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I assume it would start up just fine if it’s plugged in. I’d be afraid to plug it into my house, it’s a sketchy truck. It usually turns on easier once it’s warm. I dug around and couldn’t even find the block heater plug.
The heater is directly above the oil filter housing. The heater's there, I can pretty much guarantee it. The cord is likely missing/never installed. It was an option that many in warm climates never bought.
Check the Under Valve Cover Harnesses, the plugs at the valve covers. Have you ohmed the glow plugs to see if they work? The Glow Plugs could be junk too. Don't worry about changing the oil right now. If the additive put in it causes it to foam, that shouldn't happen until it gets warmed up, unless it's some type of oil thickener like Lucas or STP oil treatment.
This requires pulling the valve covers off, right? I haven't pulled them yet. I think a little bit of seafoam was added to fuel, along with some Prolong Engine Treatment added to the oil (maybe half the container). I didn't add it in, for the record.
I am trying to remove the engine harness plug above the right side valve cover, the huge one that has a bolt. I need to remove it's outer cover, then remove the bolt to get it off, right? I'd like to see if the harness might be chafed.
Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
The first time it cranked and hit, yes that sounded smooth like it should. Then, it sounded like it was losing voltage. If the voltage drops too much, the injectors won't fire. I can't remember what that number is exactly. Have you pulled the plug on the top of the High Pressure Oil Reservoir to see how much oil is in it before you start cranking?
My biggest fear is a lack of compression from severe dusting/damage, because the truck was basically run without an intake. I assumed it started losing voltage from the cranking. I also have to use an old Android phone with a bad battery to read the codes, so I'm relying on a power inverter to keep the phone running. The Oil Reservoir was topped up during the last oil change.
Originally Posted by CampSpringsJohn
The heater is directly above the oil filter housing. The heater's there, I can pretty much guarantee it. The cord is likely missing/never installed. It was an option that many in warm climates never bought.
My biggest fear is a lack of compression from severe dusting/damage, because the truck was basically run without an intake. I assumed it started losing voltage from the cranking. I also have to use an old Android phone with a bad battery to read the codes, so I'm relying on a power inverter to keep the phone running. The Oil Reservoir was topped up during the last oil change.
Will look for it.
The HPOP (high pressure oil reservoir) should be about an inch from the top. You don't really top it off unless it's low. It has a continuous supply of oil being supplied to it from the oil pump that supplies oil to the rest of the motor. Anytime you pull that plug, it should be about an inch from the top. DO NOT REMOVE IT WHILE RUNNING, OR WHILE CRANKING UNLESS YOU WANT AN OIL SHOWER! A whole lot of oil flows through it.
There should be 2 solenoids in the engine valley. They look like starter solenoids. One is a relay for the heater in the intake, (that aluminum X thing that has all the hoses attached to it) and the other is for the glow plugs. Follow the wires to see where they go. Ignore the one going to the heater in the intake. The one going to the glow plugs is the one that's important. One big wire (post) is always hot whether the ignition is on or not. Find it and check it. The other big post has wires going to both heads to send power to the glow plugs. What I do if my truck is having trouble starting when cold is take an old screwdriver and arc across the 2 big terminals, and hold it there for a good 30 seconds. The screwdriver gets real hot, just to warn you. After 30 seconds, I jump in the cab and try to start it, ignoring the WTS light, assuming it came on.
I have a 1999 F350 with over 400,000 miles on it. It has new GP's and a new relay. It still acts rough when cold.The injectors are remans with over 150,000 miles on them. Having a rough running 7.3 isn't uncommon, especially if it's been sitting a while.
Good lord what a long day. I checked the GPR (drivers side big connection and ground) with a multimeter. It was consistently reading around 12, whether engine on or off. Not sure if I did that test wrong.
Found the block heater, cleaned it and ensured that it still works.
Found a small nick in that harness plug I posted above, wrapped it with electrical tape. Engine starts when warm, but misfires (albeit less severely than before). CCT flagging cylinders 1 and 3 as problematic.
I know I caused an information overload above, I was just dumping my findings all day.
To summarize current issues:
1. Hard start/no start when cold (Tach doesn’t really move when cranking).
2. Misfiring once started, raising codes from cylinders one and three. Also raising codes for intake heater and Exhaust, previously mentioned.
3. Noticeable amount of smoke coming from driver’s side of motor, perhaps from the bottom end
4. Constant clanging noise, much like a tambourine, especially at idle. Guessing something is loose along exhaust or transmission related?
5. Various codes being pulled from GEM, attaching below. 4wd does not work at all, 4wd dash lights do work.
c1446
b1575
p1867
p1812
b1462
p1876
Have you inspected the valve cover harness yet? There is one on each side going into the valve covers. The connections are known to melt. If all is well there and they look good, pop the valve covers to make sure the connections to the injectors are still connected.
Have you inspected the valve cover harness yet? There is one on each side going into the valve covers. The connections are known to melt. If all is well there and they look good, pop the valve covers to make sure the connections to the injectors are still connected.
So I'm trying to figure this out.
Do I need to do it like this guy?
Fair number of codes there. Clear them and see what comes back. They could be 10 years old.
One way to check function of the GPR is to bridge the big lugs with a hefty screwdriver for 30 seconds or so before trying to start. That will energize the GPs directly, and if it helps starting you have a solid clue the GPR is bad. Be careful while bridging the lugs, fair amount of amperage is passing thru the screwdriver, be careful and deliberate. Before replacing the GPR take a pic of the wires so you get them right on install.
Checking ohms on the GPs and injectors can be done without the fancy pigtail in the video. Pull the connector off the UVCH and put the test probes to the pins inside. See pic. Write down the readings. Inspect pins for melting/burning.
There was no P1316 code that is common for loose UVCH connectors, but having a code for cyl 1 and 3 can indicate the same thing. That's just FYI, sort thru the other tests first. If you're bored and want to know more about the UVCH issues check out 50 cent mod.
I will clear the codes again and re-scan in the early morning. My friend's friend is an International diesel tech, and based on my description, he suspects the injectors are worn + some other electrical malady. He lives too far away to come help me out, though.
I spent all day messing with the truck today in the hundred degree heat. At this point, I might send it to the diesel mechanic if his diagnostic price is right. I need to get a lot of deferred maintenance done, along with a full blown inspection on a lift. Might as well have the mechanic chase down the misfire while he's at it (as long as he doesn't try to rip me off). Otherwise, I will continue the wild goose chase by myself.
I would not relegate engine diagnosis and repair to a mechanic unless you find someone like SSJ. There are too many horror stories of $$$$$$$$$ spent with no satisfaction. The 7.3 can be a bugger when it acts up but proper troubleshooting is not that hard. I have been following 100% here but did you perform the easy blow-by test of placing the oil fill cap upside down on on the fill tube? If it blows off with pressure you have a real problem but if it just sits there and rattles off you just have a nuisance that you need to track down.
I would not relegate engine diagnosis and repair to a mechanic unless you find someone like SSJ. There are too many horror stories of $$$$$$$$$ spent with no satisfaction. The 7.3 can be a bugger when it acts up but proper troubleshooting is not that hard. I have been following 100% here but did you perform the easy blow-by test of placing the oil fill cap upside down on on the fill tube? If it blows off with pressure you have a real problem but if it just sits there and rattles off you just have a nuisance that you need to track down.
Yes, it doesn't shoot off, it rattles off. However, the engine issue is no longer my biggest concern...
Truck wouldn't start today for me to run any tests, cold morning obviously. Mechanic gonna swing by after work to take a look.
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