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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:26 PM
  #31  
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Pulling codes P0263, P0269, P0272, P0476, and P0541. Running rough as hell and hard cold start today, no ether needed though.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 01:58 PM
  #32  
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https://imgur.com/a/hYBB7H9
buzz test
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 03:10 PM
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Don't use ether, the glow plugs will ignite it before top dead center and blow your engine apart.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 03:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Don't use ether, the glow plugs will ignite it before top dead center and blow your engine apart.
I had to use it lightly a couple times to get the truck out of the hole it was sitting in. Haven’t touched it since, hoping it’s not damaged.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 08:24 PM
  #35  
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P0263, P0269 & P0272 are cylinder codes on both sides of the engine. Check engine harness wiring, UVCH plugs and UVCH condition. Someone else will have better instructions than me.

Did you clear all the codes before pulling these? The hard cold start issues you were having could cause some false codes.

P0476 is related to the Exhaust back pressure sensor and tube, Common issue.

P0541 is an Intake Air Heater code. I wouldn't worry to much about that one in SoCal. Tons of people delete the heater.


I would focus on the P0263, P0269 & P0272. The rest are pretty irrelevant to rough running, those are the ones that could cost you a significant amount of money.
 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 08:50 PM
  #36  
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Dont run any cleaners or seafoam in a 7.3.. Too much stuff going on with the fuel and oil. Especially if they have been dirty in the past..

 
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Old May 10, 2020 | 10:26 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by kbeefy
P0263, P0269 & P0272 are cylinder codes on both sides of the engine. Check engine harness wiring, UVCH plugs and UVCH condition. Someone else will have better instructions than me.

Did you clear all the codes before pulling these? The hard cold start issues you were having could cause some false codes.

P0476 is related to the Exhaust back pressure sensor and tube, Common issue.

P0541 is an Intake Air Heater code. I wouldn't worry to much about that one in SoCal. Tons of people delete the heater.


I would focus on the P0263, P0269 & P0272. The rest are pretty irrelevant to rough running, those are the ones that could cost you a significant amount of money.
I cleared the codes before scanning. Cylinder 4 intermittently pops up as misfiring, the other cylinders are consistent misses. It also has a ton of other codes, but I think they’re all related to the GEM. I will scan the truck again and investigate tomorrow.

I towed the truck home today and washed it from top to bottom. There’s rust in the drivers footwell, mostly on the parking brake. I’m guessing it’s from the windshield leak. A lot of metal surfaces throughout the cabin (like seat rails) have also become corroded, perhaps from trapped moisture? It’s amazing how much abuse this truck has suffered. The tires have 2005 date codes and absolutely zero tread.

Other than the occasional rough idle and hard start, there’s a constant metal clanging noise, much like a tambourine. The exhaust is also quite loud, and the tailpipe has a constant puff puff puff puff that you can feel with your hand. Not really smoking, but it does smell. I can’t really identify the smell though.

Regarding the additives, do I need to change the oil immediately? Or can I wait until the next service interval.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 07:54 AM
  #38  
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Any photos of the truck? Resurrection threads are fun. I would change oil immediately and know you have a good baseline. Use Walmart Supertech diesel oil. It's a very good, albeit cheap oil until you get it all figured out. Then, if you want to, you can put "better" oil in there. Side note, I run ST and have for years. My truck sees a lot of work and Oil Analysis results have been stellar.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 12:40 PM
  #39  
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https://imgur.com/a/WVPFWkB

Video of me cranking it. Perhaps dead CPS? White smoke comes out but it won’t start. Sounded like it got close one time, but no luck.

If it turns on, it’ll usually run super rough until I kick the gas pedal. Then it’s a more steady misfire.

Compression-wise, does it sound like a steady crank? Will post up pics too!
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 01:22 PM
  #40  
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Managed to start it up after a couple more tries, the outside temp was also higher (60 vs 80 f). Idling rough and chattering.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 02:33 PM
  #41  
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Have you tried plugging it in for four hours before starting? There's a link in my signature that will take you to a page that will help with start issues.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 02:40 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by Walleye Hunter
Have you tried plugging it in for four hours before starting? There's a link in my signature that will take you to a page that will help with start issues.
I assume it would start up just fine if it’s plugged in. I’d be afraid to plug it into my house, it’s a sketchy truck. It usually turns on easier once it’s warm. I dug around and couldn’t even find the block heater plug.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 02:43 PM
  #43  
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The heater is in the block right near the oil filter. I'd try plugging it in and see what it does.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 03:12 PM
  #44  
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Check the Under Valve Cover Harnesses, the plugs at the valve covers. Have you ohmed the glow plugs to see if they work? The Glow Plugs could be junk too. Don't worry about changing the oil right now. If the additive put in it causes it to foam, that shouldn't happen until it gets warmed up, unless it's some type of oil thickener like Lucas or STP oil treatment.
 
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Old May 11, 2020 | 03:17 PM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Calidiesel73red
https://imgur.com/a/WVPFWkB

Video of me cranking it. Perhaps dead CPS? White smoke comes out but it won’t start. Sounded like it got close one time, but no luck.

If it turns on, it’ll usually run super rough until I kick the gas pedal. Then it’s a more steady misfire.

Compression-wise, does it sound like a steady crank? Will post up pics too!
The first time it cranked and hit, yes that sounded smooth like it should. Then, it sounded like it was losing voltage. If the voltage drops too much, the injectors won't fire. I can't remember what that number is exactly. Have you pulled the plug on the top of the High Pressure Oil Reservoir to see how much oil is in it before you start cranking?
 
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