal. You should check for axial play in the turbo impeller (side to side). Some in and out is not a big deal, but up-down or side-side is bad.

Archoil is more a 6.0 thing, but some have reported success using it in 7.3. I would iron out all the bugs before trying snake oil.

Speaking of oil, what kind did you use? If you didn't know, oil is even more critical to 7.3s than other motors. It is used as a hydraulic fluid to fire the injectors, and they have super tight tolerances that get eaten up buy dirty oil and fuel. Synthetic 5w40 instead of conventional 15w40 helps alot of starting issues, but it's probably not an issue in SoCal.

Now that you can start it, it's time to scan the ECU and check for current, stored, and pending codes. Bear in mind that the low batteries will have messed with the computer pretty bad. May be best to wipe it clean and drive it to see what comes back. After warming it up and driving it to see if you can shake that misfire a buzz test and a contribution test might help you determine if you actually have an injector issue.

As far as dusting, a compression test might tell you. Or you can fix runnability issues and see if it will do what you need it to as is.

Is it a CA Immisions truck? They have a different glow plug controller.